Uncle99

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But my nitrite is 5
Forget nitrite.
If you used rock, sand, saltwater, heat, and flow with a bottle of Dr.Tims (or whatever) you were ready for fish easily in two weeks, regardless of the test results which sometimes are not fine enough to give low, low results.

Check nitrates and if higher than 50ppm, do a 50% water change and then add two fish.

Many reefers get way to tied up in the cycle stage.
 
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cameron_atkinson

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Is it an issue that I accidentally disturbed my sand bed while doing a water change? I turned off my filters and am waiting for the little particles to settle in scared I ruined my cycle
 
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cameron_atkinson

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Hi guys thought I would update you, I added a couple cheap corals for fun , they all are reacting differently. It’s been a day but here’s what’s going on:
- The Firestone Coral won’t extend all its polyps inside it
-My Blue Sympodium Coral won’t extend its polyps. Tried putting food on top but still nothing
-My Zoas ( down below) one is open but the other is completely closed

Thoughts?
IMG_5461.jpeg
 

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Garf

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Hi guys thought I would update you, I added a couple cheap corals for fun , they all are reacting differently. It’s been a day but here’s what’s going on:
- The Firestone Coral won’t extend all its polyps inside it
-My Blue Sympodium Coral won’t extend its polyps. Tried putting food on top but still nothing
-My Zoas ( down below) one is open but the other is completely closed

Thoughts?
IMG_5461.jpeg
There's a link to Randys DIY salinity solution in my signature, you could do that, unless you are using another means of calibration. I know its impossible for me to judge how bright your lights are from here, but you could dim them down for a few days, without consequence. The other big one to check is temperature, is that good?

Of course, they may be just sulking and you may need just to give them a little time.
 
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cameron_atkinson

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There's a link to Randys DIY salinity solution in my signature, you could do that, unless you are using another means of calibration. I know its impossible for me to judge how bright your lights are from here, but you could dim them down for a few days, without consequence. The other big one to check is temperature, is that good?

Of course, they may be just sulking and you may need just to give them a little time.
My Salinity is 1.028 and Temp is 75.6. I dimmed the light a big I will let you know how it goes
 

MnFish1

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IMG_5216.jpeg


I tested my ammonium and this was it
The way you have the card - I think overestimates your ammonia. The cap makes me wonder if there is any contact with your fingertip when mixing or another problem with the test. The ammonia results from the LFS (I assume) of 0.25 - does not match yours. Do you happen to have any done on the same day (i.e. check ammonia at home and LFS on the same day)
 

MnFish1

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PS - the problem I see here is that ammonia levels that high (>5 ppm) - which yours looks like - though I don't trust the lighting or the way you have the tube sitting in the card - may actually decrease multiplication of Dr. Tim's. However, since your ammonia is now 0.25 (assuming that one is correct) your free (toxic) NH3 is likely fine. That said - I would not add anything new without first making sure that the corals you have are doing 'better'. Note that some coral can actually utilize ammonia. One last thing - I noticed when using Dr. Tim's, the drop size is not always equivalent to the recommended dose (i.e. if you use the correct drops/volume - you can come out with > 5 ppm ammonia (total))
 

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