Cyano tried H2O2 for 7 days

Bruce Burnett

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So I had done the H2O2 test to see if what I has was cyano, it turned pink. I dosed 30ml peroxide 3% to my system twice a day. After one week I did not see any difference. My system is about 280-300 gallons, bare bottom, small amount of detritus in tank. Running calcium reactor, GFO, Reef Dynamics INS-450 skimmer, 2-Atlantik V2.1b led fixtures, recently added DIY Chaeto reactor, Sulfur reactor (still cycling), 4-jebao WP-60 wave pumps. DKH 9, calcium 450, Salinity 1.027, Temp 80 degrees F, PH 7.96-8.02, Phosphates read 0.00 Hana, Nitrates 2 Salifert. Some I can siphon out with the detritus but on the rocks some is in areas hard to reach with siphon. Since the peroxide did nothing before, I left it alone for a week just blowing it off and I am not up to siphoning out every single day physically. I had a mat that I got out last night put into white cup with some RO water. The water turned pink before I even added the peroxide. Added peroxide and this morning only about 8 hours later water was not pink but light red, cyano was floating just below surface and was green in color.
@twilliard and anyone else what is max dose of peroxide I can safely use with peppermint shrimp and fish. I am looking for any help before I try Chemi-clean or red slime remover, (which one is preferred and why).
 

Diesel

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So you did the test right?
And you did it with RO water right?

Take a portion of that red mat you see in your tank and place it into a cup with about 2 cups of tank water.
Now add 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide
Over the course of several hours you may start to see a change in the water and the color of your sample.
If in fact it is the common cyanobacteria and not spirulina the water will start to turn a pink color and the sample with start to turn a green color.
Now if it is spirulina there will be no change as h2o2 has little effect on the individual cells.

Read again ;)
Have a good day! :)
 

twilliard

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So I had done the H2O2 test to see if what I has was cyano, it turned pink. I dosed 30ml peroxide 3% to my system twice a day. After one week I did not see any difference. My system is about 280-300 gallons, bare bottom, small amount of detritus in tank. Running calcium reactor, GFO, Reef Dynamics INS-450 skimmer, 2-Atlantik V2.1b led fixtures, recently added DIY Chaeto reactor, Sulfur reactor (still cycling), 4-jebao WP-60 wave pumps. DKH 9, calcium 450, Salinity 1.027, Temp 80 degrees F, PH 7.96-8.02, Phosphates read 0.00 Hana, Nitrates 2 Salifert. Some I can siphon out with the detritus but on the rocks some is in areas hard to reach with siphon. Since the peroxide did nothing before, I left it alone for a week just blowing it off and I am not up to siphoning out every single day physically. I had a mat that I got out last night put into white cup with some RO water. The water turned pink before I even added the peroxide. Added peroxide and this morning only about 8 hours later water was not pink but light red, cyano was floating just below surface and was green in color.
@twilliard and anyone else what is max dose of peroxide I can safely use with peppermint shrimp and fish. I am looking for any help before I try Chemi-clean or red slime remover, (which one is preferred and why).
Do you monitor ORP? Did it drop at least 200 points? The 1 per 10 is the min as the biology of a tank is not the same from one to the other.
The issue with H2O2 and inverts is not about the amount added to the tank, it is about direct exposure from a H2O2 cloud. That is why it has to be dispersed while adding to the tank.
 
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Bruce Burnett

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Do you monitor ORP? Did it drop at least 200 points? The 1 per 10 is the min as the biology of a tank is not the same from one to the other.
The issue with H2O2 and inverts is not about the amount added to the tank, it is about direct exposure from a H2O2 cloud. That is why it has to be dispersed while adding to the tank.
Just so there is no confusion, I redid the test just now, in about 12 oz tank water added 1ml H2O2 and water started turning pink under 10 min. I do not currently monitor ORP and was planning on getting a monitor when I have the money. Did not read that to figure the correct dose was to get an ORP drop of 200. Not having an ORP meter is there another way of reaching the correct amount? I am sure there is a point where you can add to much H2O2 to a system even in high flow areas, I add to my overflow. The lack of enough drop in ORP may explain why not all my Zoas close up and most are open again in about half an hour.
 

twilliard

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It does sound like the dose is too little for the biology of the tank. I use ORP as a guideline with members who monitor ORP. I would increase the dose to 50ML. Keep in mind it's about the biology of the water that determines the dose. With no ORP you will have to go by what the tank tells you.
 
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Bruce Burnett

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Here is a picture after 30 min. The ORP analogy makes sense. A previous tank I owned I was able to run ozone with Red Sea 200 full blast into my skimmer no carbon 24/7. This tank I can't run my ozotech on low with carbon for 2 hours with out effecting the fish so it is put away until I can get ORP controller, if I can even use the ozone.

cyano.jpg
 
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Bruce Burnett

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It does sound like the dose is too little for the biology of the tank. I use ORP as a guideline with members who monitor ORP. I would increase the dose to 50ML. Keep in mind it's about the biology of the water that determines the dose. With no ORP you will have to go by what the tank tells you.
So instead of 50ml I went with 100 ml twice a day for two days and my cup coral and birdsnest showed some signs of distress so I dropped it down to 90 ml. After 7 days it did not appear to make any difference it was still spreading even after vacuuming it out. I did 3 days with lights out and continued the peroxide. It was all gone but a small spot but after 2 days it is gone in the morning and back by the evening but I also shortened my light cycle otherwise it would be worse. My nutrients are not high, phosphate 0, nitrates <2, I can go over a week before my glass even starts to get any film on it. What was found with the peroxide resistant cyano and how to get rid of it? Based on the peroxide test every time the solution comes out pink but 1ml to 12oz of tank water is a lot stronger than 1ml to 3 gallons.
 

twilliard

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So instead of 50ml I went with 100 ml twice a day for two days and my cup coral and birdsnest showed some signs of distress so I dropped it down to 90 ml. After 7 days it did not appear to make any difference it was still spreading even after vacuuming it out. I did 3 days with lights out and continued the peroxide. It was all gone but a small spot but after 2 days it is gone in the morning and back by the evening but I also shortened my light cycle otherwise it would be worse. My nutrients are not high, phosphate 0, nitrates <2, I can go over a week before my glass even starts to get any film on it. What was found with the peroxide resistant cyano and how to get rid of it? Based on the peroxide test every time the solution comes out pink but 1ml to 12oz of tank water is a lot stronger than 1ml to 3 gallons.
That cyano in the cup would turn green if it is cylindrospermum. Need a scope shot of this one
 
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Bruce Burnett

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That cyano in the cup would turn green if it is cylindrospermum. Need a scope shot of this one
the water turns pink and the mat turns green and starts to float. Right now I don't have enough mat to pull out and don't own a scope. The three days lights off made the biggest difference.
 

twilliard

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the water turns pink and the mat turns green and starts to float. Right now I don't have enough mat to pull out and don't own a scope. The three days lights off made the biggest difference.
Sure sounds like you have a mix of spirulina in there. This bacteria does not like lighting change.
 
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Bruce Burnett

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Sure sounds like you have a mix of spirulina in there. This bacteria does not like lighting change.
I have some red slime remover coming, will try that since I have it reduced from doing the 3 days lights off. If red slime remover does not work then I will try a dose of chemiclean. I hate doing large water changes, why I was doing the peroxide. I can say the 3 days of lights off sure seemed to brighten up the rock.
 

twilliard

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I have some red slime remover coming, will try that since I have it reduced from doing the 3 days lights off. If red slime remover does not work then I will try a dose of chemiclean. I hate doing large water changes, why I was doing the peroxide. I can say the 3 days of lights off sure seemed to brighten up the rock.
Sounds like a good plan. I will be working directly with erythromycin once it arrives as an alternative to the expensive chemiclean.
 
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Bruce Burnett

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So when I did the red slime remover per instructions it did nothing just skimmer foamed like crazy. After 48 hours skimmer was almost back to normal so I dosed chemi-clean per instructions made no different and did not cause skimmer to go crazy. Here it is almost 3 months later and decided to give Chemi-clean another try. I dosed at 1.5 spoons per 10 gallons and at 24 hours did not seem to make any difference even seemed to still be growing where I blew it off. I dosed 50 ml of peroxide and at 48 hours after dosing Chemi-clean it started showing some die off in areas but looked like it was still growing in others. Dosed second round of chemi-clean and at 24 hours did another dose of 50 ml of peroxide. At 48 hours after the second dose of Chemi-clean, Cyano is all but gone. I am in process of doing a third and forth round of chemi-clean and hope it kills it all off. Doing the Chemi-clean and peroxide does not appear to hurt anything in the tank, I am using a wood air stone next to wave pump while using chemi-clean. Phosphates are currently 0.00 Hanna even though I stopped using GFO almost 3 months ago.
 
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Bruce Burnett

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So just for follow up I did not do fourth dose of Chemi-Clean and tank is still free of cyano
 

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At the end of the day, it's a statistics game. Unless you quarantine EVERYTHING going into your tank, you are playing Russian roulette. What's the point of qt for fish when you dont qt your corals and inverts. To those that qt everything, props to you.
 
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Bruce Burnett

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At the end of the day, it's a statistics game. Unless you quarantine EVERYTHING going into your tank, you are playing Russian roulette. What's the point of qt for fish when you dont qt your corals and inverts. To those that qt everything, props to you.
Not sure if this was meant to be posted on a 5 year old post. Cyano is one of those things you can get from just having water and light
 
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