Crystal clear water without carbon

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Doesn't Purigen lower the oxygen in the water as well? Thought I read that somewhere.
Not that I know of and my ph, is always great.
 
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TbyZ

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If you pack Purigen tight it will make your water crystal clear and there's no worries about HLLE.



You can re-charge it but it does not come back to 100% and it's just not worth the effort.

How hard is it to do? This was one reason I was thinking about trying it.
 

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How hard is it to do? This was one reason I was thinking about trying it.
No, it's not hard to re-charge.

For Saltwater:
"REGENERATION: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metallic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Use regular 8.25% hypochlorite household bleach (non-scented, no dyes, do not use a splash-less bleach). Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 4 tablespoons of Prime®, or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water.
Do not reuse if odor of bleach/chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit."

To be safe I used to soak, to the "Prime" equation for 24 hours.
 
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cmcoker

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How hard is it to do? This was one reason I was thinking about trying it.
"REGENERATION: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metallic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Use regular 8.25% hypochlorite household bleach (non-scented, no dyes, do not use a splash-less bleach). Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 4 tablespoons of Prime[emoji768], or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer[emoji768], Neutral Regulator[emoji768]). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen[emoji768] is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigen[emoji768] and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of bleach/chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit."
Gott a buy so much prime, may as well just buy more purigen.
 

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Since Randy's been on the same thread too.

We both believe that Purigen "Could" release (absorbed) organics back into the water column if the Purigen becomes fully exhausted.
Even though Seachem claims that it does not.

I don't push Purigen that far.

Great product but it has it's +'s and -'s, just like anything else.

:)
 
AS

Diesel

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clear-as-water.jpg


For what it is worth................ many still remember but I do still exercise this method, free of charge and never in back order!!
 

Newb73

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More than 1 way to skin a cat.

I run ozone, 2x Kessil grow lights growing mad amounts of chateo. I run a nitrate reactor. Continuous automatic water changes at 3.5 gallons per day. I am currently not skimming but do change my filter socks every 3 days and I rotate 4 weeks of gfo followed by 2 or 3 weeks of Rox. 8.

I have crystal clear water an test undetectable for Nitrate on Elos and 0 for Phosphate on Hannah.....but I feed 4 cubes per day plus a large pinch of nori pellets, regular pellets and nori strips....

Purigen won't be the long term magic bullet you think it will, though I would have no issue running it periodically.

I keep 3 polyfilters on hand at all times "just in case".
 
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Newb73

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I forgot...using these alternate resins succeeded in causing HLLE in a hippo tang.

It's noteworthy that ozone plus cheap gac in close proximity will do same, but not ozone plus Rox 0.8....as long as you don't run fresh Rox. 8 24/7.

Purigen/chemi-pure along with what ever that fluval resin is....will clean the water but my tangs and corals don't like it.

Maybe something you might could use with a HEAVILY stocked, heavy fed tank???
 

TerraFerma

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Haven't read through all this but if it hasn't been mentioned - I used live phyto for several months and has very legit clear water. Only rub is its expensive so when my initial introductory offer supply ran out I ceased using it. I'm not interested in culturing phyto but if money was no object I'd happily use live phyto in lieu of carbon or other media.
 
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Diesel

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What I don't understand is that many hobbyist still believe having nutrients low or undetectable is a good thing for clear water.
Why in the name of God you want your No3 and Po4 on 0.0 (believe me it's never 0.0 even if your test units say so).
You can have the most clear water and yet still run your No3 at 10ppm and Po4 at 0,1 as in my case.
We all know, well I hope we do that now days you need to have detectable nutrients and a good amount of it or others................ well not going to give you guys the answer.
It ain't about how clear your water is it's about how you can grow a coral from 1" frag into a colony in 6 months 12 months.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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BRS

Victoria M

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I for one am glad that Randy is around to offer his objective perspective. (that is just fun to say) As I read the OP post I thought "oh no". and then I saw that Randy stepped in to help... whew...relief.
I remember when I started in this hobby and would follow that kind of stuff. Then I found Randys articles. I also found a few other authors that redirected my aquarium misadventures.
Thank you Randy. I appreciate all you do for this hobby. (And as a nurse I appreciate all you have done for many of my patients.) When you debunk the big and small misleading things we read on the interwebs you positively impact our aquarium creatures lives. I think that is pretty awesome.
 

Donovan Joannes

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NSW is not clear. I take comfort in that fact when I have a little cloudiness in my tank.

Agreed 101%. I would freak out if nothing floats around my tank (fine dust) as those fine particulates are foods for corals and filter feeders.
 

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What I don't understand is that many hobbyist still believe having nutrients low or undetectable is a good thing for clear water.
Why in the name of God you want your No3 and Po4 on 0.0 (believe me it's never 0.0 even if your test units say so).
You can have the most clear water and yet still run your No3 at 10ppm and Po4 at 0,1 as in my case.
We all know, well I hope we do that now days you need to have detectable nutrients and a good amount of it or others................ well not going to give you guys the answer.
It ain't about how clear your water is it's about how you can grow a coral from 1" frag into a colony in 6 months 12 months.
Bout time somebody said that.

You don't want your water stripped out to be (totally) crystal clear.
 
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I forgot...using these alternate resins succeeded in causing HLLE in a hippo tang.
Carbon can lead to HLLE in tangs.
Not Purigen :)
 

Jimmyneptune

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Hey Robert, I'm glad you took my post the way it was intended. I hope you don't keep your mouth closed, because every observation is helpful! I was trying to help diffuse things a little. I was sensing the potential for blood in the water!
Blood in the water!
What clears that up filter sock, carbon, or purigen?
 
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