Corals Dying PLEASE HELP

UGASealDawg

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Agree with what you got from other contributors.

New system? New coral?

QT is almost a necessity - it's an investment that will help protect your major investment in this reef.

Do you see any brown jelly or fleshy like discharge from the affected corals? If so, PM me. That would be brown jelly and not going to be, ummm, fun!?. I'll dump everything I know from a year long battle with a 180 gal system and $10k of coral.

For the temp - 80 seems to be a threshold that affects a lot of coral too. If you don't have a chiller, then get fans pointed at your sump. You can also freeze chunks of RODI water and add them to the sump - not a good plan long term. Need to find a way to keep the temp as stable as you can under 80 and , ideally, between 76 and 78. Do you have to turn on the heaters at night? Perhaps setting the on temp a bit lower so that the tank starts off lower when the heat starts. Temp swings are bad and they are very hard to ID as the culprit because it may be a few days/weeks before the coral starts to show signs of distress from temp shock. That's why a very stable QT is needed.

For the locating, it definitely looks like coral warfare. When the lights first go out, feed your corals a couple evenings in a row. Then watch their tentacles come all the way out after a couple nights when they get used to feeding at dark. Then you can see the room each one needs. Definitely get the trachy and goni moved asap. That definitely looks like stinging from the hammer and the anenome? respectively.

Also, bare in mind, some corals poison the water and the attack can be widely distributed...and some corals are more aggressive and others sensitive. That's why QT then adding one at a time is the best method imho.

Err on the side of too much space between them. Especially different types. A lot of corals are more tolerant/resistant to their own kind. Euphyllias have amazing long tentacles at their disposal...they will reach out and touch some one - if you are old enough to get the reference.

QT the affected if you can.

PM me if anything needs clarification.

Good luck!
 

VintageReefer

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It could be ill try to separate them im going to add carbone also to see if it helps
Carbon won’t help. The corals sense each other. They will attack. Some are more aggressive than others. Hammer and anemone for sure

Here’s my hammer sending out 6+“ sweepers to attack a nearby coral
AEB8AE5F-1337-4310-AF14-94EEC78DF09B.jpeg
384D86FB-9706-4B7F-8631-7E6F918CF1E7.jpeg
 
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nova918

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I suggest buying or renting a par meter. Xr15 g6 has lowish par, on larger and deeper tanks. And you’re running around 40%. I was just in a thread and a guy had to have 2 xr15 g6 at nearly 100% to get decent par in a 36” tank. You do have a lot of them, but at low intensity and supplement with kessils, so basically - your setup is custom, we really can’t advice if it’s “good enough” or if your settings need to be increased, without par measurement in the tank

I will say - and this is a guess and opinion - your probably too low in the settings.
I will rent one from BRS the. To check my par
 
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nova918

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Water changes. Reduce kalk. Your calcium is high, not harmful at all, but this has room to safely decrease and alk will go down also
Thanks you will do some water changes and check par intensity will rent a par meter
 
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nova918

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Agree with what you got from other contributors.

New system? New coral?

QT is almost a necessity - it's an investment that will help protect your major investment in this reef.

Do you see any brown jelly or fleshy like discharge from the affected corals? If so, PM me. That would be brown jelly and not going to be, ummm, fun!?. I'll dump everything I know from a year long battle with a 180 gal system and $10k of coral.

For the temp - 80 seems to be a threshold that affects a lot of coral too. If you don't have a chiller, then get fans pointed at your sump. You can also freeze chunks of RODI water and add them to the sump - not a good plan long term. Need to find a way to keep the temp as stable as you can under 80 and , ideally, between 76 and 78. Do you have to turn on the heaters at night? Perhaps setting the on temp a bit lower so that the tank starts off lower when the heat starts. Temp swings are bad and they are very hard to ID as the culprit because it may be a few days/weeks before the coral starts to show signs of distress from temp shock. That's why a very stable QT is needed.

For the locating, it definitely looks like coral warfare. When the lights first go out, feed your corals a couple evenings in a row. Then watch their tentacles come all the way out after a couple nights when they get used to feeding at dark. Then you can see the room each one needs. Definitely get the trachy and goni moved asap. That definitely looks like stinging from the hammer and the anenome? respectively.

Also, bare in mind, some corals poison the water and the attack can be widely distributed...and some corals are more aggressive and others sensitive. That's why QT then adding one at a time is the best method imho.

Err on the side of too much space between them. Especially different types. A lot of corals are more tolerant/resistant to their own kind. Euphyllias have amazing long tentacles at their disposal...they will reach out and touch some one - if you are old enough to get the reference.

QT the affected if you can.


I do quarantine all my fish i went trough velvet twice never again …. And thats why i added 150w uv and a 80w just incase…. My corals i get it from a source that just sell corals and quarantine all there corals first… before selling ..

And to be honest no not really seeing brown jelly on them… the fans is what is helping me a bit i put some under the sump…. Is the two uv sterilezers that warm the water when just one on no problem but when i turn both on the cold air in the house cant really compete … i have a apex pro and heaters to be honest never come on since the UV are on …temp swing for example at night 79 then during the day can go all the way to even high 82
 
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nova918

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Agree with what you got from other contributors.

New system? New coral?

QT is almost a necessity - it's an investment that will help protect your major investment in this reef.

Do you see any brown jelly or fleshy like discharge from the affected corals? If so, PM me. That would be brown jelly and not going to be, ummm, fun!?. I'll dump everything I know from a year long battle with a 180 gal system and $10k of coral.

For the temp - 80 seems to be a threshold that affects a lot of coral too. If you don't have a chiller, then get fans pointed at your sump. You can also freeze chunks of RODI water and add them to the sump - not a good plan long term. Need to find a way to keep the temp as stable as you can under 80 and , ideally, between 76 and 78. Do you have to turn on the heaters at night? Perhaps setting the on temp a bit lower so that the tank starts off lower when the heat starts. Temp swings are bad and they are very hard to ID as the culprit because it may be a few days/weeks before the coral starts to show signs of distress from temp shock. That's why a very stable QT is needed.

For the locating, it definitely looks like coral warfare. When the lights first go out, feed your corals a couple evenings in a row. Then watch their tentacles come all the way out after a couple nights when they get used to feeding at dark. Then you can see the room each one needs. Definitely get the trachy and goni moved asap. That definitely looks like stinging from the hammer and the anenome? respectively.

Also, bare in mind, some corals poison the water and the attack can be widely distributed...and some corals are more aggressive and others sensitive. That's why QT then adding one at a time is the best method imho.

Err on the side of too much space between them. Especially different types. A lot of corals are more tolerant/resistant to their own kind. Euphyllias have amazing long tentacles at their disposal...they will reach out and touch some one - if you are old enough to get the reference.

QT the affected if you can.

PM me if anything needs clarification.

Good luck!
Thanks alot good point you made worst case scenario im going to have to invest in a chiller since i want to have both UVs running
 
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nova918

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I keep my systems heaters at 77. It gives more room / time in case ambient gets too high
Good idea but im going to need a chiller my UV are warming up the water to much and even with fans with this summer heat even the house at 68 it’s struggling to keep the system cool
 

Garf

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No PH is i have it dial in at 8.3 probably drop to 8.29 and high during ligts on prob 8.32
I'd definitely reduce kalk dosing first.. if anything is related to high ALK (may not be), the improvements may be visible very quickly.
 
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nova918

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And i think i might of figured it out not 100 percent sure but you guys Tell me what you think …. I ordered a par meter …. Par was extremely low in sand bed like 30 on top rocks like 60 70 ….

Not only was running radeons lights at 40 % but they where way to high i drop them down to about 16 inch from the top of the tank …. Tank tall is 28 inches …. I brought them down increase the power on the Radeon's … now im getting par in sand bed aroun 80 90 ….. 100 depend on the area and on top rock 150 170 180 …. What do you guys think….
 

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