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Is any one else lost with this reply? Sryin a nano reef invasion, we don’t ever need to know the species at hand. We need only a tank owner done with being invaded, ready to win. A rip clean fixes any invasion that exists in a nano reef.
ability to access the entire system and all new water changes the remediation rules. Large tankers don’t have access to all new water and it’s too hard to clean the tank correctly, they must do it in parts
large tank owners can’t rip clean, they must hesitantly ID and dose things/ cross fingers and hope and by extension owners of all reefs think it has to be this way. so the rule gets made up: don’t do water changes during dinos
and that’s a bad rule, bc we do opposite and collect wins. There is no larger % water change than a rip clean, doing opposite of the rules made by large tankers is good for nano owners but you have to clean all at once, you can NOT do it in sections. There’s a reason for that.
as of now: your suspended protein is low
Invasion mass is high
food concentration, low. They’re nitrogen negative and losing mass.
all surfaces blanketed, surface area for nitrification reduced from wastewater contact by blanketing coverage
your corals haven’t been fed used with increased water changes the last few mos, they’re enduring stresses only. dosers only
blackouts, all insults.
Changes hoping to affect dinos over an extended period, thats coral stress. We dispense the invasion overnite and concentrate on feed + water changes to drive clean protein right back into corals = puts on mass.
we get opposite outcome by doing opposite to what the masses do.
you can be fixed by tomorrow we show as plain as day twice over above.
notice this: we focus on increased feeding of corals after the rip clean, not dosers. It’s why their corals are extended so well they’re about to fall out of the cup. do literally opposite of the masses for the consistent win.
do a nano reef exercise reboot camp live time here. Your after pics will look like gold if you do.
I think i noticed a few diatioms in other sections of the slide but very few. I dosed spongeexcell for several weeks and now for the past week ive been dosing both spongexcell and also .4ml of 41% waterglass daily.Wow… I don’t see any diatoms in there. 3 weeks of dosing? Your silica tester has to be giving you false readings. You using Brightwells spongexcel?
i also failed to mention i forgot to pull phosguard about the first week of dosing. which i see also pulls silicates.I think i noticed a few diatioms in other sections of the slide but very few. I dosed spongeexcell for several weeks and now for the past week ive been dosing both spongexcell and also .4ml of 41% waterglass daily.
The first few days i was just dosing a few drops. I then started dosing one full squeeze from the dropper which was about 20 drops. Lately, ive been dosing .4ml of waterglass AND 20+ drops of spongexcellHow many you drops daily and what’s your tank size?
the spongexcell is so diluted i never even rly calculated what i would need to dose 2ppm but i do know The .4ml of waterglass alone is 2ppmFor reference, on my 220g total I was dosing about 220-300 drops per day. That lasted about a week until I had to back off because my silicate was above 2ppm.
Hi hiSilicate will remedy the Dino’s that develope on sand. No need to rip it clean. Also, be aware, when the diatoms take over and dominate the dino’s, it will still look much like dino’s. It will be hard to tell them apart. It’s always best to use a microscope to verify. Cerith snails will help remove the diatom algae. If Dino’s are primary on live rock, get a UV sterlizer. Night and day difference. Keep po4 around 0.03-1.0ppm and no3 above 2.5ppm. I personally would monitor the silicate. I was amazed at how high my levels got when dosing even small amounts. Everyone’s tank is different though.