Considering an anemone --Talk me out of it!

Anemone worth it?

  • Yes

    Votes: 14 73.7%
  • No

    Votes: 5 26.3%

  • Total voters
    19

trevorhiller

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I've had my tank setup for about 8 months. When I set it up, I added two clownfish but said that I would not get an anemone because I didn't want to deal with it walking into powerheads, blocking overflows or stinging corals. I had one previously and it ended poorly (granted, I had no clue what I was doing back then). I saw a little brilliant white bubble tip anemone at Petco the other day and it has me reconsidering. It would be nice if I could get it to host my clownfish and get them out of the top corner of my tank where they stay all day.

I do have Nem guards I could throw on my two Nero 3s and I have a Cade tank that has a lower backup overflow weir so obstructing the weir shouldn't be a problem. But...I still have concerns about it stinging corals.

What are your thoughts? Should I reconsider my "rule" of no anemones this time around? Are they worth it?
 

MoshJosh

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I like anemones. . . got my bubble tip at Petco as well!!! that said if you don't want a nem and are just looking for something for your clowns to host maybe look into corals they might host. Hammers/euphylia seem to be possible options.

Also, might be worth looking into videos on how to convince clowns to host, as even with a nem there is no guarantee. . .

Just my thoughts, hope that helps.
 

shakacuz

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i just got a CSB BTA, bought a holder for it and have been monitoring it. if it tried to move i’ll intervene but so far so good!

you can always try to work around the nem, but of course we never really know when they’ll decide to move
 

vetteguy53081

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At 8 months, you should be good. key is to have have tank stable and get parameters right as anemones such as bubble tips dont tolerate changes in water chemistry well. This assures that conditions are stable and safe. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temperature: 77°F - 80°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
  • Alk: 8 to 11 dKH
  • Salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < .5
  • Phosphate < .04
When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists soon find out that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These anemones enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Anemone feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. Anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. Feedings twice a week is sufficient.
 

bxclent

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I've had my tank setup for about 8 months. When I set it up, I added two clownfish but said that I would not get an anemone because I didn't want to deal with it walking into powerheads, blocking overflows or stinging corals. I had one previously and it ended poorly (granted, I had no clue what I was doing back then). I saw a little brilliant white bubble tip anemone at Petco the other day and it has me reconsidering. It would be nice if I could get it to host my clownfish and get them out of the top corner of my tank where they stay all day.

I do have Nem guards I could throw on my two Nero 3s and I have a Cade tank that has a lower backup overflow weir so obstructing the weir shouldn't be a problem. But...I still have concerns about it stinging corals.

What are your thoughts? Should I reconsider my "rule" of no anemones this time around? Are they worth it?
I got my first anemone and unfortunately it ended up in the power head and caused a massive meltdown in my water quality. Luckily Nothing perished but a few snails. I had to do a 50% water change and added fresh carbon and Purigen,
 

Jekyl

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I've had my tank setup for about 8 months. When I set it up, I added two clownfish but said that I would not get an anemone because I didn't want to deal with it walking into powerheads, blocking overflows or stinging corals. I had one previously and it ended poorly (granted, I had no clue what I was doing back then). I saw a little brilliant white bubble tip anemone at Petco the other day and it has me reconsidering. It would be nice if I could get it to host my clownfish and get them out of the top corner of my tank where they stay all day.

I do have Nem guards I could throw on my two Nero 3s and I have a Cade tank that has a lower backup overflow weir so obstructing the weir shouldn't be a problem. But...I still have concerns about it stinging corals.

What are your thoughts? Should I reconsider my "rule" of no anemones this time around? Are they worth it?
If you do make the plunge, find a local reefer to buy from and not petco.
 

Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%

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