CO2 scrubber review

DipSpit

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I would try a pH test with your tank water bubbled with outside air compared to inside tank. See if that improves your pH and run outside air only. You might be able to skip the media entirely.

That could very well be the case - but then I wouldn't get to build a scrubber and solenoid :(
 

EJReef

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The tricky part is the alkalinity demand rises when the scrubber is added because of the higher PH. The alk consumption has doubled for me. Now I'm worried about it spiking if the media is consumed and the PH falls when I'm away.
 

DipSpit

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The tricky part is the alkalinity demand rises when the scrubber is added because of the higher PH. The alk consumption has doubled for me. Now I'm worried about it spiking if the media is consumed and the PH falls when I'm away.

That is what you want it to do, no? More Alk/Calc consumption = corals growing?
 

reefluvrr

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Havasuviking

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I just put my BRS CO2 scrubber on line. I noticed that some use a media reactor before the scrubber in series for humidifying the air before it goes to scrubber. If yes, where do I put the RODI water in the BRS media reactor? Do I put it in the inner chamber or between the outer and inner chamber and how much do I use?
 
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SuperDragon

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One year isn't bad I always assumed it would be a couple of months. When you say "plugging into the cup" what do you mean?
I have been thinking of doing this for a while now as well.

20170326_194328.jpg

Skimmer cup, black silicone airline tubing x 2, then reactor.

I just put my BRS CO2 scrubber on line. I noticed that some use a media reactor before the scrubber in series for humidifying the air before it goes to scrubber. If yes, where do I put the RODI water in the BRS media reactor? Do I put it in the inner chamber or between the outer and inner chamber and how much do I use?

We find that adding water to the reactor does not last that long. These are the instructions from brs, click on more and "directions"
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-universal-co2-scrubber.html
or
What I did above. Media lasts longer with above.
 
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SuperDragon

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That is what you want it to do, no? More Alk/Calc consumption = corals growing?

Yes more growth/faster for sure. With the shift in pH, less CO2 and more O2, more capacity for Alk (carbon source) and Calc. So a little bit of everything. My consumption is double also.
 

EJReef

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20170326_194328.jpg

Skimmer cup, black silicone airline tubing x 2, then reactor.



We find that adding water to the reactor does not last that long. These are the instructions from brs, click on more and "directions"
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-universal-co2-scrubber.html
or
What I did above. Media lasts longer with above.

Cool, mine looks almost all purple using a flashlight (at least the media against the side I can see) but my PH has not dropped. It actually looked pretty much the same yesterday. It has now been 49 hours since I started.

What did yours look like when the PH started dropping?
 

CoralNerd

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Anyone successfully put a air check valve where the co2 scrubber takes in air? I tried it, but it collapses the foam in the skimmer. [emoji53]
 
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Cool, mine looks almost all purple using a flashlight (at least the media against the side I can see) but my PH has not dropped. It actually looked pretty much the same yesterday. It has now been 49 hours since I started.

What did yours look like when the PH started dropping?

In the pic my media is white at the top and about 20-30% used at the bottom... purple.
When I first changed the media (1tbsp water in the reactor) there were some parts of the center of the media that were still white.

Anyone successfully put a air check valve where the co2 scrubber takes in air? I tried it, but it collapses the foam in the skimmer. [emoji53]

Is the check valve to prevent water or more for one way flow?
 

CoralNerd

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The check valve ideally if you can put one on would prevent the soad lime from depleting...say skimmer is off no need to have the scrubber sucking co2 in
 
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The check valve ideally if you can put one on would prevent the soad lime from depleting...say skimmer is off no need to have the scrubber sucking co2 in

I understand. That may be negligible since it needs air to go through it and it likely won't last you more than 1-2 weeks anyways. FWIW scrubber media isn't as expensive as other things in the hobby. :) $alt i$ pretty up there.
 

BluewaterLa

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20170326_194328.jpg

Skimmer cup, black silicone airline tubing x 2, then reactor.



We find that adding water to the reactor does not last that long. These are the instructions from brs, click on more and "directions"
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-universal-co2-scrubber.html
or
What I did above. Media lasts longer with above.

So you are recirculating your air by feeding the media the skimmer scrubbed air inside the cup through the media reactor and back into the air intake on the skimmer

Nice idea there
Let us know how it works after a while of testing
 

EJReef

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So you are recirculating your air by feeding the media the skimmer scrubbed air inside the cup through the media reactor and back into the air intake on the skimmer

Nice idea there
Let us know how it works after a while of testing

I never thought of it that way. I wonder if it lasts longer due to the residual air in the cup as well.
 

drawman

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20170326_194328.jpg

Skimmer cup, black silicone airline tubing x 2, then reactor.



We find that adding water to the reactor does not last that long. These are the instructions from brs, click on more and "directions"
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-universal-co2-scrubber.html
or
What I did above. Media lasts longer with above.
So I'm guessing that the justification here is two-fold. One that the air in the cup is more humid and two that it already has less CO2 since the CO2 scrubber is feeding the air intake of the skimmer, correct? Sounds like a good way to do it.
 

BlueCursor

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Sodassorb HP like most sorbs needs humidity to work efficiently like in a rebreather. I asked earlier about moisture/wetness, if too much wetness would impact performance. Likely no like Velcro said, but Coral nerd did have mold grow.
However, I'm sure like you mentioned airflow levels are impacted... but probably minimal.
Every rebreather diver knows that if you get your media wet, you die! Moisture in the air is good, wet is bad. Even a minor leak in the diving loop proves deadly.

Humid air is good but keep the media dry.
 
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SuperDragon

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Every rebreather diver knows that if you get your media wet, you die! Moisture in the air is good, wet is bad. Even a minor leak in the diving loop proves deadly.

Humid air is good but keep the media dry.

Thank you for your contribution, now we know :)
When I researched the Sorbs, the diver grade seems more potent than the medical grade up to 30%. All I know is to never use medical grade for diving purposes.
My understanding is that medical grade does not produce byproducts with anesthetic gases that can be deadly.
Do you have any comments?
 

BlueCursor

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I've never made price comparisons, but food grade would be good enough for a reef scrubber. You don't need medical grade for a reef. The only problem is that food grade is not color enhanced, and it usually comes in powder or micro-beads. Not sure micro-beads would work.

Anything less than food grade could have some other compounds in the NaOH so it could cause issues. I wouldn't use those.
 
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