Clownfish Sick?

travisandsuch

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Bought our first two clownfish at Petco (never again) 1.5 wks ago. Our tank is in its early stages of cycling up (IM SR80 AIO). Fish have been swimming and eating well. After a few days, we noticed what looked like a couple of white spots on each of the clowns. They still seemed to be behaving normally, but we were concerned about ich. 36 hrs later, the spots were gone, but we continued to monitor after reading that spots can ‘fall off’ at times. Everything seemed fine, no more spots since that time (about a week ago). Today, my wife swore she saw 4-5 white spots on our female, but they were gone a few hours later. Right now, the female has what looks like spots of pale skin near her face (tried to take a picture below) so now we’re concerned it’s something else.

We did our first water change (8g) one week in, dosed bacteria, and salinity and temps have remained constant. Definitely stressing about our new tank mates, but the situation seems to keep changing, rather than progressing. Any chance we worried for nothing?

Edit: with clearer pics with the lights on, she definitely looks rough. Was very hard to see without the lights on
IMG_8194.jpeg
 
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vetteguy53081

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Bought our first two clownfish at Petco (never again) 1.5 wks ago. Our tank is in its early stages of cycling up (IM SR80 AIO). Fish have been swimming and eating well. After a few days, we noticed what looked like a couple of white spots on each of the clowns. They still seemed to be behaving normally, but we were concerned about ich. 36 hrs later, the spots were gone, but we continued to monitor after reading that spots can ‘fall off’ at times. Everything seemed fine, no more spots since that time (about a week ago). Today, my wife swore she saw 4-5 white spots on our female, but they were gone a few hours later. Right now, the female has what looks like spots of pale skin near her face (tried to take a picture below) so now we’re concerned it’s something else.

We did our first water change (8g) one week in, dosed bacteria, and salinity and temps have remained constant. Definitely stressing about our new tank mates, but the situation seems to keep changing, rather than progressing. Any chance we worried for nothing?

IMG_8194.jpeg
Pic is a little dark in light -(need more wite) and a tad blurry. I see dots and while it appears as ich can also be bacterial lesions but cant confirm.
Please repost under brighter lighting and assure both camera lens and glass are clean
 
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travisandsuch

travisandsuch

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Pic is a little dark in light -(need more wite) and a tad blurry. I see dots and while it appears as ich can also be bacterial lesions but cant confirm.
Please repost under brighter lighting and assure both camera lens and glass are clean
with clearer pics with the lights on, she definitely looks rough. Was very hard to see without the lights on
 

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vetteguy53081

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with clearer pics with the lights on, she definitely looks rough. Was very hard to see without the lights on
This looks like Cryptocaryon AKA Marine ich and sorry to see this on your new acquisition. These fish will have to be moved to a separate treatment tank and treated with either coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
 
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travisandsuch

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This looks like Cryptocaryon AKA Marine ich and sorry to see this on your new acquisition. These fish will have to be moved to a separate treatment tank and treated with either coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
Thank you for the helpful info. Unfortunate, but we’ll deal with it. When the question first arose, we looked at the hyposalinity method as a potential solution (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.247596/). Any thoughts on this vs a quarantine tank? Thanks again, very much, for your help.
 

vetteguy53081

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Thank you for the helpful info. Unfortunate, but we’ll deal with it. When the question first arose, we looked at the hyposalinity method as a potential solution (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.247596/). Any thoughts on this vs a quarantine tank? Thanks again, very much, for your help.
While hypo (1.009) would be effective, it is also/can be stressful to certain fish. It will be a chance you take but an option.
 
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travisandsuch

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While hypo (1.009) would be effective, it is also/can be stressful to certain fish. It will be a chance you take but an option.
Ok last question (probably): is this something we need to tackle ASAP (tonight? Tomorrow?) or can it wait until the weekend?
 

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