Clownfish has ich?….

[Reef_at_Sea]

Agree, not ich and if so, it will multiple daily on the fish. For future - Pics are best under white bright light intensity, no blue, red, etc for best assessment. May also be secondary bacterial lesions

So the white spots in the blue light aren’t anything?

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

Agree, not ich and if so, it will multiple daily on the fish. For future - Pics are best under white bright light intensity, no blue, red, etc for best assessment. May also be secondary bacterial lesions

.

 

[vetteguy53081]

So the white spots in the blue light aren’t anything?

Cant say that as the blue light is making it hard to confirm if they are or not

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

Cant say that as the blue light is making it hard to confirm if they are or not

I can even spot them myself on the white light pictures.
I’m getting alot of mixed reactions wich is making me very confused haha.

I’m just gonna have to monitor him & see what happens.

Worst case scenario is a fallow tank for 76 days i guess.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I can even spot them myself on the white light pictures.
I’m getting alot of mixed reactions wich is making me very confused haha.

I’m just gonna have to monitor him & see what happens.

Worst case scenario is a fallow tank for 76 days i guess.

Its 6-8 weeks if needed. 76 days goes way back although you can go the extra 2.5 weeks

 

[MnFish1]

So the white spots in the blue light aren’t anything?

I see the spots. I would call it ich. however since there is not much you say you can do, I would continue to watch.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Sadly don’t have a air stone at hand.
My Kh is on the low side, could that cause the gasping/rapid breathing? It’s only 5.1

Or could it just be stressed from moving? Did you see the blue pictures? Alot of spots.

Is this video better?

Low Kh by itself isn’t an issue, but what is the pH? A low pH indicates high carbon dioxide and that can cause rapid breathing, that’s why I suggested an air stone. Does the tank have any good aeration 5not just circulation)?

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

Low Kh by itself isn’t an issue, but what is the pH? A low pH indicates high carbon dioxide and that can cause rapid breathing, that’s why I suggested an air stone. Does the tank have any good aeration 5not just circulation)?

I tested my pH multiple times last couple of days & all of them resulted 8,15.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I tested my pH multiple times last couple of days & all of them resulted 8,15.

Good - you can rule that out then!

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

Good - you can rule that out then!

I checked on my fish this morning & he was still alive (hiding in the rocks because of the lights not being on yet).
Yesterday when the lights turned off it ventured more around the aquarium too.
He used to have a small blue light in the same room as his tank but now at night it's total darkness, could that stress him out?

i'm also looking into a UV filter.

 

[MnFish1]

so if the dots go away it’s not guaranteed that he survived? dang…
Are there any cases of clownfish surviving ich on its own?

Fish can survive Ich via there immune system - just like some people survive malaria (but millions die). If you bought a wild fish - they likely have some immunity to ich etc. Tank bred not so much. So - to answer your question - yes - some clownfish can survive ich - and then what 'can' happen is that the fish though it looks healthy can have a very low level of parasites and look normal. When you add a new fish it's possible that that fish can then develop the infection. The life cycle being what it is the number of infectious particles can rapidly increase and kill fish. IMHO - at this stage the total bioload is important. If you look at the total surface area of the fish in the tank - you can see that the only place Ich has to grow on is that surface area of the fish's mucosa. If there is one clown in a 150 gallon tank, thats alot less risky than 100 clownfish in a 150 gallon tank. Hope this makes sense

 

[MnFish1]

I can even spot them myself on the white light pictures.
I’m getting alot of mixed reactions wich is making me very confused haha.

I’m just gonna have to monitor him & see what happens.

Worst case scenario is a fallow tank for 76 days i guess.

The worst case scenario, is that you could lose all of your fish and need to do a fallow period. It is really difficult to tell with a couple pictures what's going on - whether in blue or white light (blue is definitely more difficult). The important thing is if you're watching, what are you going to do if/when it gets worse - and I would be prepared for that.

I hope you're not getting the idea that you're getting multiple opinions - in reality we all agree - we're just giving advice on what it is based on what we see. The important diagnostic clue for ich is monitoring for spots that come and go. If all the spots go and never come back - great. or if all of the spots just stay where they are all the time - it's not ich.

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

Fish can survive Ich via there immune system - just like some people survive malaria (but millions die). If you bought a wild fish - they likely have some immunity to ich etc. Tank bred not so much. So - to answer your question - yes - some clownfish can survive ich - and then what 'can' happen is that the fish though it looks healthy can have a very low level of parasites and look normal. When you add a new fish it's possible that that fish can then develop the infection. The life cycle being what it is the number of infectious particles can rapidly increase and kill fish. IMHO - at this stage the total bioload is important. If you look at the total surface area of the fish in the tank - you can see that the only place Ich has to grow on is that surface area of the fish's mucosa. If there is one clown in a 150 gallon tank, thats alot less risky than 100 clownfish in a 150 gallon tank. Hope this makes sense

So do i get this correct, if my 1 clownfish manages to fight off ich for the next weeks the chances are higher of it not spreading to new fish?
i'm looking at this from a perspective on, when am i safe to add more fish if he survives? Cause at this point i know he has it & when do i know he doesn't have it anymore?

 

[MnFish1]

So do i get this correct, if my 1 clownfish manages to fight off ich for the next weeks the chances are higher of it not spreading to new fish?
i'm looking at this from a perspective on, when am i safe to add more fish if he survives? Cause at this point i know he has it & when do i know he doesn't have it anymore?

Yes - that is correct. However, I would lengthen the period you're waiting. The longer you wait with no disease present, the lower the likelihood (if you're trying to 'manage' ich

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

Yes - that is correct. However, I would lengthen the period you're waiting. The longer you wait with no disease present, the lower the likelihood (if you're trying to 'manage' ich

Yeah, luckily it’s my only fish & i’m also looking into a proper UV filter

 

[vetteguy53081]

So do i get this correct, if my 1 clownfish manages to fight off ich for the next weeks the chances are higher of it not spreading to new fish?
i'm looking at this from a perspective on, when am i safe to add more fish if he survives? Cause at this point i know he has it & when do i know he doesn't have it anymore?

Rarely if ever are fish immune to disease. Resistant yes, as us humans are but it is a challenge in marine aquaria and often based on fish health, diet , water quality and reduced by quarantining up front. It safe to add fish when you are assured that ant given or identifiable disease is indeed gone.
Too many times, it is seen that a disease has returned, and in part never left but recycled their life cycle. I personally would observe for 21-28 days before attempting another addition that could be exposed to any disease and hence the reason for quarantining new arrivals moving forward

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

For some reason my clownfish is hiding alot right now.

Still alive but doesn’t wanna come out, can’t take a proper look at him

Do dying fish hide?

Stil doesn’t wanna eat, he has almost no spots but i see a big one above one of his frontal fins

 

[MnFish1]

Rarely if ever are fish immune to disease. Resistant yes, as us humans are but it is a challenge in marine aquaria and often based on fish health, diet , water quality and reduced by quarantining up front. It safe to add fish when you are assured that ant given or identifiable disease is indeed gone.
Too many times, it is seen that a disease has returned, and in part never left but recycled their life cycle. I personally would observe for 21-28 days before attempting another addition that could be exposed to any disease and hence the reason for quarantining new arrivals moving forward

I agree with you. Just to clarify for others - because this idea of 'an immune tank' keeps coming up. There is plenty of evidence for fish immunity - both innate and acquired - however, since that specific immunity only last if the fish is in the presence of the organism periodically, it is usually not long-lasting. (at least one study using cold water fish showed immunity started dropping off after 6 month - but since the study only lasted 6 months its impossible to say how long it takes to 'go away'. (This is the disease specific acquired immunity). This study is the basis of the oft quoted 'immunity lasts 6 months'. In fact, we don't know.

All fish have innate immunity to parasites , etc - i.e. slime coat, enzymes in the skin secretions, etc - which as @vetteguy53081 stated is often not enough for a non-immune (acquired) fish to resist it in a closed tank where the parasite numbers can easily overwhelm the fish depending on the bioload.

Interestingly the common 'knowledge' that a fallow period for ich should be 76 days also relate to a cold water study - I believe by the same group that did the immunity study. The longest Ich survived was (I believe) 72 days - so people said - ok - let's add 4 days as an insurance policy. However, ich may not behave the same in a cold water fish than in a reef - which is why some now have had success with shorter fallow periods (especially at slightly higher temperatures).

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

I agree with you. Just to clarify for others - because this idea of 'an immune tank' keeps coming up. There is plenty of evidence for fish immunity - both innate and acquired - however, since that specific immunity only last if the fish is in the presence of the organism periodically, it is usually not long-lasting. (at least one study using cold water fish showed immunity started dropping off after 6 month - but since the study only lasted 6 months its impossible to say how long it takes to 'go away'. (This is the disease specific acquired immunity). This study is the basis of the oft quoted 'immunity lasts 6 months'. In fact, we don't know.

All fish have innate immunity to parasites , etc - i.e. slime coat, enzymes in the skin secretions, etc - which as @vetteguy53081 stated is often not enough for a non-immune (acquired) fish to resist it in a closed tank where the parasite numbers can easily overwhelm the fish depending on the bioload.

Interestingly the common 'knowledge' that a fallow period for ich should be 76 days also relate to a cold water study - I believe by the same group that did the immunity study. The longest Ich survived was (I believe) 72 days - so people said - ok - let's add 4 days as an insurance policy. However, ich may not behave the same in a cold water fish than in a reef - which is why some now have had success with shorter fallow periods (especially at slightly higher temperatures).

Interesting!!!

Well my clownfish is still going strong, he even came out of hiding & is exploring the tank!
Still he has it’s mouth open all the time & doesn’t wanna eat so that still worry’s me.

 

[Reef_at_Sea]

Clownfish is still alive but hiding very far out of sight.. tho I checked him out for a while & he doesn’t seem to have alot or any white spots, lets hope it keeps this way… he pooped so that’s that aswell