Can your UV sterilizer be too big?

Futuretotm

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Yes mine is reduced to 3/4”. That is very common and normal.

Hey I am getting my Lifegard 90 watt, it comes with a 2" union inlet/outlet. Any idea how I can hook up 3/4 inch soft hose to it? Do they make barb fitting for that?
 

BZOFIQ

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Hey I am getting my Lifegard 90 watt, it comes with a 2" union inlet/outlet. Any idea how I can hook up 3/4 inch soft hose to it? Do they make barb fitting for that?

There is a 2" slip to 3/4 thread bushing that gets glued into place, then screw in a 3/4" barb adapter.
 

Badilac

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There is a 2" slip to 3/4 thread bushing that gets glued into place, then screw in a 3/4" barb adapter.

This is correct.

BC6D46FB-5A09-4C45-84D1-3731AF169619.jpeg
 

jonbark

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I am currently setting up a Reefer 425XL (112 gallon total system volume) and would like to plumb in a UV sterilizer primarily as preventative for algae/bacteria/dinos but it would be great if it also prevented fish parasites. I have watched the BRS videos and read the threads I could find and I am still left confused regarding proper sizing of the UV unit. The units I'm looking at are the Aqua Ultraviolet Classic 25W or 57W or the Pentair 25W.

I plan to plumb the UV in line after the return and expect that it will have in the neighbourhood of 450-500 gph of flow through it. Based on what I have read, this is likely the max due to being restricted by the stock Redsea plumbing. This results in turnover of about 4.5-5 times per hour.

Now Aqua UV's sizing chart indicates 30,000 units/cm2 for bacteria/algae management and 90,000 units/cm2 for protozoa. It also says "Reef Tanks -A UV rated in the 30,000-45,000 columns is ideal for the reef environment .UV’s rated at higher kill rates will destroy the planktonic food supply for the reef." This is the only place I have seen any mention of a potential downside of having "too much" UV in a reef tank. Based on what I have read, it seems many people run the protozoa UV levels in reef tanks.

The Pentair sizing chart indicates 180,000 units/cm2 for protozoa or double what Aqua UV says. They don't make any mention of risk to the planktonic food supply.

The charts say that the AquaUV 25w is good for up to 150 gallons and recommends a flow rate of 400gph for 90,000 units. The 57w version is good for up to 355 gallons and achieves 90,000 at 1,066 gph. The Pentair 25w recommends 472gph for 30,000 units and 79 gph for 180,000 units. I would not be able to achieve 180,000 with the Pentair as I could not have the flow that low and if I could, I would not have the turnover necessary to be effective against algae. The Pentair unit is also larger and will be more challenging to fit in the stand.

I was leaning toward the AquaUV 57w and thinking that if I ran 450-500gph through it I would be getting 180,000 units and also 4-5 times turnover, thereby being effective against algae/bacteria and also protozoa. I would appreciate some insight on whether there are actual downsides to oversizing a UV and if there is anything I'm missing.


What did you end up going with? Would you be able to post any pics of how you set up?
 
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kruler

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What did you end up going with? Would you be able to post any pics of how you set up?

I went with the Lifeguard Aquatics 55w and am very happy with it. Excellent build quality and good value. My tank has been wet for almost 6 months and I haven’t had any ugly stage or other common growing pains. I attribute this mostly to the UV. You can see how I set it up in my build thread:

 

Memisis

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I hope you can’t get one to big. I have a 55 watt on a 24 gal nano cube. Only runs 2 hours a day one hour after lights off and one hour 6 hours after lights off. Otherwise as stated it will heat up your water. Really just there tp make me feel better but know I can kill anything water borne in the tank
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@mattmanhow long have you been flipping it off and on like this? I'm considering doing the same on my lifegard 55w but im concerned about bulb life. I want to turn it off 2 days a week so I can dose phytoplankton.

Have you had any issues with your and what time frame have you had it? Thx
 

Mattman1977

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@mattmanhow long have you been flipping it off and on like this? I'm considering doing the same on my lifegard 55w but im concerned about bulb life. I want to turn it off 2 days a week so I can dose phytoplankton.

Have you had any issues with your and what time frame have you had it? Thx
Since around February I suppose. Not long enough to know if there’s gonna be any longevity issues with it being on and off. Runs 1.5 hours a night around midnight and I turn it on after water change for a few hours. Is it doing anything? I’m not 100% sure but I haven’t had to clean my glass other then Coraline algae since so that’s a win by itself. Oh and 0 bacteria blooms as you would suspect. The main reason for the setup was to slow the Dino down some until the tank could balance out and it did a great job at that. Yes it should of been a smaller unit as it over heats the water if left on to long but with this being a temporary tank I am trying to only buy stuff I can move up to one of my larger tanks once I’m ready for it.

hope this helps
Matt
 

Miller535

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Do you guys just get the fittings from home Depot?

You can, but I bought mine on Bulk Reef Supply.

Especially since they have these, which are SOOOOO much easier to use then the metal home depot/lowes clamps.

 

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