Can’t keep any fish alive for longer than a week.

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Jay Hemdal

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May have already been mentioned but did you check salinty of the shipment water? Often times I find the water the first are shipped in to be much lower than 1.026

Agreed that is a huge issue now days - dealers often keep their fish systems at 1.020 to save on salt costs, (and mistakenly, as a disease preventative) and most people keep their tanks at full salinity, even if they don't have invertebrates. However, in cases where the fish were exposed to a too high/fast of a salinity rise, the fish die within 48 hours, usually within 12 to 24. In this case, the OP said the fish were lasting for a week or so. That tends to rule out acclimation issues.

Jay
 
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dans85

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May have already been mentioned but did you check salinty of the shipment water? Often times I find the water the first are shipped in to be much lower than 1.026
Admittedly I did not check bag parameters at all. I temp acclimated and netted into the tank. I’m not sure how much of an effect it had on them, but I’m sure it did to some extent. I’ll be changing my methods for the future.
 
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dans85

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Agreed that is a huge issue now days - dealers often keep their fish systems at 1.020 to save on salt costs, (and mistakenly, as a disease preventative) and most people keep their tanks at full salinity, even if they don't have invertebrates. However, in cases where the fish were exposed to a too high/fast of a salinity rise, the fish die within 48 hours, usually within 12 to 24. In this case, the OP said the fish were lasting for a week or so. That tends to rule out acclimation issues.

Jay
It kind of depends on the fish. A few were lasting longer, but most died within 48 hours. I’ll definitely be changing my acclimation methods for the future.
 

SteveMM62Reef

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Do you have Copper, Lead, Benzenes in your water? Other heavy metals? For a while we only drank bottled water. A Local Dry Cleaner, decided it was just too expensive to have their old cleaning fluids picked up, so they just dumped it out the back door. The State Health Department was supposed to be doing regular checks on the Private Water Wells in the area.
 

violetjones

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Hi Dan,

You issue is likely either stray voltage, water contamination, or low oxygen.

You should send your water in for an ICP test. They sell triton tests on Amazon.
You should send your water in for an ICP test. They sell triton tests on Amazon. This will help rule out water contamination.

Also do you have lots of surface agitation at the top of the tank? Could you please post a video of your flow including a top down looking into the tank. Also do you have a protein skimmer? This will help us rule out the oxygen issue.
 

JC1977

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Hi Dan,

You issue is likely either stray voltage, water contamination, or low oxygen.

You should send your water in for an ICP test. They sell triton tests on Amazon.
You should send your water in for an ICP test. They sell triton tests on Amazon. This will help rule out water contamination.

Also do you have lots of surface agitation at the top of the tank? Could you please post a video of your flow including a top down looking into the tank. Also do you have a protein skimmer? This will help us rule out the oxygen issue.
Sorry couldn’t help but notice you have this identical quote on another thread. It’s one thing if the information is relevant concerning both questions but having read both threads it sounds like separate issues. So I guess my point is maybe you should let the more knowledgeable members answer the questions and give proper guidance for their specific issues instead of confusing people looking for help. I hope you’re not planning on copying and pasting this quote anytime someone has a sick fish.
 

violetjones

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Sorry couldn’t help but notice you have this identical quote on another thread. It’s one thing if the information is relevant concerning both questions but having read both threads it sounds like separate issues. So I guess my point is maybe you should let the more knowledgeable members answer the questions and give proper guidance for their specific issues instead of confusing people looking for help. I hope you’re not planning on copying and pasting this quote anytime someone has a sick fish.
Not sure who you are?? But i never copy and pasted this anywhere. I just took time out of my day to write this. Also I think it is a bit strange you are targeting me to telling me to “keep my mouth shut” when there are several other members saying the exact same thing I am saying. Is it because I am a girl?
 

violetjones

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Sorry couldn’t help but notice you have this identical quote on another thread. It’s one thing if the information is relevant concerning both questions but having read both threads it sounds like separate issues. So I guess my point is maybe you should let the more knowledgeable members answer the questions and give proper guidance for their specific issues instead of confusing people looking for help. I hope you’re not planning on copying and pasting this quote anytime someone has a sick fish.
I just reviewed my posts and it showed that this exact message was posted on another thread at the exact same time - somehow the forum glitched. Anyway this post was intended for this person hence me saying “hi dan” The other person isn’t named dan on the other thread.

Like i said don’t know how it happened. Regardless my information above is accurate and I don’t appreciate you telling me to let “more knowledgable members” speak…
 
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xdcbenoitxd

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Hey guys! I’m pulling my hair out here and I’m needing some help. Tank is a 300 gallon with sump and plumbed in frag tank. The system is right at 2 months old and was started with dry/mined rock and fritz turbostart. So far I have tried fish from approximately 5 different suppliers both local and shipped in and I’ve only had one fish make it past the one week mark. Parameters are as follows and have maintained.

NH3-0
NO2-0
NO3-approximately 20
Alk-7/8
Mag-1500
Cal-460

I know calcium and magnesium are on the high end, but I can’t imagine that having an effect on fish?

the first round of fish purchased were a naso tang, blue eye bristle tooth, sailfin tang, clown pair, Christmas wrasse, and fire fish. Fish were added approximately 1 week after adding turbostart. All fish were dead within a week with the exception of the clowns. Both clown’s developed bulging eyes and were removed from the tank and treated with API Furan-2. Both clowns went through a full treatment and seemed to recover. A few days later the bulging eyes came back and they were treated again. After returning to the display both died within a week. UV was installed about a week before the second round of fish were added. UV was added as a preventative measure. There was a bacterial bloom happening when the UV was added.

The second round of fish added were 2 Scopas tangs and a small pair of clowns. These fish were added about 3 weeks after the others. Both clowns have died as well as one scopas.

last week a blonde naso and yellow eyed Kole tang were added. The Kole tang was dead yesterday afternoon and the naso died this afternoon. Naso had bulging eyes and damaged skin on its face.

I have seen no signs of aggression from any fish. All fish have been alert with bright clear eyes, eating and absolutely zero signs of disease or infection prior to dying. I have checked for stray voltage and I have checked all pumps and powerheads for and damage. Saltwater has been made with 0 tds ro/di. Tank was first started with aquaforest reef and water changes have been made with IO or RC. I’m at my wits end here and I’m not sure what is going on. If anyone can offer up any help I would be extremely grateful. If I missed something or if there are any additional question I will happily answer. Thanks!
Did you check that your RODI was not having issues or improperly plumbed in ?
 

jabberwock

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I just reviewed my posts and it showed that this exact message was posted on another thread at the exact same time - somehow the forum glitched. Anyway this post was intended for this person hence me saying “hi dan” The other person isn’t named dan on the other thread.

Like i said don’t know how it happened. Regardless my information above is accurate and I don’t appreciate you telling me to let “more knowledgable members” speak…
Totally agree with you.
 

JC1977

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I just reviewed my posts and it showed that this exact message was posted on another thread at the exact same time - somehow the forum glitched. Anyway this post was intended for this person hence me saying “hi dan” The other person isn’t named dan on the other thread.

Like i said don’t know how it happened. Regardless my information above is accurate and I don’t appreciate you telling me to let “more knowledgable members” speak…
You know what you’re right my apologies. I was just concerned about people getting the right information for their questions but after looking again I suppose I’m in the wrong. Having said that please don’t start with the “it’s because you’re a girl” stuff. Had nothing to do with that at all.
 

Rmckoy

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Two concerns I see as mention on false readings - The api tests which are notorious for false readings often showing lower numbers than actual. To determine the accuracy, take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.

Low Ph a possibility but not crazy low.

Acclimation which was another suspect seems very short. Temp acclimation is a first step and not an acclimation.
Just alone, you would have floated bag to equalize temperature and you want to empty bag and fish into a CLEAN bucket and they add tank water until AT MINIMUM you matched the salinity in the bucket with that of the tank. I add a cup of water every 15 mins until you have assured salinity, ph have been equalized
My acclimation method (not the only one out there):
I generally:
Float for 20-30 minutes
Transfer fish and water into a clean bucket
Then . . . .
Measure the Ph, salinity and temperature of the bag water. If you can, make up some water in a container that has exactly the same measurements as the bag readings and move the fish right over, then you can add a cup of tank water to bucket every 15 mins 6 times (almost 1.5 hours)
Then check salinity in bucket and compare to tank. If no match or very close, add a cup of water every few mins until youve reached salinity and trap fish in same cup and pour off water and release into display. Release under LOW light before lights out. Fish in shipped bags produce carbon dioxide and ammonia. The carbon dioxide lowers the pH of the water in the bag, That in turn makes the ammonia non-toxic to the fish.
I always thought shipped fish in bags for a lengthy period of time . Once the bag is opened and exposed to air the ammonia spikes and why a drip method isn’t suggested
 

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