Built like a tank: my Innovative Marine Nuvo EXT 100 build
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BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
plastic shims under corners of stand
nickng
Active Member
Thanks, by the way anyone fitted a suitable fleece roller to the RFS 39 sump that comes with the tank?
Also is the black acrylic wall completely glued to the back glass and will not detach over time?
Can anyone who has the tank for awhile comment if any problem arises later one with the acrylic weir+back wall glued to the glass.
Also do they use standard ie imperial instead of metric bulkheads for the overflow box?
I'm so close to pulling the trigger on the IM100 ext. I like the fact that it's a bean animal overflow and external overflow and has two separate return pipes. That way I can easily get close to 1000Gph flow thru the system.
Appreciate any help in this regard
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
someone modified the sump to accommodate a fleece. They dremmeled it to fit. I believe they did the Klird4
Someone also had an issue with separation with the back glass but IM was very quick to replace it.
You'd have to do a search for the threads.
nickng
Active Member
Yikes, - Someone also had an issue with separation with the back glass but IM was very quick to replace it. -
Do you mean the entire glass back wall wall falling out? that's serious. Or was it just the acrylic but no leaks.
I want to avoid a situation like the redsea tanks
Ohdo you mean this thread
Advice for innovative Marine SR120 acrylic wall separation.
Ok, so bought an almost new IM120 from local hobbyists. As he was emptying, presumably because he emptied front chamber completely before emptying the back chamber, the acrylic separated from reinforcement glass wall behind it in three places (see pic for one such deformation). So, need to...
www.reef2reef.com
That's a bit different. the acrylic wall is a sump wall and for a AIO or intenal overflow. The external just has the acrylic glued to the glass back wall
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
Yikes, - Someone also had an issue with separation with the back glass but IM was very quick to replace it. -
Do you mean the entire glass back wall wall falling out? that's serious. Or was it just the acrylic but no leaks.
I want to avoid a situation like the redsea tanks
Ohdo you mean this thread
Advice for innovative Marine SR120 acrylic wall separation.
Ok, so bought an almost new IM120 from local hobbyists. As he was emptying, presumably because he emptied front chamber completely before emptying the back chamber, the acrylic separated from reinforcement glass wall behind it in three places (see pic for one such deformation). So, need to...
That's a bit different. the acrylic wall is a sump wall and for a AIO or intenal overflow. The external just has the acrylic glued to the glass back wall
Innovative Marine warranty
Has anyone dealt with Innovative marine warranty? Noticed a leak tonight on the back panel. Tanks only a few months old
www.reef2reef.com
Roller for the Innovative Marine RFS 22
Are you trying to fit an actual reefmat in there? What size? Would you hang it on the size of the sump, and then have 1-2 lines plumb into it? If so I would be very interested in seeing pictures of your progress. Yup, I am using a ReefMat 250. It'll hang on the side and open to the left...
www.reef2reef.com
took me a little while to find them.
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My 170 was off o er a 1/2" on one side. I used wood and plastic shims. I then used caulking tape to hide the shims and keep water from going under the tank. I used same tape to seal the panel the sump sits on to keep water from going to the floor.
Some have replaced the supplied sump plastic sheet with wood but imo its not needed if you do this.
I shimmed the bottom crossbars. This make the stand very stable with no movement and I still dont have water in it yet.
Also the issue with the back plasic lifting off may have been helped by a gap between the black plastic and the glass. I filled mine in with black silicone. Im not sure what they use but it looks like standard silicone when looking into the crack. Ideal would be to use a 2 part epoxy instead of silicone.
Some have replaced the supplied sump plastic sheet with wood but imo its not needed if you do this.
I shimmed the bottom crossbars. This make the stand very stable with no movement and I still dont have water in it yet.
Also the issue with the back plasic lifting off may have been helped by a gap between the black plastic and the glass. I filled mine in with black silicone. Im not sure what they use but it looks like standard silicone when looking into the crack. Ideal would be to use a 2 part epoxy instead of silicone.
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
do we have a fill date scheduled?My 170 was off o er a 1/2" on one side. I used wood and plastic shims. I then used caulking tape to hide the shims and keep water from going under the tank. I used same tape to seal the panel the sump sits on to keep water from going to the floor.
Some have replaced the supplied sump plastic sheet with wood but imo its not needed if you do this.
I shimmed the bottom crossbars. This make the stand very stable with no movement and I still dont have water in it yet.
Also the issue with the back plasic lifting off may have been helped by a gap between the black plastic and the glass. I filled mine in with black silicone. Im not sure what they use but it looks like standard silicone when looking into the crack. Ideal would be to use a 2 part epoxy instead of silicone.
BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
I do not think these issues would make me rethink buying it. IM stands by their warranty and is quick at resolving which is important. And not like the RedSea failures. So far I'm OK with socks. ReefMats have occasional issues too where they suddenly advance and waste a whole roll. Changing a sock every 4 days isn't bad. I bought extras to wash later.Yikes, - Someone also had an issue with separation with the back glass but IM was very quick to replace it. -
Do you mean the entire glass back wall wall falling out? that's serious. Or was it just the acrylic but no leaks.
I want to avoid a situation like the redsea tanks
Ohdo you mean this thread
Advice for innovative Marine SR120 acrylic wall separation.
Ok, so bought an almost new IM120 from local hobbyists. As he was emptying, presumably because he emptied front chamber completely before emptying the back chamber, the acrylic separated from reinforcement glass wall behind it in three places (see pic for one such deformation). So, need to...
That's a bit different. the acrylic wall is a sump wall and for a AIO or intenal overflow. The external just has the acrylic glued to the glass back wall
Wont be until June. I need to decide on my frag system. I was going to go with a larger system but I just went back to the ext 50 as it is the only tank that will fit the corner of the room. I need to get it ordered before June as I want both wet with TBS base rock to start.
Yea I will be running mesh socks.
I have 200,300,400 micron mesh and a few felt ones if needed.
nickng
Active Member
Thank you v much looks like it is caused by water creeping into any space between acrylic wall. Acrylic distortionInnovative Marine warranty
Has anyone dealt with Innovative marine warranty? Noticed a leak tonight on the back panel. Tanks only a few months old
Roller for the Innovative Marine RFS 22
Are you trying to fit an actual reefmat in there? What size? Would you hang it on the size of the sump, and then have 1-2 lines plumb into it? If so I would be very interested in seeing pictures of your progress. Yup, I am using a ReefMat 250. It'll hang on the side and open to the left...
took me a little while to find them.
good to know IM stand by their products. Also I see that they cure their silicon for 14 days. It maybe a different silicon than Red Sea. I read on a German forum that the correct silicon will take 14 days to cure and in that forum there is some hearsay controversy about the silicon used by Red Sea.
I like the IM external systems. Not too worried about the sump since the sumps in all the other brands are pretty much rubbish anyway.
Thanks everyone for all the answers. And sorry to side track this thread.
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BubblesandSqueak
Valuable Member
thats a long time. perfect though for more thoughts on what you want. I'm looking forward to getting more rock from them.
Captain45
Community Member
@JayM any luck with the Bulkheads? Im in a similar boat. I'm redoing the return plumbing on my EXT100 cause the depth required for the return line+bulkheads put my tank too far out away from the wall. I want to redo them with Street 90 elbows and shave some inches off but I cant find new bulkheads to fit the drilled holes.EXT100. It’s less than a year old. The 3 holes for the drain measure the same as the OD of 1” PVC pipe. “Normal” bulkheads for 1” PVC are way too big and won’t work without drilling bigger holes. IM replied to my email yesterday and sent a pic of what they use.
They obviously aren’t the usual type of bulkhead, and have been terribly difficult to source anywhere but IM and Fiji Cube. I found a set of 4 on Amazon for $20. Hopefully they’re correct and I won’t need to spend $10 plus tax and shipping each at IM.
I measured with calipers and the return holes are slightly over 25mm or about 1". Every normal bulkhead on Bulkreef etc require over 31mm
Nope. I found some on Amazon that looked the the same, but they turned out to be metric. Looks like IM is the only place to easily get a hold of them. I think they told me they are about $10 each.
OP
OP
Much has happened, time for an update.
Assembling that stand. It was simple, the instructions are easy to follow. Wear work gloves (not latex), there are sharp edges and even aluminum burrs that can cut your skin.
Almost done. Make sure the frame is square before you tighten all the screws. The stand comes with a proper driver for the job.
Onto the next step; adding my own touches to the stand.
Assembling that stand. It was simple, the instructions are easy to follow. Wear work gloves (not latex), there are sharp edges and even aluminum burrs that can cut your skin.
Almost done. Make sure the frame is square before you tighten all the screws. The stand comes with a proper driver for the job.
Onto the next step; adding my own touches to the stand.
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