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MSOEME2009

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Back from NC. Ammonia sitting around 0.75-1ppm. Nitrites >=5 ppm (not sure if this is ok, from what I have seen it’s mixed), nitrates are trace. Barely detectable, most likely because of chaeto.

ebf9179c281ae70739be479c4d127eb4.jpg


The 4 hour period is working good, no dead chaeto yet and has gotten a little larger. Hope the next batch of bacteria start to take hold. Skimmer has broken in well too will produce a dark dry skim but not much to skim. Just sits at the end of the unit. I did buy a somatic s60 though... was on sale at BRS and wanted something larger. Should be here Tuesday. I plan on putting an air line to my attic which is well vented because I hear the air draw on that thing is large and loud. Plus from what I’ve seen, my pH will go up.

One weird thing I need to address is that when I got back from my trip, my overflow must have gotten choked and the display level was way up and the ATO bucket was almost gone. Seemed something got stuck in the gate valve and I have a strainer on the inlet. Opened it and let it flow and it’s good again. My Durso emergency took care of it but the level increases a few inches.

Yes I’m a mechanical engineer. I specialize in fluid and thermodynamics.
 
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Little update. Got my S60 from BRS.
61a3d292ed430de26461fb8a6427d484.jpg


Unfortunately it was broken in transit. I only needed the small plastic nut that threads into the pump.

803d3b8e0d0c88a983ea33ebb10f6bf6.jpg


Made me send the whole thing back but they were great to deal with. We will see when I get the replacement.

Nitrites are still high but I can run around 1.5 PPM ammonia in 24 hours. My nitrate is around 0.25 PPM so I upped the refugium light from 9 PM to 1 AM to 3 AM. It’s grown from around a golf ball to my fist. It’s nice and dark green.

Will continue to dose to 2 PPM once it hits 0 again tomorrow.

I also finished my RODI makeup end stand.

ca2425eff3b67d3f48d27b370bc6f2a6.jpg
 
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I didn't end up adding anymore ammonia. I am waiting for my nitrites to get lower. Still sky high. Instead I added a small pinch of food to the tank today to keep the nitrosomonas happy by allowing a little ammonia to form. I don't want to starve these guys while my lazy nitrobacter decide to do something with all the nitrite. While taking all the skin off the outside I noticed some light brown on one of my rock faces. Probably diatoms, looks like just a light brown coating on some spots.

However on the other side I found this:

IMG_0928.jpg

;Vomit I'm surprised anything can grow with no lights and the light blocked out.
 
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So I upped the flow to "right before sandstorm" level after I saw that 'stuff' on the rock. I manually removed what I could and the rest seemed to blow it away. Just a little discoloration now left.

Chaeto is about the size of a softball. The fuge bottom is getting some nice brown on the sides/bottom/egg crate. I removed the sponge between the fuge and the return pump. Didn't see a need for something to clean as I don't have micro bubbles at the moment.

Still don't have my S60... BRS took it back no problem, but out of stock for a month... Went to premium aquatics, should be here tomorrow!

I ran an outside air line to my skimmer too. I had a lot of extra flex 5/8" laying around so I ran it to my window. I made a spacer for the bottom out of a 2x4 cut exactly to the frame width and put it in with some gasket material I had. Then I used REAL duct tape (silver stuff) to seal it up. No resistance in a 5/8 tube, I can breath through it. I then used a piece of 1/2 slipped into the 5/8 and then a piece of 3/8 slipped into the 1/2 to terminate at the skimmer inlet.

So far I've seen an increase of pH from 7.75 to 7.95. Overall, success (and cost $0).

Nitrite still purple. I stopped adding ammonia about a week ago. I've been doing a small amount of fish food every other day to keep some ammonia level going with other nutrients. I read that the type of bacteria we are trying to propagate can't produce a "mucus" or film to stick to surfaces with straight ammonia dosing. I don't know if it's true or not (will find article) and that by adding fish food we promote the growth of a different strain which has a symbiotic relationship which allows the bacteria to "stick" to the rock/sand/marine pure/ect.

Either way, nitrite is still high so the tank is still dark. No rush, hopefully it goes away in a few weeks. Should I get a bottle of bio-spira?
 
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Parameter update:

NH3/4 = 0 (Red Sea)
NO2 = 5+ (Purple) (API)
NO3 = 50 PPM (Red Sea)
dKH = 6 (Hanna)
PO4 = 0-0.01 PPM (Red Sea)
pH = 7.8-8.0 (BRS Dual Junction w/ RKL) -depending on time of day

I will probably do a partial water change tonight (5 gallons) to help bring NO2/3 down. Obviously my NO2 bacteria are getting to work since that NO3 is way up since I last tested.

I upped the light in the refugium to run: 1900 to 900

Cycle is going! Won't buy any more bacteria, no need.

Fuge is gettin' nasty!

IMG_0941.jpg IMG_0942.jpg

New skimmer will be here today!
 

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A water change sounds good, waiting for the bacteria population to get hold is great thinking! ;)
 
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GRRRRR..... VERTEXXXXXXXXXXXX

Ich verfluche den Tag, an dem Sie geboren wurden!

Guess what!? Premium is out of stock too... not meant to be. Hopefully they (Vertex) can send a new part. Premium checking, Luke was great to talk to.

Not sure how well super glue will hold this break. Looks like someone who did the initial assembly was on steroids and over-tightened the top plate down. There is a gap between the plate and the body which tried to pull the acrylic rod up.

Hopefully Vertex can get me a replacement part... Now the broken BRS one was better ;Blackeye

Overall though, I did learn that @premiumaquatics (whom I got the sand through too) and @Bulk Reef Supply (most everything else b/c of such great youtube videos) are great to deal with after the fact. +1

IMG_0944.jpg IMG_0945.jpg IMG_0946.jpg

That iPhone optical zoom tho...
 
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I repaired the bubble plate on the 60S while waiting for the replacement from Vertex. Not sure how long it would take and wanted to begin the break-in while the load was low.

So far it's been running for around 24 hours (12 in vinegar/RODI) and 12 in the tank. So far this thing is a beast. I did make some modifications to it though. Mainly it was loud for me (because this thing gobbles up air!). I skipped the air muffler (but it's still in to plug the wedge pipe) and went direct to outside air. It's super quiet now. Sounds like low grade static on a TV in the background. The Vortech's are as loud because it's a low grade variable speed hum instead of constant higher pitch white noise. I could do a better job sealing the back of the cabinet up (and will) now that wires are where they should be. However, with good wire organization, comes the pain to remove equipment. Taking out the WS-1 I had to remove all the zip ties and loom ;Meh. Since I will replace the bubble plate assembly when the new one comes, I didn't bother re-doing it at the moment.

Secondly I'm working on a water change station. I did the first water change, and buckets were a pain. My original station was in the garage (on the other side of the house on a different floor). Pumping this would be a pain, and it gets very hot (100+) very often in there. Not good for storing salt water.

Since the shower in my office bathroom gets used about 4 times per year, I am sticking both my RODI & Saltwater BRUTE cans in the shower. I'll fill 30 gallons of RODI to have on tap, move it with my little pump between the two units, have the second container mixed and I have a hose connected to my pump setup which I'll bring to the tank. I have a remote outlet controller that has been sitting on the shelf I'll use to start/stop the pump from the tank.

I don't think my wife will honestly notice, I can't remember the last time she went in there.

Nitrite still purple, Nitrate still building (was 35 yesterday after water change, probably at 50 again now...)

I put the bubble sponge back into the sump while it breaks in. There were micro-bubbles last night, but not this morning when I woke up. I opened up the air valve a tiny bit more too.

Here's my review of the Somatic 60S:

First Impression: Big (but not what the "footprint" says it is). The footprint is more like 6 x 8 not 9 x 9. It looks like it could handle a much larger bio-load then what it's rated for. There is a lot of surface area in this beast. The acrylic is sold and the o-rings are nice and create a tight seal. Obviously they have shipping issues. I've ordered 2 of them, both arrived broken. They need to address this. They pre-assembly pieces, and this is what breaks in transit. I can easily screw in the bubble plate if I knew it would come in tact. Keep in mind, there are no directions with this unit. None. Watch the BRS Video...

Assembly: Straight forward. Run the tubing, assembly the neck, install venturi, and insert silencer. Done. At first I did not install the valve because I knew I was going to use an external air line.

Operation: Lots of movement! This Sicce pump blasts air/water. On vinegar it shot out the top immediately. Luckily there is a skimmate fitting for an external drain. Take this off while running it, it allows all the water to drain back into the bucket. Also do not use the cap, it will bubble off. Adjust the pipe to 100% (which is confusing because the numbers do not intuitively line up). There is a bolt looking at it from the side which holds the wedge pipe in place. Do not line the number up with this. Line it up 90 degrees away or perpendicular (on the outside) with this nut. Yes, it confused me too... Let it run on vinegar/RODI to break in. I used 12 hours; you will see a reduction in bubbles getting to the cup. However, micro-bubbles will be crazy high!

The air intake is on the loud side, but installing the valve makes it louder. But I'm not well versed in the industry so I don't know what "loud" is. Hooking it up to an external or remote air line silences the unit. All I hear is slight bubbles from the actual pump operation.

Break in-was quick. I ran it in RODI only and rinsed parts. Put it on a stand in my sump (having it run at 8" currently; my fixed water level is 9.5" in that chamber). I installed the external air line with the valve and cranked the valve down to almost closed (you will cavitate pump if it's closed, it will sound like rocks in the pump). Still set on 100% (lowest amount of water in body); and low air you will get the bubbles to break just at the neck.

Reaction: After only 5 minutes, I already started to see "different" bubbles. This is the organics building up. Woke up this morning and there is junk inside the neck. Mind you there is only bacteria and algae in my system currently. I am also seeing the highest pH since initial fill with this because of the amount of air it pulls. I could only imagine it would be better with a CO2 scrubber (which I don't see myself doing).

So far I am pleased with the skimmer for the price of $179.99; however the shipping headaches were not fun and in no way BRS or Premium's fault. I initially ordered it almost a month before it was operating because of this and I'm still running on a temporary part.

I would recommend this skimmer if you have a remote air line. I do think it's noisy without it, but could be muffled if inside a cabinet. I only ran it outside without the line. The WS-1 did great and pulled out skimmate. However the o-ring doesn't create a bubble tight seal and was under-sized for my system.

IMG_0948.jpg
 
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Check out this chaeto mess! Pretty soon it'll be the whole fuge! Nitrites still puple (*** ;Meh).

IMG_0967.jpg

I will do a water change tonight (big one). There might be just be massive amounts of nitrite in this tank since it's been a month of over 5 ppm.

I added some carbon in a little bag to the pre-pump chamber. I cleaned the fuge out and it looked like iced tea in my display. A hours later with ROX 0.8 and it's crystal clear (and heavy skimmate).
 

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Check out this chaeto mess! Pretty soon it'll be the whole fuge! Nitrites still puple (*** ;Meh).

IMG_0967.jpg

I will do a water change tonight (big one). There might be just be massive amounts of nitrite in this tank since it's been a month of over 5 ppm.

I added some carbon in a little bag to the pre-pump chamber. I cleaned the fuge out and it looked like iced tea in my display. A hours later with ROX 0.8 and it's crystal clear (and heavy skimmate).

Sorry too hear the tank still hasn't stabilized. Seems like a big water change might help. Curious, did you cure your rock?
 
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I did not pre-cure my rock (my bad, sat in a cardboard box for two months).

I did a complete DT water change. Left the sump alone, probably had 15 gallons down below. I expected nitrite to drop to a pretty low level afterwords and.... PURPLE!?!?!? WTFBBQOMFGJEZUS!

I guess my nitrite was SO high, that 30 gallons of fresh (Red Sea Blue Bucket tested at 0 obviously, dKh at 8.4 fyi [was checking b/c DT was at 6]) diluted with 15 in the sump is still high.

I picked up a bottle of bio spira today in case the WC didn't help. I just dumped it in and turned the skimmer off. I added some ammonia too (probably 0.25 ppm) worth to keep bacteria happy for a little while.

I purchased a bottle of Purple Helix Coralline Algae in a Bottle (let the flames begin) which also has bacteria in it. I intended to just wait for that instead of the IO bio spira, but I had to run to the store for the dogs and saw the small 30 gallon bottle which just happened to fall into my cart.

We will just keep chugging away.

Here is a picture of my no more bucket WC setup (wife still doesn't know it's in the bathroom; +1 for curtains). My python screws right into the PVC system via nylon 5/8" tube to garden hose connection. This connects to the pump outlet which has 2 ball valves on it for diverting the recirculating loop. FYI 1 VERY full garbage can is 1 DT lol... I got nervous... RSBB mixed very well, 0 precipitant.

IMG_0969.jpg IMG_0970.jpg IMG_0968.jpg
 

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Hope that thing settles soon. I’d love to see it with some livestock!

Love the direction your headed with the tank! I’ll be following.
 
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I changed out the RODI container with something new. I didn’t like how I didn’t know where my level was. Not to mention the bucket under the end table was harder to get at then I wanted. This is so much easier to fill and looks better (I will add something to the top to give height). Plus the additional volume gives me two weeks of water!

I did have to add a syphon break to it though which is inside the sump area.

e669281c74141a2fc2c644e994429f69.jpg


I got it on wayfair and used a coupon to get even more off. [emoji1303]
 

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I changed out the RODI container with something new. I didn’t like how I didn’t know where my level was. Not to mention the bucket under the end table was harder to get at then I wanted. This is so much easier to fill and looks better (I will add something to the top to give height). Plus the additional volume gives me two weeks of water!

I did have to add a syphon break to it though which is inside the sump area.

e669281c74141a2fc2c644e994429f69.jpg


I got it on wayfair and used a coupon to get even more off. [emoji1303]


I agree! looks so much better. Great idea.
 
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Time for a happy dance!

24 hrs from purple to blue. Not sure of coincidence but I will say bio spira gets 2 thumbs up.

download.jpg


Let's dose some ammonia! Nitrate tested at 2-4 PPM prior to ammonia addition. Chaeto is working like a beast. It's getting nice and dense now and developing more green than light green. Will test PO4 again, has been 0 every time. Chaeto eats up any available from extra ghost feeding every other day.

Time for some ugly! I'll probably start the lights at 5% for 4 hours a day to help start the diatom/algae.

I'm thinking of waiting until the diatom bloom is over to add fish.
 
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Well the tank failed the test. This thing eats ammonia alive but nitrite just won’t go away. Looks like more waiting.

If there is one thing I learned it’s to pre-cycle your rock for a LONG time.
 
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