BRS Mixed Bed Di Resign/Anion Di Resign

Bodyguard

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Hello All,

How can you tell when it is time to change out the resign media in the BRS Mixed Bed Di Resign/Cation Di Resign canisters? My Anion Di Resign canister (middle canister) is easy to tell as it changes to orange as its depleted. The other two I'm not entirely sure. I do have a triple TDS meter. Line 1(cation) reads 13/ Line 2(anion) reads 0, and line 3(mixed bed) reads 0 as well.

Thanks for the feedback

BG
 

KrisReef

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Wild guess, based upon your presumed flow going 1-3? First removes only one charge of particle, the 2nd showing zero means that the ions have been stripped. If line one goes up and you get led through on line two (no longer reading zero) then the cation is starting to fail. IF line one remains low and line 2 is no longer zero, then the anion is starting to fail. Change those when the readings show blow by. The mixed bed is your back up and should last a long while if you keep on top of the anion/cation discharge readings.
 

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Hello All,

How can you tell when it is time to change out the resign media in the BRS Mixed Bed Di Resign/Cation Di Resign canisters? My Anion Di Resign canister (middle canister) is easy to tell as it changes to orange as its depleted. The other two I'm not entirely sure. I do have a triple TDS meter. Line 1(cation) reads 13/ Line 2(anion) reads 0, and line 3(mixed bed) reads 0 as well.

Thanks for the feedback

BG

Are you sure they are meant to change color? Not all resin is color indicating.
 
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Are you sure they are meant to change color? Not all resin is color indicating.
I have the 7-stage RODI unit from BRS ordered straight from them. So I'm assuming they packed the canisters with the color changing resigns that they advertise. Stage 2 is changing to Amber (Anion) so I'm hoping the other two stages change color as well.
 
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Wild guess, based upon your presumed flow going 1-3? First removes only one charge of particle, the 2nd showing zero means that the ions have been stripped. If line one goes up and you get led through on line two (no longer reading zero) then the cation is starting to fail. IF line one remains low and line 2 is no longer zero, then the anion is starting to fail. Change those when the readings show blow by. The mixed bed is your back up and should last a long while if you keep on top of the anion/cation discharge readings.
Flow is 75psi through the RODI system. Gotcha. So as long as line 2 remains 0 I'm okay. The Anion resign is indeed changing color to amber. I have another 3" of usable anion. The other stages (1 and 3) don't appear to be changing colors so assuming they are good.
 

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I have the 7-stage RODI unit from BRS ordered straight from them. So I'm assuming they packed the canisters with the color changing resigns that they advertise.

If it's BRS branded it should be color indicating, I don't think they sell non color indicating anymore?

What did your cation cartridge used to read when freshly installed still ~13 TDS?

If so your water may simply be heavy on anionic compounds and you might not be exhausting the cation or mixed beds yet.
 

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Flow is 75psi through the RODI system. Gotcha. So as long as line 2 remains 0 I'm okay. The Anion resign is indeed changing color to amber. I have another 3" of usable anion. The other stages (1 and 3) don't appear to be changing colors so assuming they are good.

Yep see the post I just made. Your source water is probably just heavy on anions which is why you don't yet notice a change on the others.
 
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If it's BRS branded it should be color indicating, I don't think they sell non color indicating anymore?

What did your cation cartridge used to read when freshly installed still ~13 TDS?

If so your water may simply be heavy on anionic compounds and you might not be exhausting the cation or mixed beds yet.

Yeah line 1 has been around 13 for sometime. Believe on the initial install is was around 20 (bout 10 months ago).
 

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My RODI goes through more Anion than Cation. See what the reading is next time you change your Cation for a baseline.
 
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If one needs to be changed, then I change them all to simply things.

While this is the easiest approach, and it won't give you bad results just keep in mind you are throwing away cartridges that still have usable life in them, and also $$.

In the OPs case for this situation it would mean throwing away a perfectly fine mixed bed and what seems like a minimally used cation cartridge.

An extra ~$30 just because depending on where you puchased the cartridges from and whether or not you packed them yourself or not.

Yeah line 1 has been around 13 for sometime. Believe on the initial install is was around 20 (bout 10 months ago).
If you haven't noticed it creeping up and anion is still reading 0 then that cation is fine.

Do you happen to know your TDS of your RO water? This will help you dial in better on the cation cartridge changes.
 

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While this is the easiest approach, and it won't give you bad results just keep in mind you are throwing away cartridges that still have usable life in them, and also $$.

In the OPs case for this situation it would mean throwing away a perfectly fine mixed bed and what seems like a minimally used cation cartridge.

An extra ~$30 just because depending on where you puchased the cartridges from and whether or not you packed them yourself or not.


If you haven't noticed it creeping up and anion is still reading 0 then that cation is fine.

Do you happen to know your TDS of your RO water? This will help you dial in better on the cation cartridge changes.
I agree with you, BUT, is it worth it? How much does a complete 3 resin package cost vs. the comfort of knowing it was all replaced. It cost $48+ tax to replace all 3 resins.
 

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I agree with you, BUT, is it worth it? How much does a complete 3 resin package cost vs. the comfort of knowing it was all replaced. It cost $48+_ tax to replace all 3 resins.

Not knocking you, I certainly do things that I know I waste $$ just for that piece of mind.

For me I've been around and worked with enough RO/DI systems professionally that I'm comfortable watching my meters and knowing what to check and how to check it.

There are definitely other aspects that I'm not as comfortable with and I'll gladly pay extra just to get that piece of mind.

Just making sure OP is aware of both sides. Replacing them all is one approach and using the tools available to only change when required is another.
 

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@Woodyman, the OP was talking resins, as far as the other 4 chambers, I change the 1st 3 every year or so and the RO membranes every 3 years.

Its all good @Woodyman, I will never fault someone for trying to save money. I just always try to error on the side of caution because of the money I have invested in my tank upgrade.
 

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If one needs to be changed, then I change them all to simply things.

Were you not referring to changing all 3 resins here?

Sorry if I misunderstood I thought you meant that when cation, anion, or mixed bed show as needing replaced you change all three not just the single one that has exhausted.
 

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@Woodyman, the OP was talking resins, as far as the other 4 chambers, I change the 1st 3 every year or so and the RO membranes every 3 years.

Its all good @Woodyman, I will never fault someone for trying to save money. I just always try to error on the side of caution because of the money I have invested in my tank upgrade.
Yep I was only referring to resin not any of the pre filters or RO.
 

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@Woodyman, the OP was talking resins, as far as the other 4 chambers, I change the 1st 3 every year or so and the RO membranes every 3 years.

Its all good @Woodyman, I will never fault someone for trying to save money. I just always try to error on the side of caution because of the money I have invested in my tank upgrade.

I can definitely feel and appreciate that sentiment I would gladly pay some extra $$ to avoid an issue with the tank.
 

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Hello All,

How can you tell when it is time to change out the resign media in the BRS Mixed Bed Di Resign/Cation Di Resign canisters? My Anion Di Resign canister (middle canister) is easy to tell as it changes to orange as its depleted. The other two I'm not entirely sure. I do have a triple TDS meter. Line 1(cation) reads 13/ Line 2(anion) reads 0, and line 3(mixed bed) reads 0 as well.

Thanks for the feedback

BG

Flow is 75psi through the RODI system. Gotcha. So as long as line 2 remains 0 I'm okay. The Anion resign is indeed changing color to amber. I have another 3" of usable anion. The other stages (1 and 3) don't appear to be changing colors so assuming they are good.

Your mixed bed canister is really just a back up in case you do not change your individual canisters before they are completely exhausted. I can not tell any color change in my cation after about 500 gallons while the anion is 2/3 color changed. I was expecting this since my water source is high in CO2 and my degassing chamber does not remove it all and the anion removes the remaining CO2.
 
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While this is the easiest approach, and it won't give you bad results just keep in mind you are throwing away cartridges that still have usable life in them, and also $$.

In the OPs case for this situation it would mean throwing away a perfectly fine mixed bed and what seems like a minimally used cation cartridge.

An extra ~$30 just because depending on where you puchased the cartridges from and whether or not you packed them yourself or not.


If you haven't noticed it creeping up and anion is still reading 0 then that cation is fine.

Do you happen to know your TDS of your RO water? This will help you dial in better on the cation cartridge changes.
I'm assuming the TDS 13 since my line 1 reads 13 into the Di portion of the system.
 

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