Brooklynella

leahfiish

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What is the procedure for a formalin dip? What concentration, how long, and how often do you dip for eradication?
 

melypr1985

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What is the procedure for a formalin dip? What concentration, how long, and how often do you dip for eradication?

You'll follow the directions for dosing on the bottle.
Formalin: Treats Brooklynella and provides temporary relief for Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium). Also may be used as temporary relief, or even as an alternative treatment, for worms such as flukes and black ich.

How To Treat - Formalin is very interesting because its potential is not fully known. In order for Formalin to be effective, the product you are using should contain 37% formaldehyde. Formalin-MS and Quick Cure are two products which meet this criteria. These two products also contain Formalin, but I have not been able to verify the percentage of formaldehyde used: Aquarium Solutions Ich-X and Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Because formulation can vary, it is best to always follow the dosage instructions on whatever bottle you are using.

Formalin is best administered in a bath solution for 30-45 minutes. The bath should be done in a large glass bowl or container, and temperature and salinity should match the tank the fish is coming from. A bucket is not advised as plastic may absorb some of the medication and then leach it back out during future use. It is imperative that you heavily aerate the bath solution for at least 30 minutes before and also during treatment to compensate for oxygen depletion. The fish should be placed in a premixed bath solution. DO NOT add more formalin after the fish is already in the bath.

It is important to always transfer the fish into a new/sterile QT post bath. Returning the fish to the same tank you took him out of will just result in reinfection. For Brooklynella, multiple baths may be required (so long as symptoms persist), but it’s important to give the fish 48 hours to recuperate between baths. Formalin has also been used as alternative treatment for external worms such as flukes and black ich. However, at least 2 baths are required (7 days apart) for the same reason described when using Prazipro. For all of the above, post treatment, the fish should not be returned to the same tank/water he came from to prevent reinfection.

You can dose formalin directly into a quarantine tank, but this can be risky due to the harshness of formalin and how quickly it can deplete the water of oxygen. Providing additional gas exchange to the QT is a must! A fish being treated must be monitored closely and should be removed if showing signs of distress - this applies when treating in QT or in the bath solution.

Pros - Treats or provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases. In some cases, formalin can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Formalin contains formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Therefore, precautions must be taken when using it. Preventing your skin from coming in contact with it by wearing waterproof gloves and not breathing in any fumes by wearing a face mask is highly recommended. Formalin also can be harsh on the fish's gills and will quickly deplete oxygen from the water. DO NOT USE if a fish has fresh open wounds. In some areas, the purchase of formalin is prohibited.
 

leahfiish

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Thanks you two, I have quick cure but it didn't provide directions for a bath, just for treating the while tank.
 

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If I am setting up qt tank w current dt water, can I add formalin there for purposes of killing off brook.

I plan to set up a 60 gallon qt, catch all fish, do a fw dip, then put in qt w dt water + formalin.

In terms of keeping qt water free of ammonia, can I simply change out large quantities of water w my dt, adding formalin to it? Or do I need to use fresh salt water?

Going to search now on how people maintain a qt
 

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Very useful for temporary relief of velvet; permanent eradication of brook. A LFS I advise has used it repeatedly to clear clownfish of brook. Acriflavine is not a carcinogen and even has some anti-bacterial properties (two advantages over formalin.) However, it's probably not as "strong" as formalin for treating external protozoa, and I've never tested it on worms (formalin will eradicate flukes, black ich, etc.)

Man, that's a tough call. I didn't realize Acriflavine was that good. I need to test it out.
 

melypr1985

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If I am setting up qt tank w current dt water, can I add formalin there for purposes of killing off brook.

I plan to set up a 60 gallon qt, catch all fish, do a fw dip, then put in qt w dt water + formalin.

In terms of keeping qt water free of ammonia, can I simply change out large quantities of water w my dt, adding formalin to it? Or do I need to use fresh salt water?

Going to search now on how people maintain a qt

It's best to use formalin in a dip, not in the QT itself. For brook, you would perform the dip and transfer the fish into a clean, sterile QT.... even if you have to clean the QT while they are in the dip.
 

jeff williams

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So in the thread it suggests metronidazole as a possible cure what would be the treatment using metroplex ? Dose tank or feed and how long would you suggest treating?
 
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Humblefish

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So in the thread it suggests metronidazole as a possible cure what would be the treatment using metroplex ? Dose tank or feed and how long would you suggest treating?

Dose every 48 hours for 10-14 days. WCs are fine but not necessary.
 
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Humblefish

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kesh

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D'oh! I forgot you were asking in the Brooklynella thread. :oops:

Unfortunately, you will need to go fallow for 6 weeks in the DT to starve brook out of there.
Few Questions to Clarify
1) Does Brook fall off the fish and go through life cycle like ich and velvet? It says, brook reproduces thru binary fusion. Does it mean, it reproduces directly on the fish and hence, there is no free swimming stage?

2) If you dont do the formalin or acriflavine and just administer metroplex and copper into the qt, will it be sufficient to eradicate the disease after 30 days, assuming the fish can wither the storm while the medication take effect?

3) Can Freshwater Dip help as alternative to formalin dip? (i've tried 37% formalin but its too harsh)
 
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Humblefish

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1) Does Brook fall off the fish and go through life cycle like ich and velvet? It says, brook reproduces thru binary fusion. Does it mean, it reproduces directly on the fish and hence, there is no free swimming stage?

Brook has a direct life cycle; meaning it lives, feeds and reproduces on the fish. However, some of the parasites do drop off into the water column (where they can live quite happily for some time) and then go on to infect another fish. But there is no encysted stage like with ich & velvet.

2) If you dont do the formalin or acriflavine and just administer metroplex and copper into the qt, will it be sufficient to eradicate the disease after 30 days, assuming the fish can wither the storm while the medication take effect?

Yes; however I just learned today that the metronidazole dose needs to be 34 ppm (130 mg/gal) to eliminate brook in a single pass. This is more than Metroplex's max recommended dosage (2 measuring spoons per 10 gallons = 100 mg/gal). :eek: The public aquarium I got this higher dosage info from has successfully tested it on multiple fish, but I need to test it myself on a few clownfish before I feel comfortable recommending it.

3) Can Freshwater Dip help as alternative to formalin dip? (i've tried 37% formalin but its too harsh)

Yes, a 5 min FW dip forces most (but sometimes not all) of the parasites to drop off.

Until I can do more experimentation, I highly recommend a 1-2 punch in order to defeat brook:
  1. Give the fish a FW dip or acriflavine bath or formalin bath to knock most of the parasites off.
  2. Transfer the fish into a new/sterile quarantine tank (to prevent reinfection), and treat with metro or Chloroquine phosphate for 30 days to finish the job.
 

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Brook has a direct life cycle; meaning it lives, feeds and reproduces on the fish. However, some of the parasites do drop off into the water column (where they can live quite happily for some time) and then go on to infect another fish. But there is no encysted stage like with ich & velvet.



Yes; however I just learned today that the metronidazole dose needs to be 34 ppm (130 mg/gal) to eliminate brook in a single pass. This is more than Metroplex's max recommended dosage (2 measuring spoons per 10 gallons = 100 mg/gal). :eek: The public aquarium I got this higher dosage info from has successfully tested it on multiple fish, but I need to test it myself on a few clownfish before I feel comfortable recommending it.
1. So, unlike copper, metro will target all the parasite, regardless they are on / off the fish?
2. I've not tried metro before. Can full dose of metro be administered once, or do I have to acclimate fish to it?
2. Cant wait to hear the results of higher dosage. Do update us Humble. Hoping for the best;Happy
 
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Humblefish

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1. So, unlike copper, metro will target all the parasite, regardless they are on / off the fish?

Yes, although parasites on fish are always going to be more difficult to kill than those off fish. ;)

2. I've not tried metro before. Can full dose of metro be administered once, or do I have to acclimate fish to it?

IME; metro is a funny drug. Most fish handle it just fine - dump it right in and redose every 48 hours as needed. However, every now & then you'll encounter a fish that seems to have an adverse reaction to it. o_O
 

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Two questions.
1) It sounds like we're going to need multiple QT tanks for treatment because we give bath - transfer to sterile QT ->bath ->sterile QT. You can't really sterilize a tank in the 45 minute time of the bath. Do you agree @Humblefish and @Melpyr1985?
2) If I get brook in a system that is fish only, no live rock, no live sand... after I treat the fish with baths per the instructions above. if I dose the system they came from with Formalin, would I be reasonably sure the brook would be gone, assuming that I ditch any media, etc that may impede the formalin? I guess my question is...does formalin eradicate Brook from tanks, equiptment, etc. Unfortunately I don't have the ability to scrub down the system.
 

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Can Brooklynella exist in a tank without fish showing symptoms for years?

I'm asking because my tank has been set up for many years (started in Sept. 2004) and I have added no new fish since last December. I now have a pj cardinal that looks like he might have brook.

Within the last two weeks I lost three fish. The first was a flame angel that had shown no signs of anything prior, at least none that were noticed and I do watch the tank every evening. The other two fish were clownfish (mated pair - one orange and one black). One had spent 4 weeks or so in my overflow (longer story but she jumped in there while we were on vacation and I had a lot of trouble getting her out). Finally rescued her last week and I thought she looked fine. The same day the flame angel died, the black clownfish (not the one from the overflow) looked like he had a white film hanging off him and the next night he had totally disappeared. Another day or so later the clownfish that had been in the overflow looked odd, didn't see any definite white patches or film but she was moving far from her usual territory and swimming into the powerhead current. Normally both clownfish stayed within 6 inches or so of the same spot at the back of the tank. Then two days later she also disappeared and now I see the pj cardinal has a problem. I started researching and it looks very much like the pictures of brook. Thinking back I think that's what my black percula clownfish had.

I know it's not good to have "missing" fish, but the tank is a 225 (72" x 30") with well established live rock and lots of crevices and caves. I've looked carefully but haven't been able to find any bodies. Overflow where the clownfish lived for a month or so is about 18" x 6" and has 4- 1.5" PVC pipes plus 1- 1" PVC so not a lot of maneuvering room which is why it took me so long to rescue her. I'm guessing that she was so stressed she got it first then infected the others, but I don't really know.

Other fish all seem fine, at least right now. Hence my question..............can brook exist in a tank without any fish showing symptoms and then suddenly infect the fish?

I will be removing the obviously affected fish tomorrow for treatment. Just don't understand where this suddenly came from.
 
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