Broadfield's Red Sea Reefer 450 Build - OCD Inspired... Going Back To a Reef

[Hoosier Daddy]

Awesome tank and nice work. I am getting around to setting up my apex on my red sea 450 and may have questions. I am have no idea on how they work yet lol. What are you using for an ATO and what reservoir are you using? I can't stand the one that comes with the tank but I want to use something clean. I don't have basement access either. Let me know. Thanks!

 

[Broadfield]

@Broadfield what is your current stock list (fish)?

I'm looking to add 3 Lyretail Anthias but reading different opinions on how many and which species to go with.


This is what I'm thinking of at the moment:

2 - clowns
1 - sixline
1 - lawnmower
3 - lyretail anthias
1 - royal gramma

Looking for a few more to go with that list that are compatible so if anyone has some recommendations feel free.

I currently have the following:

1 - Purple Tang
3 - Carberryi Anthias
3 - Bartlett's Anthias
1 - Square Back Anthias
1 - Lyretail Anthias
1 - Purple Queen Anthias
1 - Black Axil Chromis
1 - Blue Sappire Damsel
1 - Picasso Clown (which is going to a friend's house once I can catch him)

Awesome tank and nice work. I am getting around to setting up my apex on my red sea 450 and may have questions. I am have no idea on how they work yet lol. What are you using for an ATO and what reservoir are you using? I can't stand the one that comes with the tank but I want to use something clean. I don't have basement access either. Let me know. Thanks!

I'm using a Puratek Auto Level Controller.... absolutely amazing! It pumps directly from my 65 gallon fresh water reservoir in the basement.

 

[tdyrkacz]

this might have already been covered but what do you think of the quality of the red sea stands? Without ever having seen one in person from the pictures they look like ikea furniture... as in flimsy, but again i never saw it in person. Would love to get your thoughts on this. What are they made of? How is the stand put together? Are there leveling feet included or do you shim the stand itself?

 

[Lowell Lemon]

this might have already been covered but what do you think of the quality of the red sea stands? Without ever having seen one in person from the pictures they look like ikea furniture... as in flimsy, but again i never saw it in person. Would love to get your thoughts on this. What are they made of? How is the stand put together? Are there leveling feet included or do you shim the stand itself?

The stands are made of high pressure particle board (fine grained) and have an automotive paint for a high gloss finish. If you keep the stands free of water spills they will do great.

I have seen some that had a quick water bath from a hose coming loose and even with a quick wipe down the damage as extensive. The swelling of this type of product makes it unsuitable unless you are OCD like it says in Broadfeild's thread! Some people silicone the seams once assembled to prevent damage.

I had a stand and canopy by another manufacturer made of the same type of materials with an automotive finish back in the 80's and it eventually failed.

As long as you can keep it dry the stand will last. Do not allow water to remain on the surface long term if possible. Many times the water wicks under the tanks by capillary action and can cause damage. Avoid damage or scratches to the paint to prevent damage to the wood.

The only wood stands I have seen take the abuse of saltwater long term are sealed with polyurathane finishes. These finishes are hand brushed and require 24 hours in a dust free area to reach final set. This is to long for most aquarium cabinet manufacturers. Two coats are recommended.

This is just my opinion seasoned by over 30 years in the industry. I love the Red Sea Systems but the stands make me nervious after seeing some that have failed. I would love to have one but without the stand. I would use some of the new materials for boats (Starboard(R) Duroboard(R)) or solid surface materials like Corian(R) or HiMacs(R) for my stands. These products could be dropped in pool over night and not fail. I might even go for an aluminum with a powder coated finish.

 

[tdyrkacz]

The stands are made of high pressure particle board (fine grained) and have an automotive paint for a high gloss finish. If you keep the stands free of water spills they will do great.

I have seen some that had a quick water bath from a hose coming loose and even with a quick wipe down the damage as extensive. The swelling of this type of product makes it unsuitable unless you are OCD like it says in Broadfeild's thread! Some people silicone the seams once assembled to prevent damage.

I had a stand and canopy by another manufacturer made of the same type of materials with an automotive finish back in the 80's and it eventually failed.

As long as you can keep it dry the stand will last. Do not allow water to remain on the surface long term if possible. Many times the water wicks under the tanks by capillary action and can cause damage. Avoid damage or scratches to the paint to prevent damage to the wood.

The only wood stands I have seen take the abuse of saltwater long term are sealed with polyurathane finishes. These finishes are hand brushed and require 24 hours in a dust free area to reach final set. This is to long for most aquarium cabinet manufacturers. Two coats are recommended.

This is just my opinion seasoned by over 30 years in the industry. I love the Red Sea Systems but the stands make me nervious after seeing some that have failed. I would love to have one but without the stand. I would use some of the new materials for boats (Starboard(R) Duroboard(R)) or solid surface materials like Corian(R) or HiMacs(R) for my stands. These products could be dropped in pool over night and not fail. I might even go for an aluminum with a powder coated finish.

Thanks for confirming my thoughts. I remember seeing on the Elos website that they had a metal stand you can buy which can be covered with wood. I thought there was an option like this with the Red Sea stands as well. I remember seeing a youtube video showing the s series i think which were build of aluminum covered in mdf.... are the reefer series not built the same?

 

[Lowell Lemon]

I have not seen the new S series up close. But I think they use the same methods. Most ot the stores I have been in lately have the Reefer and not the S.

 

[tdyrkacz]

I have not seen the new S series up close. But I think they use the same methods. Most ot the stores I have been in lately have the Reefer and not the S.

I just did some research. It seems that the cabinet on the s series is indeed MDF on an aluminum frame that have adjustable feet. In fact the MDF panels can be completly replaced at any time which means they are only there to cover up the metal stand and are not used for structural integrity. This surprised me. I expected both stands to be made similarly. This would prevent me from buying the reefer series.

 

[ChristopherKriens]

Nice job!

 

[Jimbo662]

Great idea on cleaning the sand bed. I've got a two little fishie feeder I'll have to repurpose for this!

 

[revhtree]

Bought my "pipette" yesterday!

 

[Reefer525XL]

Bought my "pipette" yesterday!

same here $17 with Amazon Prime!

 

[1$adream]

dang I wish we got Coloured pvc here

 

[tjscott46]

When you add your Clowns, get a 1/12 clear plastic pipe long enough to reach your anemone and pour the fish down the tube landing in the nem instant hosting.

 

[g5flier]

Nyos Quantum 160

Hi Broadfield. My 525XL is now running, cycled and just added a clean up crew, can't thank you enough for the help on the plumbing sources. I also have the Nyo's 160. It appears yours is sitting on the bottom of the sump in deeper water then the instructions say to use, they say 8.0 inches. Is this correct, what is your sump water depth? I'm having issues with obtaining the proper water level and wondering if its really the depth that is causing the issue.

Also seeing a great deal of micro-bubbles coming out the exhaust, hoping this will get better as it breaks in, they are really messing with my Apex's ability to measure salinity. As before, thanks!!!

 

[Broadfield]

Hi Broadfield. My 525XL is now running, cycled and just added a clean up crew, can't thank you enough for the help on the plumbing sources. I also have the Nyo's 160. It appears yours is sitting on the bottom of the sump in deeper water then the instructions say to use, they say 8.0 inches. Is this correct, what is your sump water depth? I'm having issues with obtaining the proper water level and wondering if its really the depth that is causing the issue.

Also seeing a great deal of micro-bubbles coming out the exhaust, hoping this will get better as it breaks in, they are really messing with my Apex's ability to measure salinity. As before, thanks!!!

The Nyos skimmers are very forgiving to water level. Nyos recommends a water depth of "approximately 22cm"... which is 8.66". I run mine at 9-1/2" and it works absolutely amazing. The water height in the Red Sea sump is 9.4" and both my 120 and 160 worked great at that depth... so I kept it at that same depth in my new sump.

 

[singleshot]

You're popping up on my fb feeds now and it's not from R2R lol. I love this build and your pictures... awesome great job

 

[Broadfield]

Decided to finally clean up the wiring in my basement. I have about 12 cables in all that come to and from my secondary Apex control area. They are all different lengths and there just wasn't an easy, cosmetically appealing way to organize them with zip ties. I purchased some cable raceway from Amazon to give it a try. It worked out perfect! I wish I would of taken a before shot, but I didn't think about it.

I have the following cables that lead down to the left reservoir(salt water):

• Neptune WAV cable
• Salinity probe
• Temp probe
• Heater

• Another cable for the main pump on the floor between the reservoirs and another for the ATO pump in the right reservoir(fresh water)
• Then four Aqua Bus cables from the EB4 and the corresponding modules... also the one that leads up to my Apex module under the DT.
• Lastly the power supply for the 1-Link module, main power for the EB4, power for my 12 volt trigger to 120v ac output module and cables for the Neptune DOS.

It's crazy how much cabling reef tanks require... and this isn't even anything for the tank per say.

Basement by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

Mixing Station by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

Basement Control 3 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

 

[Fin]

Your Nyos Quantum skimmer, did you go with the 160 or the 220? Guessing 160?

 

[Broadfield]

Your Nyos Quantum skimmer, did you go with the 160 or the 220? Guessing 160?

Yes sir, the 160.

 

[Broadfield]

Just got a new lens yesterday, so trying it out.

Leather by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr