Bird wrasse quarintine

Miller Aquatic

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I ordered in a male green birds wrasse and heard from someone to not quarantine them because they don’t do too well in quarantine. What would you recommend for this species. I heard they are pretty ich resistant. Would it be ok to just get safety stop for dips? I’d rather put them in Dt but if it could prevent problems then I’ll do so.
 

Fishfreak2009

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@Slocke @i cant think @Tcook @Crabby48 may have advice on QT for wrasses. Maye @Fishfreak2009 as well?

I've read the wrasse-ich resistance thing as well but not sure the validity. Also no idea if that's more to do with actual resistance or asymptomatic carriage.
I would still quarantine. I put all my wrasses through 30 days of cupramine, and use prazi, metro, and rally pro. Even the fairies, leopards, and pencils.

Just use a big quarantine and have dither fish in with it. They're active fish and won't do well in a small tank.
 
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Jay Hemdal

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another problem is I have no clue what size he’ll be so if he is a chungus I don’t know if he’ll be comfortable in a 10-20 gallon
That was my first thought - there is nothing inherent with bird wrasses and quarantine EXCEPT they need room to swim and not bung up their snouts. Standard coppersafe and prazi quarantine is fine for them, but a 4” wrasse should have a 30 gallon QT.
 
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Slocke

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I’ll add that as wrasse go, bird wrasse are one of the toughest and take to the home aquarium quickly. They eat readily and handle changes in water quality better than most wrasse. I don't see any reason they wouldn't handle QT. They also handle aggression really well.
 
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I’ll have to wait til Monday when they get the fish in and ask what size it is and I’ll ask if their supplier does any quarantining. I only have a 30 gallon to work with as a qt tank so if it’s small enough and they don’t quarantine I will set it up right away.
 
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Crabby48

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I ordered in a male green birds wrasse and heard from someone to not quarantine them because they don’t do too well in quarantine. What would you recommend for this species. I heard they are pretty ich resistant. Would it be ok to just get safety stop for dips? I’d rather put them in Dt but if it could prevent problems then I’ll do so.
It sure what you decided but I disagree with wrasse and meds for the most part. Flukes I would treat. Only wrasse I know to struggle with prazi are earls. I only do reef wrasse and can’t speak for yours. If you copper use copper power. If a wrasse acts negative to copper it’s around 3 week mark. They should be clean. Yes wrasse can resist ich easier but still can carry and have it on body. Ich and velvet knows of there slime coat and will hide in wrasse gills way before you see it. Velvet will kill and you won’t see it. Less chance than tang but still a chance.

If you qt put sand on bottom. Keep it natural as possible. Seed with small live rock or big. Let him settle before meds can help. Also methylene blue bath could help to detox a fish if it does react negative to meds. Give a bath and transfer in no med tank or while getting a bath drain and refill qt with no med water.
 
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JoJosReef

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It sure what you decided but I disagree with wrasse and meds for the most part. Flukes I would treat. Only wrasse I know to struggle with prazi are earls. I only do reef wrasse and can’t speak for yours. If you copper use copper power. If a wrasse acts negative to copper it’s around 3 week mark. They should be clean. Yes wrasse can resist ich easier but still can carry and have it on body. Ich and velvet knows of there slime coat and will hide in wrasse gills way before you see it. Velvet will kill and you won’t see it. Less chance than tang but still a chance.

If you qt put sand on bottom. Keep it natural as possible. Seed with small live rock or big. Let him settle before meds can help. Also methylene blue bath could help to detox a fish if it does react negative to meds. Give a bath and transfer in no med tank or while getting a bath drain and refill qt with no med water.
PXL_20240712_175953981.jpg

How's that for a wrasse QT tank? Just an observation tank for now. Trying to get the pencil wrasse to eat pellets, but no luck so far. Also no interest in BRS freeze dried mysis or calanus. But he eats baby brine shrimp, live pods and even refrigerated Reef Nutrition PacPods. I will start metro/focus and prazi once he's eating well and happy.

Well, he seems happy actually. Comes right up to me all the time. Swims up to the surface when I'm above the tank.

Still have to figure out what to do about ich/velvet prevention. Copper/CP obviously won't work with all the live sand and rock. If they are asymptomatic for a long time in observation, how likely is it that they are carrying ich/velvet?
 
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Crabby48

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PXL_20240712_175953981.jpg

How's that for a wrasse QT tank? Just an observation tank for now. Trying to get the pencil wrasse to eat pellets, but no luck so far. Also no interest in BRS freeze dried mysis or calanus. But he eats baby brine shrimp, live pods and even refrigerated Reef Nutrition PacPods. I will start metro/focus and prazi once he's eating well and happy.

Well, he seems happy actually. Comes right up to me all the time. Swims up to the surface when I'm above the tank.

Still have to figure out what to do about ich/velvet prevention. Copper/CP obviously won't work with all the live sand and rock. If they are asymptomatic for a long time in observation, how likely is it that they are carrying ich/velvet?
Adding more height if needed to hide behind but good. Size of tank for some wrasse could be small. I used a lot of small with luck.
Prazi and other meds will be consume by bacteria but copper won’t. Copper works great with sand and rock. It will absorb some over a few days then lock in steady.
 
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