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You can remove the hanging kit, holes are not really large enough for any type of hardwareAre the hanging kits pre-installed on the light, or could I machine a mount to adapt it to 80.20 and screw it in where the hanging kit would be?
Yea, if anyone could post some photos it'd be really helpful. I was thinking of buying a unit, and taking it a local machine shop to see if they could make a radion rail mount, or a mount that would go into 80/20 somehow.I believe, but I still haven't seen a super up-close shot, that the cabling can be removed from the fixture mount locations. I was going to use that to try and come up with something, or if all else fails, just make a flange it can sit on.
Would one light cover a 36” x 36” tank?
Yea, if anyone could post some photos it'd be really helpful. I was thinking of buying a unit, and taking it a local machine shop to see if they could make a radion rail mount, or a mount that would go into 80/20 somehow.
I'm going to have a tray made for my 4 so they stay square, I'll then use the hanging mounts to the tray
That's a good idea too - I could have the tray mount into my 80/20 hood's bottom rails, and have the straton's lay on the tray supported around their edges.
Exactly, you could fab up clamps to use on an 8020 rail no problem, even 3d print them. I just don't feel comfortable with it knowing the lights heat up causing the plastic to expand and contract.
The way I did it was I used 3"x1" aluminum channel. I drilled holes for the power cords and then holes for the mounting wires to pass through. If you have more than 1 light, the power cord is going to be too short, so you will need to extend them. ATI made this pretty easy with a 4 pin plug in the power box that you can unplug the existing 4 power cables, extend them, then re-use the plug.
Really these lights are perfect to be mounted in this way, if you aren't afraid to get your hands dirty. I am going to add a white cover and 3d print some shims to shim the lights flush with the rail. The hardest part in mine were the kessils, drilling for the stratons is straightforward.
Haha, whoops, I am on the naughty list this year. I'll get to that tooWait just a minute here, I didn't see this upgrade on your build!!!
The way I did it was I used 3"x1" aluminum channel. I drilled holes for the power cords and then holes for the mounting wires to pass through. If you have more than 1 light, the power cord is going to be too short, so you will need to extend them. ATI made this pretty easy with a 4 pin plug in the power box that you can unplug the existing 4 power cables, extend them, then re-use the plug.
Really these lights are perfect to be mounted in this way, if you aren't afraid to get your hands dirty. Zero cords are visible from eye level, but I am going to add a white cover and 3d print some shims to shim the lights flush with the rail. The hardest part in mine were the kessils, drilling for the stratons is straightforward.
I would NOT use anything 3d printed to suspend any type of weight that heats up, at least from a consumer FDM printer.Exactly, you could fab up clamps to use on an 8020 rail no problem, even 3d print them. I just don't feel comfortable with it knowing the lights heat up causing the plastic to expand and contract.
There was no cutting -- the plug has push fittings you can just pop out the originals. There are 2x 16awg and 2x 20awg wires. I soldered on extensions to the existing stubs, and put in the new ends into the plug.That looks really good! Did you just cut the cords and solder on another cord that had 4 wires as an extension?
I agreeI would NOT use anything 3d printed to suspend any type of weight that heats up, at least from a consumer FDM printer.
That sounds just perfect as I installed four over my 8’ x 34” tankDigging the heck of of how these look, and how they seem to work. Would you say 3 of them for a 6' x 2' x 2' tank? Thinking 4 of them would mean a lot of spill on the ends?