Aquaforest probiotic method

dwhanc00

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I have a lot of questions about dialing in my AF dosing method which includes basically their whole line up of products. I have asked in several different threads, but thought I would create one to maybe help others using AF. Also, I would appreciate any insight on how they have tweaked this method as they get things dialed in. Some background:

I have a 140 gallon tank; 35 gallon sump (only 20 gallons of water. It is a mixed reef, tank is just over 1 year old (I do have previous reef experience – 300 gallon in early 2000’s). Most acros are frag size but finally starting to grow (around 20 different types). It is heavily stocked with 25-30 fish (4 tangs, two foxface and the rest are small fish). It is heavily filtered with a filter roller and a octopus 250 skimmer and refugium. I started the AF probiotic method about a month ago using 1/2 of the GFO, Zeo and carbon. My NO3 and PO4 were around 65 and .35. Fear of overdosing carbon, I reduced dosing vinegar from 40ml to 20ml and now to 0ml after feedback. My most recent NO3 and PO4 were 54.1 and .10 (12/20); 25 and 0.07 on 12/23; 50 and 0.03 12/24. I changed my media on 12/17 and am now almost full strength on the GFO, Zeo and carbon "triple threat" so it is starting to work.

Part of the probiotic method is dosing the AF NitroPhos minus at 20ml per day. They don't say not to vinegar dose, but it also doesn't provide guidance if you are. Other dosing schedule: AF Energy, Build and vitality every other day at 6:00am. This is the same time I add the bio, NP pro, AF Power Elixir, KZ Flatworm and the pro F powder on a daily basis. I dose the AF growth boost aminos and pure food powder every weekend on Sunday. I just dosed the mud and will continue weekly. I am stopping the NitrPhos reducer for now. Component 1,2 and 3 are dosed at 160 ML/day to provide an idea of consumption. My ALK, CA and MG range between 7.75-8.25 (based on ICP tests and verifications – probably more in the 8.50 – 9.00 range, but consistent); 440-460 and 1350-1375 on a daily basis. Pretty steady and dialed in.

Feeding: I feed at least twice a day with a mixture of frozen foods (nikari) and a small amount of pellets. In the mixture I add aminos for fish and corals (both Brightwell – two squirts each), garlic, selcon and dried mysis with tank water. This batch two scoops of the AF growth boost and pure food powders. My food mix is stored in the refrigerator and will last me 4-6 days. I try to use the highest quality ingredients. I will also feed several small sheets of Nori every other day.

Considering I am struggling to keep NO3 down (PO4 is coming down), would you suggest moving back to the 40 ml of vinegar to see if that helps reduce the NO3 or give the "triple threat" time to work them down? Part of my adjustments were also related to some growth on the underside of my rocks "fluffy brown stuff" you can see in my other posts thinking that was a bacteria build up. This has been very frustrating.

I know there is a relationship between PO4 and nitrates where, I believe, you don’t want low PO4 and high NO3. I am kind of there now. As noted, I feed heavy so with PO4 dropping, I have started adding reef roids as another feeding regimen, but limited. Again, trying to find balance and avoid bottoming either one out. I test in the AM around 6:00-6:30 before I dose my bacteria and coral foods.

As you can probably tell, I am really all over the board right now. So, my primary questions:

-Vinegar or no vinegar?

-Thoughts on the schedule of testing and dosing.

-Could this dosing of bacteria contribute to this “gray fuzz” on the underside of the rocks?

-Does this seem like too much feeding?

-Is there such thing as “too much bacteria”?

-Should I be concerned about high NO3/PO4? Good idea to use reefroids to balance PO4?

-If nutrients continue to drop and start to reach zero, should I shut down the reactor part of the day? Or, rely on the heavy in to take care of nutritional needs and just watch for the signs of too low of nutrients?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!
 
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dwhanc00

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A few pictures:
"Gray fluffy stuff"
IMG_5077.jpg
 

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Perry

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Let's simplify-
2 buckets-
1. Chemistry- you are using balling, that satisfies all main and micro elements. No need to go any deeper, just ensure alk is stable, remaining other 2 dose containers at equal dose.
2. Biology- Nitraphos minus is an AIO carbon dose, but Probiotic Method is centered on using NP Pro (carbon source), and Pro Bio S (Probiotic bacteria). That is the heart of the system, and nothing additional required. The zeolite, carbon, phosminus stack unnecessary. With higher nutrients, discontinue coral foods, too much! To further support Probiotic Method, add Life Bio Fil to create additional surface areas for bacteria homing.
Feed fish, and maybe use AF Build. It's a calcium carbonate Snow. Don't over-think and over fertilize the tank. Fish, food, skim- :)
 
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dwhanc00

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Randy, yes the whole system I am implementing is directed at both nitrate and phos. It just is not working. The stack is supposed to take out a significant amount of nutrients allowing me to feed fish and corals heavily. My goal is to be able to continue dosing the AF system, feed fish heavily and maintain lower nutrients. I guess I just don’t realize how much nitrate and phosphate is in these AF coral foods I am dosing because my food hasn’t changed.
 

Troylee

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Let's simplify-
2 buckets-
1. Chemistry- you are using balling, that satisfies all main and micro elements. No need to go any deeper, just ensure alk is stable, remaining other 2 dose containers at equal dose.
2. Biology- Nitraphos minus is an AIO carbon dose, but Probiotic Method is centered on using NP Pro (carbon source), and Pro Bio S (Probiotic bacteria). That is the heart of the system, and nothing additional required. The zeolite, carbon, phosminus stack unnecessary. With higher nutrients, discontinue coral foods, too much! To further support Probiotic Method, add Life Bio Fil to create additional surface areas for bacteria homing.
Feed fish, and maybe use AF Build. It's a calcium carbonate Snow. Don't over-think and over fertilize the tank. Fish, food, skim- :)
I was just gonna tag you, but you’re already here lol
 
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dwhanc00

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Well, decided to add a dose of Dr. Tim's eco balance yesterday as nitrates were still around 55-60 with phos. at 0.16. Dosed at around 3:00. Tested this AM and nitrates were down to 10 and phos. 0.11. I am going to try and feed less of my food again today to see if I can maintain those levels through the weekend.
 
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dwhanc00

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Thanks for providing some feedback Randy. I really appreciate it. Sorry I am really new to asking questions on here and realize after your comment I was way too vague. In order to get good advice I realize I need to provide as much details as possible.

Yesterday's test was the day after a water change and deep cleaning, maybe that is throwing my numbers off. On Wednesday AM my nitrates were 59.6. I performed a rock cleaning (cleaning the "gray fluffy stuff" with power head and brush) and sump vacuum with probably a 25% water change. Thursday AM my nitrates tested at 46 - about right given the water change. Friday AM it was 48 (feed heavy the day before - 3x). Dosed eco balance Friday afternoon (wanted PH to be higher before dosing) as noted and this AM it tested at 10. I also feed less yesterday, feeding only one good feeding and some nori. One other note, when I turned off my reactor, I opened the valve versus closing it which dumped some GFO into my first compartment of the sump. I vacuumed that out with the water change. It could be a testing error, but I do the same thing every time to try and avoid that.

I realize I am chasing numbers right now. The main reason is the fact that I have invested a lot of money to try the AF probiotic method ULN method, heavy in - heavy out. I did not invest this much without doing my research and taking into consideration my habitat and history of my nitrate and phosphate levels. My levels have always been quite high given my 25+ fish bio load even with a filter roller, over sized skimmer and refugium with chaeto. I felt this was the best avenue to maintain healthy levels and I was already committed to AF products. I want to at least give this a chance, considering the investment, and try and dial in my import/export of nutrients.

That is why I am looking here for advice. The individual I have do monthly cleanings really doesn't have any experience with the AF product and really has an old school mentality when it comes to reefing.
 
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dwhanc00

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Just to provide an update: This weekend I finished my deep cleaning of the sump and added a gyre that I had laying around behind my rock pile for flow. After a month of using AF and not being able to achieve my goal of below 15 nitrates and phoshates around 0.1, I decided I should try and eliminate any possible nitrate factories within my reef system. I ordered new MarinePure block 8x8x4 and new bioballs for sump. Currently have rock rubble and a one year old 8x8x1 that has never been changed...

Thursday I thoroughly vacuuming the sump, removing all the rock rubble, 1 year old bio block and chaeto for cleaning. I added the new block and bio balls and returned the bigger pieces of rock to help seed the new block and balls. Doing this I performed a 15-20% water change with the 50/50 AF reef salt/hybrid.

Friday I started with a thorough blowing of the rocks to remove as much detritus and "grey stuff" as possible. I used my gravel vacuum to siphon as much of the particles down through a filter in the sump and back into the tank. I also did this with the sand. Again, just trying to get rid of any trapped nitrates/phosphates in and behind the rocks and sand.

Saturday, added the gyre pump for behind my large rock piles to try and eliminate dead spots. Now it is time to get the sump and refugium reorganized with a cleaner set up and a final vacuuming of settled detritus from Friday. I again removed most of the items from the refugium area for a good vacuum and removed all the small pieces of rock. Relocated a few larger pieces to the display added a pump to the refugium with my chaeto and left the two broken pieces of my old block to help maintain the bio until the new blocks/balls seed. I also found some bags and put the remaining bio balls in the bags, soaked them for 2-3 hours in tank water and some microbac7 I had laying around. Scattered them throughout the sump (mainly the skimmer chamber). Doing this I performed another 10-15% water change (around 20 gallons), again with the 50/50 mix. I changed my zeo, carbon and gfo.

Mainly using this as documentation of my process and for any feedback anyone might have. I know this was a lot, so I plan to let the system do its job and monitor results over the next few weeks with NO more changes except maybe tweaking my food mixture if nutrients remain high. Not going to put much reliance on the test this AM, but nitrates/phos were 26/0.06. Lots of things this weekend so want things to settle before trusting these results.
 
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dwhanc00

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Adding this from another post... Getting old and forgot about this one. lol. @Perry I know you said the stack isn't necessary, but I had already gone down that path and was still battling high nutrients. I also have the whole ABEV for feeding, so I want to play it out and see how it works.

I got my nutrient levels somewhat in check, but recently they have been creeping back up. Acros are all healthy and growing, just not vertically except for three that have gone nuts!

As noted, I take the heavy in, heavy out approach to feeding. If you have seen chumminghamreef nutrients video, I copied some of his method. My phosphate have creeped up to 0.15. Nitrate 15.4 (3/4/2024). I started with the zeovit/carbon/phosmin stack. I also now use 75/25% AF hybrid/reef salt with 15-20% weekly changes (140 gallon tank), roller and strong skimmer (had cheato but just took it out). I also dose the nitraPhos minus daily. I still have not fought it bottoming even with this very aggressive filtration. My goal is to have nitrates below 10 and phosphate below .10. I just ordered the AF life bio fill and decided to replace the phosphate minus in the stacked reactor. I have another reactor and started to run GFO in that on 3/3/2024. I also added two bags of the bio fill - total in the system is around 1500ml. I did this on 3/2.

What do you think of this stack? Carbon is locked in, how much flow do you recommend? Does it matter as long as carbon isn't moving? Considering what I was doing, is this an aggressive change that I need to watch very closely?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!
 
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dwhanc00

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It is supposed to remove ammonia which should help with my nitrate levels.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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It is supposed to remove ammonia which should help with my nitrate levels.

If you mean direct binding, which may happen to some extent, I consider that undesirable and unnecessary, and may well be depleted in a fairly short period of time.

I personally would not use or recommend zeolites for that purpose.
 
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dwhanc00

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Randy, It is recommended as part of the probiotic method and that is just my uneducated reason. My understanding is it holds beneficial bacteria for the purpose of nitrate reduction. I am battling high nutrients, anything else you might recommend considering my whole system set up and approach to heavy in/heavy out?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Randy, It is recommended as part of the probiotic method and that is just my uneducated reason. My understanding is it holds beneficial bacteria for the purpose of nitrate reduction. I am battling high nutrients, anything else you might recommend considering my whole system set up and approach to heavy in/heavy out?

Zeolites are a seemingly fine place for bacteria to grow. If the purpose is as a substrate for bacteria, I have no issue with it.

IMO, the zeovit folks made some unfounded claims about zeolites and ammonia in their early days. I do not follow them and do not know if they still make that claim or not. The idea that the ammonia bound to zeolites help bacteria get that ammonia is not sensible or grounded in science reality.
 

Troylee

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Zeolites are a seemingly fine place for bacteria to grow. If the purpose is as a substrate for bacteria, I have no issue with it.

IMO, the zeovit folks made some unfounded claims about zeolites and ammonia in their early days. I do not follow them and do not know if they still make that claim or not. The idea that the ammonia bound to zeolites help bacteria get that ammonia is not sensible or grounded in science reality.
Got a question Randy… there’s a few build threads going around with what you questioned me on last week or so.. “gut loading bacteria” do you think that topic fits your forum or is it more general reef discussion? It’s basically what he’s trying to accomplish here with zeo and aqua forest components. I hate that it’s all scattered in a few build threads and thought about trying to get the people doing it including myself to kinda gather info in a single thread instead of bouncing around… it’s a new phenomenon that is catching on quick, idk if you’ve came across one of these threads yet?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Got a question Randy… there’s a few build threads going around with what you questioned me on last week or so.. “gut loading bacteria” do you think that topic fits your forum or is it more general reef discussion? It’s basically what he’s trying to accomplish here with zeo and aqua forest components. I hate that it’s all scattered in a few build threads and thought about trying to get the people doing it including myself to kinda gather info in a single thread instead of bouncing around… it’s a new phenomenon that is catching on quick, idk if you’ve came across one of these threads yet?

I’m not sure one can gut load bacteria (never heard that before that I can recall) except perhaps for phosphate or polyhydroxybutyrate, but his is a fine place for a tread, as would the main forum.
 
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dwhanc00

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Got a question Randy… there’s a few build threads going around with what you questioned me on last week or so.. “gut loading bacteria” do you think that topic fits your forum or is it more general reef discussion? It’s basically what he’s trying to accomplish here with zeo and aqua forest components. I hate that it’s all scattered in a few build threads and thought about trying to get the people doing it including myself to kinda gather info in a single thread instead of bouncing around… it’s a new phenomenon that is catching on quick, idk if you’ve came across one of these threads yet?
Thanks Troylee, I am still learning and having trouble finding detailed information on those using similar methods. There are so many different versions, just trying to tweak mine to handle my nutrient load from my fish and feeding. Great if we can put it here or if you have some specific places that are useful, glad to go there as well. Mainly trying to figure out if that stack I used is useful or if the carbon on top hurts, any feedback.
 

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