Aqua Ultraviolet 57W UV Sterilizer + Sicce SDC 7.0 pump = flow question

[wintrmte]

Hi all,

I've had this UV sterilizer and pump now for over two months and am still battling trying to get clear water (yes, I even have activated carbon) So, I finally decided to do the GPH measurement by filling a 5 gallon bucket and calculating the GPH and lo and behold, my GPH was set WAY too low..

I basically unhooked the UV return from the second return pipe on my RedSea Reefer 750 XXL G2 V3 tank and placed it into a 5 gallon bucket, started the timer to see how long it would take to fill the bucket.

The best I can get with the SICCE 7.0 SDC pump at 100% is 474 GPH. That is going through the UV sterilizer with the 3/4" fittings that shipped with the sterilizer, and 3/4" tubing. I did have to get a 1" to 3/4" reducer so the tubing would work on the SICCE pump.. The pump on the website is rated at 1900 GPH, so something is seriously off here.

According to BRS website about this UV sterilizer, it says that 1066 GPH is needed -- I am assuming to get full UV sterilization for the water clarity? If that's the case, how in that even possible?

My tank is 160g display with 40gal sump..

Do I need a different pump, or is 474GPH fine for UV sterilization?

Thank you for any advice you can give!!

 

[GARRIGA]

Seems you are trying to resolve bacterial bloom or single cell algae which multiply quickly and why higher flows are required. Below is the publish chart from Pentair and likely same or similar seen on BRS. Considering rocks take volume and 40 gallon sumps never have 40 gallons then perhaps getting closer to 474 might work being you have a 57w and likely closer 160 gallons all in. Notice the 130 with 25w has minimum flow of 472.

BTW, done those bucket tests and never get the same results twice. Can you get your hands on an actual flow meter. Really the best way to fine tune that UV and confirm that pump under performing.

It's late and my brain is exhausted but there's a formula to calculate the pWs/cm2 that might help decide if what you have is adequate. Forget what that's called and as stated it's late. Edit: Had to look it up. microjueles or something like that

Something to consider, if the water passing the UV isn't polished then that affects performance since it's line of sight and any particulates shielding that being lit will not be affected. Pre-filtering the water helps immensely as these figures based on a certain percentage of clarity. Could try a flocculant to help removes finer particulates if polishing through sediment filtration not an option.

 

[slythy]

i run 2 57w’s on my 180 through about 650 gph measured. Mine is pretty clear and have nothing to complain about. I run mine like that for ich control (even though I dont have it)

I had a sd9 getting about 500gph at 50% when it was just straight to the 2 returns.

Plumbing size makes a huge difference. On my 70g I gained 20% flow going from a T to a true Y splitter.

I actually have a couple aquaUV adaptors setup for 1” if your interested. Pm me.

 

[wintrmte]

Thank you for your replies!! Truly helpful!

 

[wintrmte]

i run 2 57w’s on my 180 through about 650 gph measured. Mine is pretty clear and have nothing to complain about. I run mine like that for ich control (even though I dont have it)

I had a sd9 getting about 500gph at 50% when it was just straight to the 2 returns.

Plumbing size makes a huge difference. On my 70g I gained 20% flow going from a T to a true Y splitter.

I actually have a couple aquaUV adaptors setup for 1” if your interested. Pm me.

Sent you a DM - curious how you modified the Aqua UV to accommodate the 1" fittings!

 

[slythy]

Sent you a DM - curious how you modified the Aqua UV to accommodate the 1" fittings!

I sent you a response did you not get it?

 

[slingfox]

If you want crystal clear water you should look into running ozone. I run both UV and ozone. Ozone made the biggest difference for me.

 

[dangles]

Sent you a DM - curious how you modified the Aqua UV to accommodate the 1" fittings!

I did the same thing for mine. I have an M2 return pump split into two 1” returns. The UV is on one of them. I ordered the 2” slip to 1” slip adapters. I believe AquaUV has them on their website. Otherwise you can call them and order one.

That being said, I still can’t get the AquaUV recommended flow rate for the little single-cell stuff (bacteria/nuisance algae etc). I’m close to maxed out at the fish parasite rate. I used the bucket method though so who knows how close I actually am. I just don’t don’t trust the build quality (and thus longevity) of the Neptune flow meters, and I’m using a Neptune controller. They have AWFUL reviews - almost as bad as the their AFS I really wish somebody would develop a standalone flow meter that doesn’t crap the bed a few months after you buy it.

Here are AquaUV’s recommended rates by the way…

I don’t know why they’re so dramatically different than the Pentair recs but I’d go with whichever manufacturer you’re using when you do get the flow issue sorted.

 

[GARRIGA]

If you want crystal clear water you should look into running ozone. I run both UV and ozone. Ozone made the biggest difference for me.

Was looking at AquaUV's ozone UV combo. Not as efficient as a corona discharge but safer in that the bulb only produces ozone when on and the UV-C dissipates that created if you flow the ozone back to the UV inflow. Basically has an enlarged casing to allow air to pass on the outside of the bulb where UV-A creates ozone.