Another DIY 40b sump post

SallyWho

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*Deep breath* Okay, bear with me here- I'm a newbie with a lot of questions! I'm slowly putting together a 120g build and I did a search for 40b sump plans and got a lot of ideas. I measured the stuff I have, and I *think* I've figured out something that might work, with some clarifications from the pros. I want to do a three chambered design: a drain/skimmer section, a refugium, and a return section. First off, how close can the skimmer be to the filter socks? Does it even matter so long as you have room to switch out the socks and empty the skimmer cup? How deep should I make the return section? And my heater is an Eheim Jager 250W, which is longer than a week of Mondays- 23" I think. How in god's green earth is that going to fit? If I need shorter heaters to fit in my sump, what do you recommend?

To explain the pictures: the drawing is an approximation. It's mostly drawn to scale with each square =1" but the dimensions of the equipment are estimated. I do know the skimmer footprint is about 9" and the return pump is about 4". I figured the return section should be around 8" so I have room for the ATO, to maintain the pump, and to keep the water level as consistent as possible. Good idea or bad idea on the 8" section? And how far apart should the two baffles be? I drew them in as being 1" apart, with a 1" gap on the bottom of the floating baffle. The baffle between the skimmer and fuge is at 10", mostly because I figure I can raise the skimmer if needed, but it'd be harder to raise the baffle if I put it too low. In the photos, the orange mat marks the first section, the red mat marks the fuge, and the return section is marked by the fuge-side edge of the boxes. Measurements of the sections are approximately 15" for the sock/skimmer section, 12" for the fuge, and 8" for the return. What are your thoughts? Am I missing anything obvious, or planning something wrong? Thanks for your input!

Oh, and what thickness of glass should I get for the baffles?

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NowGlazeIT

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Get two of the smaller 150w jager heaters. Don’t use anything less then 1/8 thickness on those baffles 3/16 would be ideal 1/4 if you got it like that
 

NowGlazeIT

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Thanks! The arrangement looks otherwise okay?
The basic layout seems to be the current favorite so yes. But as for the specs of each baffle I would say there are so many 40g Breeder sump builders and I’m not one of them soooo:( not much help there but someone will chime in. there’s gotta be more 40gb sumps then any other
 

don_chuwish

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Skimmer height - if you have headroom inside the stand then make that chamber deep and put the skimmer on a stand that you can adjust. This makes the socks quieter (no falling water) and lets you make the other two chambers deeper too.
I like as much water as possible in the return chamber to minimize ATO cycling on and off, but refugium size is certainly the higher priority.
As always, leave enough 'empty' space in the sump that it won't overflow when the return pump is off and water drains back down. DO NOT rely on check valves to solve that problem.
 
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SallyWho

SallyWho

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Skimmer height - if you have headroom inside the stand then make that chamber deep and put the skimmer on a stand that you can adjust. This makes the socks quieter (no falling water) and lets you make the other two chambers deeper too.
I like as much water as possible in the return chamber to minimize ATO cycling on and off, but refugium size is certainly the higher priority.
As always, leave enough 'empty' space in the sump that it won't overflow when the return pump is off and water drains back down. DO NOT rely on check valves to solve that problem.
I think there should be enough headroom. I'm going to build the stand 36" tall (I'm sick of having to squat to look at my freshwater tank, so this one's going to be up higher), which should give me plenty of vertical space underneath. Is there a way to calculate how much room I should leave for back flow, or is it guesswork?
 

don_chuwish

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It is a bit of guesswork, but depends on how your overflow and return nozzles are set. You can minimize back flow by setting them just below the surface.
 
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