Alternatives to Digital Aquatics Probes and Parts.

n2585722 · Apr 7, 2019

As long as you get a good connection. I used soldier and heat shrink tubing, but I guess twisting the wires together may also work if you have no way to soldier them.

Handegard · Oct 19, 2019

Can anybody post a close up of a iTemps RJ22 connector? I have a crimper and a handful of jacks, but I don’t know which pins to put the wires in.

thanks!

Retro Reefer · Oct 19, 2019

nbagnardi said:
So the guy told me to use it for the one thing I need it for and return it hahaha

so you think it’s funny to be dishonest and steal from someone? this kind of stupidity drives up prices for everyone!

n2585722 · Oct 20, 2019

Handegard said:
Can anybody post a close up of a iTemps RJ22 connector? I have a crimper and a handful of jacks, but I don’t know which pins to put the wires in.

thanks!

Does this help?

Handegard · Oct 24, 2019

n2585722 said:
Does this help?

Helps a great deal. Got it working.

Now I need to figure out if I can somehow use my brand new BNC DA Salinity Probe to a SL2 that has a mini-DIN...

n2585722 · Oct 24, 2019

Handegard said:
Helps a great deal. Got it working.

Now I need to figure out if I can somehow use my brand new BNC DA Salinity Probe to a SL2 that has a mini-DIN...

The SL2 with the DIN is obsolete. DA had a return program years ago for those. You need a SL2v2 module.

MCKnuckledragger · Nov 5, 2019

So, did anyone ever come up with a fully successful temp probe replacement? I see that a few options were used but all appear to be short term tests and did not see long term feedback. Maybe I miss it.

I have at least one used backup with the phone-jack style connector that I could probably swap to the micro molex if I have to (if that will work). I would rather just have a good new alternative.

The system is so stable with years of solid performance.

Silent · Nov 7, 2019

Interested in this as well @MCKnuckledragger

Jason777 · Nov 7, 2019

I have used the plastic coated themistors successfully on 2 tanks for about a year. The original thermistors that I'm using are not available on Amazon any longer so I purchased some different ones last week and have been testing them. After about a week the new one is staying within 0.1 degree, well within the margin of error of calibration. You can find more details in this thread if interested.

Digital Aquatics Reefkeeper Temperature Probe Replacement - DIY?

The temperature probes for the reefkeepers are getting difficult to find so I'm interested in finding a working replacement. n2585722 has done some investigation with a 10k NTC thermistor and I have tried one but find it to be too sensitive for use. The digital aquatics probe gives a nice square...

www.reef2reef.com

Silent · Nov 7, 2019

@Jason777 do you have a link to buy one of the ones you are testing? Will it connect directly to the rk?

Jason777 · Nov 8, 2019

Silent said:
@Jason777 do you have a link to buy one of the ones you are testing? Will it connect directly to the rk?

It does not come with a connector, you would have to put on your own.
I hate to post links because they seem to come and go on Amazon and the link would most likely be outdated quickly. If you do a search on there for "waterproof NTC 10k" it should get you to something usable. The stainless ones did not work well for me. I've had good luck with the plastic coated ones but they are not always available.
The ones I'm currently testing are Ucontro and came in a pack of 5.

Silent · Nov 8, 2019

So I could just cut the cord off my old itemp probe and splice it to the waterproof NTC 10k without buying a new connector?

n2585722 · Nov 8, 2019

Silent said:
So I could just cut the cord off my old itemp probe and splice it to the waterproof NTC 10k without buying a new connector?

Which temp probe type are you replacing, iTemp or the regular temp probe?

n2585722 · Nov 8, 2019

MCKnuckledragger said:
So, did anyone ever come up with a fully successful temp probe replacement? I see that a few options were used but all appear to be short term tests and did not see long term feedback. Maybe I miss it.

I have at least one used backup with the phone-jack style connector that I could probably swap to the micro molex if I have to (if that will work). I would rather just have a good new alternative.

The system is so stable with years of solid performance.

I am still using one of the metal ones where it was placed in an old pH probe. It has been in the tank a few months now. See post 120 in this thread.

Silent · Nov 8, 2019

The itemp probe. @Jason777 thank you for the recommendation on probe replacement. I went ahead and ordered the same one you are using.

MCKnuckledragger · Nov 9, 2019

Jason777 said:
It does not come with a connector, you would have to put on your own.
I hate to post links because they seem to come and go on Amazon and the link would most likely be outdated quickly. If you do a search on there for "waterproof NTC 10k" it should get you to something usable. The stainless ones did not work well for me. I've had good luck with the plastic coated ones but they are not always available.
The ones I'm currently testing are Ucontro and came in a pack of 5.

I think I found the same ones you are using. Thank you for the info! Can I just add a JST connector (is that the connector type?) plug it in to my SL1 and drop the waterproof probe in? Is there some sort of calibration that will need done? I seem to remember reading that it was not a good idea to try to calibrate the original DA itemp probes......

Jason777 · Nov 10, 2019

MCKnuckledragger said:
I think I found the same ones you are using. Thank you for the info! Can I just add a JST connector (is that the connector type?) plug it in to my SL1 and drop the waterproof probe in? Is there some sort of calibration that will need done? I seem to remember reading that it was not a good idea to try to calibrate the original DA itemp probes......

You will need to add the correct connector for your system, not JST. It doesn't matter if you use the Molex or RJ connector, that depends on your module(s) and where you want to connect to your RK.

My thermistor is just dropped into my sump. There hasn't been a problem for me with it floating but you could make a mount if you are concerned.

Yes, it will need to be calibrated to the RK, follow the RK instructions just like adding one of their probes.

HawaiianReef · Nov 10, 2019

n2585722 said:
I thought I would start a thread where we can put probes and parts that we come across that can be used to replace the probes and parts for the RKE,RKL and Archon systems.

To start it off I will add one.

DP1

Motor pump assembly for the DP1. I found a replacement for the pump assy for the DP1. It can be purchased from Amazon Amazon product. What I do is dissassemble the new pump assy and use the motor, roller assembly, front plate, tubing and screws in most cases. Below is the DP1 beside the pump assembly purchased from Amazon. I have already removed the tubing from the pump assy. It does come with the tubing. I ordered some tubing that was 2x4.5mm and it will not fit. I have some 2.5x4.5mm tubing on the way. If it works I will update it here. The 2.5X4.5 tubing did not work. I ordered some 2.2x4.5 tubing and installed it. It seems to work. Time will tell. Link below.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-2...002.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77584c4dfJMfuu

Below is the parts I used to repair this DP1 from the one I purchased.

You will need to remove the back cover and unsoldier the wires at the motor of the DP1. Make a note of which wire is attached to the + terminal of the motor.

Once you have the wires unsoldiered from the motor unscrew the motor from the pump case assy. I was able to break the motor free from the glue with vicegrips while holding on to the pump case and DP1 case with my hands. The motor and pump case is glued to the DP1 case using hotmelt glue gun. If it does end up come loose you can use a glue gun to glue back.

Once the pump case is cleaned up if needed then place the new motor in the case and screw it back in. The only thing left is to soldier the wire back on the new motor making sure the same wire on the + terminal of the old motor is hooked to the + terminal of the new motor. The only issue is the direction the motor turns. If it turns the wrong way it is just a matter of swapping the wires on the motor. One you have the motor mounted and soldiered back in install the rollers and tubing and then replace the pump cover. Then reassemble the DP1 housing. You will have to calibrate the pump after doing this.

I hope this will help someone that is needing to fix a broken DP1 without too much trouble.

Dude... You Are The Man!!!
Awsome research and Many Tanks for sharing!!!

n2585722 · Nov 12, 2019

I edited the original post on the DP1 and added a second option on how to replace the entire pump assembly instead of just the motor. It is in post 1 of this thread.