All Fish dead within 48hrs

[Scott Max]

There are a number of vendors that will ship quarantined fish. And occasionally you can find a local vendor that does it. Many good reviews on this sight for quarantine vendors.
Please don’t overlook the suggestions about appropriately sized fish for your tank. Live Aquaria is a good quick resource for tank size as well as temperament in the quick stats section under every fish they list.

In a 20 you are very limited to what you can keep long term and run the risk of continued disease outbreaks in over sized fish even with quarantined fish. You have 60 days of fallow to research and the forum will answer any questions you have. Best of luck moving forward!

Thank you, thank you. I will look to my local stores first and also search out online vendors. Question: fellow reefer Formulator mentioned the possibility of something toxic got into my tank. Would a Triton ICP test be something to consider? Besides a few frags I recently added to the tank, I did start dosing Kalkwasser to elevate my pH. Maybe I accidentally made it too concentrated. But that seems unlikely given my water parameters are decent. One more thing worth mentioning is that right before the fish all died, I performed a 20% water change using a brand new batch of Tropic Marin Pro Reef. Could I have a contaminated batch? Then there's Velvet, which Jay mentioned. It's frustrating not knowing the cause. I even checked the tank components for errant electrical current.

Lastly, I do not have a quarantine tank. It would probably be another big expense, but it certainly would be prudent and handy.

Thanks again for all the help I've received.

 

[slingfox]

Thank you, thank you. I will look to my local stores first and also search out online vendors. Question: fellow reefer Formulator mentioned the possibility of something toxic got into my tank. Would a Triton ICP test be something to consider? Besides a few frags I recently added to the tank, I did start dosing Kalkwasser to elevate my pH. Maybe I accidentally made it too concentrated. But that seems unlikely given my water parameters are decent. One more thing worth mentioning is that right before the fish all died, I performed a 20% water change using a brand new batch of Tropic Marin Pro Reef. Could I have a contaminated batch? Then there's Velvet, which Jay mentioned. It's frustrating not knowing the cause. I even checked the tank components for errant electrical current.

Lastly, I do not have a quarantine tank. It would probably be another big expense, but it certainly would be prudent and handy.

Thanks again for all the help I've received.

Doesn't hurt to run an ICP if you want to be extra safe but that fish selection in that size of tank was a ticking time bomb. Oftentimes the most simple explanation is what makes sense.

 

[vetteguy53081]

And, yes. I need to practice better husbandry, especially given fish selection. Again, thanks for everyone's input. Glad to be a part of this amazing forum!

Even with quarantined fish, you still want to assume they have something and do a short quarantine of your own (14-21 days). Moving forward- Quarantine your fish using coppersafe for 30 days and Prazi Pro over an 18 day period). Leave your display tank without fish for 7-8 weeks doing water change/siphoning gravel bed each 3-4 weeks to vacuum any dead protozoans) over the 7-8 week period

 

[Scott Max]

Even with quarantined fish, you still want to assume they have something and do a short quarantine of your own (14-21 days). Moving forward- Quarantine your fish using coppersafe for 30 days and Prazi Pro over an 18 day period). Leave your display tank without fish for 7-8 weeks doing water change/siphoning gravel bed each 3-4 weeks to vacuum any dead protozoans) over the 7-8 day period

Thanks Slingfox, thanks Vetteguy. Understood.

 

[NanoNana]

Thank you, thank you. I will look to my local stores first and also search out online vendors. Question: fellow reefer Formulator mentioned the possibility of something toxic got into my tank. Would a Triton ICP test be something to consider? Besides a few frags I recently added to the tank, I did start dosing Kalkwasser to elevate my pH. Maybe I accidentally made it too concentrated. But that seems unlikely given my water parameters are decent. One more thing worth mentioning is that right before the fish all died, I performed a 20% water change using a brand new batch of Tropic Marin Pro Reef. Could I have a contaminated batch? Then there's Velvet, which Jay mentioned. It's frustrating not knowing the cause. I even checked the tank components for errant electrical current.

Lastly, I do not have a quarantine tank. It would probably be another big expense, but it certainly would be prudent and handy.

Thanks again for all the help I've received.

As mentioned, any testing is just icing on the cake and certainly will not hurt. It’s a better safe than sorry kind of thing. Tropic Marin contamination would not be impossible but is very unlikely. If testing current water water yields anything, we can look for a source at that time.

Quarantine tank can be done very economically as you don’t need reef lights or a large tank. Any aquarium kit from Petco etc will contain pretty much all you need. With the type of fish you’re going to be able to put in a 20g you’d be fine with a five gallon quarantine doing one fish at a time if they are larger or aggressive. ( I did my two baby rainfordi gobies together and they did fine.)
PVC pipe for hiding places depending on the species a little sand.

 

[Scott Max]

As mentioned, any testing is just icing on the cake and certainly will not hurt. It’s a better safe than sorry kind of thing. Tropic Marin contamination would not be impossible but is very unlikely. If testing current water water yields anything, we can look for a source at that time.

Quarantine tank can be done very economically as you don’t need reef lights or a large tank. Any aquarium kit from Petco etc will contain pretty much all you need. With the type of fish you’re going to be able to put in a 20g you’d be fine with a five gallon quarantine doing one fish at a time if they are larger or aggressive. ( I did my two baby rainfordi gobies together and they did fine.)
PVC pipe for hiding places depending on the species a little sand.

Thanks Nano! I will now look into a small quarantine setup from my local Petco. You and the others have been a big help! I will not lie though. While I will absolutely wait 60+ days before adding any fish, but I'm already researching appropriate nano tank fish and feel some level of excitement. What a hobby!

 

[MnFish1]

That's what the poster means. Any new fish. But you may want to consider a 72 day fallow period to make sure all is well. That being said, I'm hoping that others will chime in on whether this is recommended. I have yet to study diseases. But yes, QT new fish. I'm actually going to start up a 40G Breeder with a mated pair of clowns and corals. When I launch my 155, that 40 will become my QT. I'll end up using a seller that QTs for me and use the QT to monitor new arrivals x2 weeks before they go into the DT. I ain't taking ANY more chances, cause my 90G DT died off in 48h just like yours 12 years ago. Angered me so much I quit for that length of time.

There should definitely be a fallow period 6-8 weeks. (Given the severity, I would go longer i.e. 8 weeks)

 

[MnFish1]

There are a number of vendors that will ship quarantined fish. And occasionally you can find a local vendor that does it. Many good reviews on this sight for quarantine vendors.
Please don’t overlook the suggestions about appropriately sized fish for your tank. Live Aquaria is a good quick resource for tank size as well as temperament in the quick stats section under every fish they list.

In a 20 you are very limited to what you can keep long term and run the risk of continued disease outbreaks in over sized fish even with quarantined fish. You have 60 days of fallow to research and the forum will answer any questions you have. Best of luck moving forward!

I am going to slightly disagree with part of this. The Liveaquaria list the maximum size - which fish rarely reach. You can use it as a guide - but not as a 'bible'. Having said that its true that a 20 gallon tank one is fairly limited - and IMHO - the main issue regarding disease spreading is the bioload/number of fish - the more fish, the more quickly any disease will multiply and spread. I guess in the end - I don't really disagree

 

[MnFish1]

PS - sorry - I repeated some of the answers already given - I didn't see the responses! - I would make another suggestion - if you're going to buy a quarantine tank (agreed) - I would take your current tank, make that the quarantine tank - and buy a somewhat bigger display tank now - perhaps a 40 gallon - which will make management much easier going forward - and also broadens your options. Many fish stores have specials on 55g tanks as well - with stand, etc - which makes the entire thing less expensive.

 

[NanoNana]

I am going to slightly disagree with part of this. The Liveaquaria list the maximum size - which fish rarely reach. You can use it as a guide - but not as a 'bible'. Having said that its true that a 20 gallon tank one is fairly limited - and IMHO - the main issue regarding disease spreading is the bioload/number of fish - the more fish, the more quickly any disease will multiply and spread. I guess in the end - I don't really disagree

Live Aquaria is just a good quick reference. If it says 180 gallon minimum, you know you’re overreaching for a 20. Lol This forum is still the best place to then fine tune the list. Most LFS’s would sell the kraken to someone with an 5 gallon pico and say “oh sure it will be fine for 9 months then you can bring it back for store credit.”

 

[MnFish1]

Live Aquaria is just a good quick reference. If it says 180 gallon minimum, you know you’re overreaching for a 20. Lol This forum is still the best place to then fine tune the list. Most LFS’s would sell the kraken to someone with an 5 gallon pico and say “oh sure it will be fine for 9 months then you can bring it back for store credit.”

I do not think that most LFS's would do that - and - if you re-read my comment - I said I really didn't disagree with you. I do not believe that the Liveaquaria sizes are based in fish-keeping reality - which is why I said basically use it as a guide - rather than a bible

 

[NanoNana]

I do not think that most LFS's would do that - and - if you re-read my comment - I said I really didn't disagree with you. I do not believe that the Liveaquaria sizes are based in fish-keeping reality - which is why I said basically use it as a guide - rather than a bible

Oh no, I completely understood what you meant I was agreeing that it’s just a quick way to weed out the no way that’s gonna work fish.
I’ve seen a lot of fish lately in tanks that are way too small because their LFS is telling them it’s fine. It’s certainly not ALL. But seems to be a trend lately. I had it happen to me recently when I was looking for a rainfordi. Just made the offhand comment that I wished I could stuff a particular fish in my 24 gallon. Straight away I got “oh at the size it is now it would be fine for a few months” and then proceeded to start talking about feeding requirements etc like I was actually going to buy the fish. I was kind of mortified. I was like yeah, I’m not going to raise for ya but thanks.

 

[PharmrJohn]

Live Aquaria is just a good quick reference. If it says 180 gallon minimum, you know you’re overreaching for a 20. Lol This forum is still the best place to then fine tune the list. Most LFS’s would sell the kraken to someone with an 5 gallon pico and say “oh sure it will be fine for 9 months then you can bring it back for store credit.”

LOL, ya hit that nail on the head

 

[ReefStable]

I would lean toward velvet or ammonia spike. Those are the only things I can think of that would act that fast and not also kill the coral.

 

[Scott Max]

There should definitely be a fallow period 6-8 weeks. (Given the severity, I would go longer i.e. 8 weeks)

Thanks. I've decided to go 12 weeks.

 

[Scott Max]

Hello everyone. As I will be letting my tank go fishless for 8 weeks, will that affect my nitrogen cycle and my beneficial bacteria? As stated, I have a clam and many corals in the tank. During this fishless dormant period, do I need to do anything to keep my nitrogen cycle in tact? Thanks.

 

[Goaway]

Hello everyone. As I will be letting my tank go fishless for 8 weeks, will that affect my nitrogen cycle and my beneficial bacteria? As stated, I have a clam and many corals in the tank. During this fishless dormant period, do I need to do anything to keep my nitrogen cycle in tact? Thanks.

Look up ammonium chloride, and there are products to dose nitrogen and phosphates. I am sure someone on here has the names of the bottles.

 

[MnFish1]

Hello everyone. As I will be letting my tank go fishless for 8 weeks, will that affect my nitrogen cycle and my beneficial bacteria? As stated, I have a clam and many corals in the tank. During this fishless dormant period, do I need to do anything to keep my nitrogen cycle in tact? Thanks.

You should not need to do anything with ammonia, etc. In the absence of ammonia autotrophs can 'go dormant'. In any case, Any feeding you would do for the corals will be enough. I would NOT add ammonia. If your testing shows that your PO4 or nitrates are dropping, that can be added - however, you should not need to do that. What kind of corals do you have?

 

[Scott Max]

You should not need to do anything with ammonia, etc. In the absence of ammonia autotrophs can 'go dormant'. In any case, Any feeding you would do for the corals will be enough. I would NOT add ammonia. If your testing shows that your PO4 or nitrates are dropping, that can be added - however, you should not need to do that. What kind of corals do you have?

All LPS and one Acropora and one T. Derasa clam.

 

[Goaway]

There's nothing wrong with reading into ammonium chloride.

Ammonia and coral

Ive been reading on if ammonia will hurt coral and I have been reading conflicting articles. So what is the thought will ammonia hurt corals gsp in specific.

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