Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Any flasher, except P. octataenia would work.
For Cirrhilabrus, any complex with the "A" or "B" label:
Cirrhilabrus Complexes: Inferiority Need Not Apply (1st Revision)
Cirrhilabrus, the “Fairy Wrasses”, are one of the most elegant, active, and colorful reef fish. Their appeal in a reef tank is common to many, but not all have a well-rounded understanding of the compatibility amongst them. Enter the notion of...www.reef2reef.com
Per the first post, I advocate against pairs of anything.How about pair of
Species compatibility is okay, butWill they work with yellow corris and melanarus wrasse
Per the Cirrhilabrus chart, I recommend 75g min for rhomboidalis.3ft 55 gallons tank
Thanks!Per the first post, I advocate against pairs of anything.
Species compatibility is okay, but
Per the Cirrhilabrus chart, I recommend 75g min for rhomboidalis.
Halichoeres are pretty easy to QT. That being said, I am not very comfortable with your plan. It's essentially a 2 week observation only, which isn't enough time for some things to manifest that could already be present. Melafix doesn't offer a whole lot, except against some mild bacterial infections.am going to get one melanarus wrasse this weekend. I plan to QT it using Melafix for 3 days and for 11 more days just for observation. Total of 2 weeks. Plan to use 10 gallons tank with sand. Is my plan okay? Is this fish risky during QT?
I read some QT methods and I choose not to medicate with copper for few reasons: I am not experienced with medication and may likely kill the fish, I don’t want to stress the fish and end up kill the fish, and medication will not 100% rid of disease. Therefore, I choose to observe and use “easy on the fish” medication and get them to eat before they go to DT. I know there is TTM method, and again it may add stress to the fish and also doesn’t guarantee 100% of disease free fish.Halichoeres are pretty easy to QT. That being said, I am not very comfortable with your plan. It's essentially a 2 week observation only, which isn't enough time for some things to manifest that could already be present. Melafix doesn't offer a whole lot, except against some mild bacterial infections.
I'd suggest you take some time to review the sticky index on the Fish Disease forum.
H. iridis is a poor shipper so I think that’s why they changed it to expert only. I haven’t gotten one to live past 2 days after shipping.Also, I noticed since getting back into the hobby that LiveAquaria has deemed H. iridis as expert only. Has something changed over the past 5 years?
Some past discussion of the the species here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/timor-wrasse.616987/How would you compare Halichoeres timorensis to other in the genus as far as temperament and reef compatibility?
Also, I noticed since getting back into the hobby that LiveAquaria has deemed H. iridis as expert only. Has something changed over the past 5 years?
Pretty much that - it doesn't often ship well.H. iridis is a poor shipper so I think that’s why they changed it to expert only. I haven’t gotten one to live past 2 days after shipping.
I've been doing a lot of wrasse reading lately trying to decide which ones I will attempt to keep. I would also like to have some anthias, I saw something that suggested the they wouldn't get along. What is your opinion on this? I have a 180 gallon tank I would like to add maybe 4 dispar anthias, a C. lubbocki, C. exquisitus, C. isosceles and maybe a blue star leopard. I currently have a desardini tang, a yellow tang, 2 clowns, carpenters wrasse, a mandarin, purple firefish, helfrichi firefish, and a watchman goby.
Anthias and wrasses usually coexist well.
Agree with TJ (above); it's usually not a problem.
Mixing anthias and wrasses has never been a problem for me. Ive mixed lyretails, flavvogutatus and randalli with flashers (mccoskers and linespot), pencil, leopard and tamarin wrasses. I would however imagine if you tried mixing some of the more difficult and touchy anthias species with the more assertive planktivores like the scotts fairy wrasse and the likes, that they may bully the anthias. So i guess it depends on what species you're mixing. But normally is fine if you select wisely.Hello all,
I plan to start a large tank (10'-12') build in a few years, and would love to have several different flasher wrasse (among others) 4 or 5, i have a read in a couple places that they sometimes don't get along with anthias. But Hunter and TJ didn't seem concerned when a similar question was posed. Would it be best if the anthias (largeish group of 20 give or take) were added first or the flashers (4 or 5ish different ones)?
Thanks for your thoughts
Thank you very much for your experiences. I aasnhoping to hear this.Mixing anthias and wrasses has never been a problem for me. Ive mixed lyretails, flavvogutatus and randalli with flashers (mccoskers and linespot), pencil, leopard and tamarin wrasses. I would however imagine if you tried mixing some of the more difficult and touchy anthias species with the more assertive planktivores like the scotts fairy wrasse and the likes, that they may bully the anthias. So i guess it depends on what species you're mixing. But normally is fine if you select wisely.
Thank you! He's only about a year old now.Beautiful fish!