All About Reef Safe Wrasses in Aquaria

[Bizzy bee reef]

I ❤ Wrasses too!
I just can't believe that my shy shy shy melanarus would probably not play well with others!
I actually just ordered the white bottomed acclimation box thinking I would try to add one more...
What would be my best choice??
I have a reefer 525xl with 3 clowns and one starry blenny and one banghaii.....

I just bought my 6 line wrasse and I have a pair of clowns that were introduced a month before he’s been in my tank for a couple days now should I get the other fish I want to get now before he gets too big and becomes the tank bully

 

[eatbreakfast]

Just curious, should it be ok to add the fish in this order without issue in a 120 reef?

1st Group
(1) Pseudocheilinops ataenia
(1) Paracheilinus mccoskeri
(1) Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus

2nd Group (2 weeks later)
(1) Paracheilinus lineopunctatus
(1) Cirrhilabrus exquisitus

Adding the flashers simultaneously would be ideal.

 

[evolved]

Just curious, should it be ok to add the fish in this order without issue in a 120 reef?

1st Group
(1) Pseudocheilinops ataenia
(1) Paracheilinus mccoskeri
(1) Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus

2nd Group (2 weeks later)
(1) Paracheilinus lineopunctatus
(1) Cirrhilabrus exquisitus

I agree with both replies - the flashers together would be best, and an acclimation box should definitely be used with the second group.

I just bought my 6 line wrasse and I have a pair of clowns that were introduced a month before he’s been in my tank for a couple days now should I get the other fish I want to get now before he gets too big and becomes the tank bully

As stated in PM:
The genus is a known bully once mature. As juvi's they can be pretty tame, but at some point in the future and at some point of maturity, the switch is flipped. At best, it will be okay with the fish currently in the tank and be completely intolerant of any new additions, and at worst it will just take issue with all fish in the tank, old or new.
If you wish to have a truly peaceful tank, it might be best to remove it.

 

[dustinc]

Slight change to my list... What do you think of this group? 120 gallon tank

(1) Pseudocheilinops ataenia
(1) Paracheilinus mccoskeri
(1) Paracheilinus octotaenia
(1) Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus
(1) Cirrhilabrus exquisitus

All added at the same time.

 

[evolved]

Slight change to my list... What do you think of this group? 120 gallon tank

(1) Pseudocheilinops ataenia
(1) Paracheilinus mccoskeri
(1) Paracheilinus octotaenia
(1) Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus
(1) Cirrhilabrus exquisitus

All added at the same time.

Probably okay - octotaenia might be too pushy for mccoskeri given the tank size.

 

[dustinc]

Probably okay - octotaenia might be too pushy for mccoskeri given the tank size.

Any recommendation for something to switch out for the McCoskeri? Maybe a carpenters?

 

[evolved]

Any recommendation for something to switch out for the McCoskeri? Maybe a carpenters?

The issue lies with octotaenia - not whatever Paracheilinus is alongside it.

 

[dustinc]

Ok. So would I be better off with the 3 listed above and no McCoskeri or any other Paracheilinus? Will I still get the flashing with the other two Cirrhilabrus? Thank you. Still learning the ends and outs of Wrasses.

 

[shadow1013]

@evolved you had a huge list of wrasse types and a lot of detail that went along with them, has that been updated? I’m getting back into the hobby and trying to decide on tank size, I know larger the better most times, but would love to get back into it sooner than having to wait a year plus to save enough $$$$

 

[evolved]

So would I be better off with the 3 listed above and no McCoskeri or any other Paracheilinus?

If octotaenia is on the "must have" list, that would be the safest path. It might be tolerant of another Paracheilinus - it just depends on the particular specimen's attitude.

Will I still get the flashing with the other two Cirrhilabrus?

Yes; octotaenia tends to act more like a Cirrhilabrus rather than a Paracheilinus in its usual behavior, fwiw.

 

[evolved]

@evolved you had a huge list of wrasse types and a lot of detail that went along with them, has that been updated?

A list like in the first post?

 

[shadow1013]

Yes sir! I’ve been seeing a lot of different info on what tank size they need, like one place will says pintails should be in 60+ gallon tanks and others say 80+. Also not sure if that is display size or whole system volume.

I’m also wondering if it should be more length if tank as you could have a bit shorter tank but it could be nice and long to give them more room to swim.

A list like in the first post?

 

[shadow1013]

@evolved never did get a reply. I want to make sure I'm not going to put someone in too small of a tank.

 

[saltyhog]

@evolved never did get a reply. I want to make sure I'm not going to put someone in too small of a tank.

For compatibility and tank size requirements for fairy wrasses, this is what you're looking for. Don't want to speak for Hunter but I'm pretty sure this is up to date. Pintails are in the Lunatus complex.

 

[evolved]

Sorry; closed this tab incidentally yesterday.

I’ve been seeing a lot of different info on what tank size they need, like one place will says pintails should be in 60+ gallon tanks and others say 80+

Yes, there's certainly little consistency on that info, across the common sources. I did take a general stab at it though on the chart salty posted just above (for Cirrhilabrus).

Also not sure if that is display size or whole system volume.

DT only. System volume only helps you maintain water quality.

long to give them more room to swim.

It definitely does. What I'd be comfortable putting in a 60 cube is drastically different than a 75 gallon tank. Lateral swimming space is important.

 

[shadow1013]

Thanks guys! No idea a Pintail could be in a tank as small as a 4. Was thinking about the Red Sea Reefer XL 300 but was wondering if some of the wrasse wouldn't fit well in there. Sounds like a Pintail would, but maybe not a few of the others.

For compatibility and tank size requirements for fairy wrasses, this is what you're looking for. Don't want to speak for Hunter but I'm pretty sure this is up to date. Pintails are in the Lunatus complex.

Sorry; closed this tab incidentally yesterday.
Yes, there's certainly little consistency on that info, across the common sources. I did take a general stab at it though on the chart salty posted just above (for Cirrhilabrus).
DT only. System volume only helps you maintain water quality.
It definitely does. What I'd be comfortable putting in a 60 cube is drastically different than a 75 gallon tank. Lateral swimming space is important.

 

[Tuffloud1]

Great thread!

I am looking at the Marble aka “Checkerboard” wrasse but I am not able to find anyone with a lot of first hand experience.

I’m looking to add this guy to my 262 gallon sps dominated reef. I’ve had a 6 year old Spotted Mandarin that I don’t want anything to happen to. I’ve read stories of Sixline wrasses harming Mandarins.

I currently have no other wrasses in my system.

Anyone have experience with the Marble/Checkerboard Wrasse or recommend it?

Thanks

 

[evolved]

Great thread!

Heh, literally just posted to your other thread.

I am looking at the Marble aka “Checkerboard” wrasse but I am not able to find anyone with a lot of first hand experience.

It's intentionally left off the list I provided. Not one I'd put in most reef tanks.

 

[Tuffloud1]

Heh, literally just posted to your other thread.

It's intentionally left off the list I provided. Not one I'd put in most reef tanks.

Thanks Evolved. For this wrasse, what are the risks? I know you mention “most” reefs.

It is interesting that Live Aquaria labels the Marble wrasse as peaceful.

 

[evolved]

For this wrasse, what are the risks? I know you mention “most” reefs.

As an adult (truly a 8-10" fish - I've seen them first hand on Fiji reefs), they'll be pretty hard on most all your motile inverts and they're also a bit bully-ish.
So the "most" part comes in because they are completely coral safe, so long as you know how the species behaves and plan for it - keeping only larger fish that won't be bullied, plus not keeping most small motile inverts (which is what general CUC consist of), then they can be okay. Otherwise you're probably in for a headache.

It is interesting that Live Aquaria labels the Marble wrasse as peaceful.

LA isn't perfect - no single source is. Generally I find LA to be mostly accurate. Sometimes it's best to comb over several sources and take a consensus.