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Not really sure either. LA does their best on information but they do get things wrong sometimes. I don't believe the species to be any more difficult than the average Halichoeres.I'm curious why Live Aquaria lists Radiant Wrasses as "difficult" to keep. Is this an error on their part or is there something in particular related to shipping stress or eating habits that make them difficult?
That is their natural behavior but:He was waiting for it to land, and then a few minutes later he would cruise by and "pick" the food off the glass or sand. It appears he'd rather "hunt" his food the traditional way
He'll adapt, especially around other fish. It's a bit of "monkey see, monkey do".My concern is that this could become problematic in the display tank where food simply doesn't sit around. It blows around, and if you don't eat fast, you don't eat. Is this something I should be concerned about, or will he change his habits when he gets hungry enough?
Yes, provided it is NOT of any of the following genera: Anampses, Halichoeres, Macropharyngodon, and Pseudojuloides. Those four require sand.Can I put a wrasse in a bare bottom tank?
If so, which is the best for that situation?
Thanks
I need some advice about reducing aggression between wrasses. I have a young male Eightline flasher and a young male Hooded fairy living peacefully with other wrasses in my tank for 8 months, with the Eightline is slightly smaller than the Hooded. Last week I removed my big super male Pink margin fairy. For the last 2 days, my young male Eightline flasher has been chasing my young male Hooded fairy relentless anytime they see each other. What should I do? Adding another big super male wrasse to keep these young males in check or temporarily separating them with acclimation box?
Removing or adding one almost always shakes up the hierarchy, so that doesn't strike me too surprised. Is the hooded still able to eat? If the chasing isn't resulting in the hooded being forced to stay in constant hiding or otherwise getting injured, I would just let it ride for now. It will probably work out, but you'll need to take action if it doesn't (remove one - can try an acclimation box on the eightline but in my experience it won't make any difference at that point). Adding another could work, but I doubt it.I need some advice about reducing aggression between wrasses. I have a young male Eightline flasher and a young male Hooded fairy living peacefully with other wrasses in my tank for 8 months, with the Eightline is slightly smaller than the Hooded. Last week I removed my big super male Pink margin fairy. For the last 2 days, my young male Eightline flasher has been chasing my young male Hooded fairy relentless anytime they see each other. What should I do? Adding another big super male wrasse to keep these young males in check or temporarily separating them with acclimation box?
Quick question: How long Flashers live for( home aquarium)? I heard Fairy if all good up to 5 years.
Yup, those are still my beliefs on the subject.
I need some advice about reducing aggression between wrasses. I have a young male Eightline flasher and a young male Hooded fairy living peacefully with other wrasses in my tank for 8 months, with the Eightline is slightly smaller than the Hooded. Last week I removed my big super male Pink margin fairy. For the last 2 days, my young male Eightline flasher has been chasing my young male Hooded fairy relentless anytime they see each other. What should I do? Adding another big super male wrasse to keep these young males in check or temporarily separating them with acclimation box?
Well after 2 days racing, the chasing has stopped, for now. Both of them are now swimming freely. Good grief. Thanks everyone!Removing or adding one almost always shakes up the hierarchy, so that doesn't strike me too surprised. Is the hooded still able to eat? If the chasing isn't resulting in the hooded being forced to stay in constant hiding or otherwise getting injured, I would just let it ride for now. It will probably work out, but you'll need to take action if it doesn't (remove one - can try an acclimation box on the eightline but in my experience it won't make any difference at that point). Adding another could work, but I doubt it.
I encountered a very similar situation among my flasher wrasses recently. I removed the aggressor (in my case P. flavianalis) and put him in one of my cycled observation tanks for a little over 2 months. When I re-introduced him there were no problems. YMMV, just be prepared to remove him permanently if it doesn't work out.
Yeah, that's a bit dated now. Liz Groover gave a preso this past MACNA.https://www.risingtideconservation....d-KpsdW49qMbaV-_lVkVP3RN3j7gfX0Q0emBfPoequVuU
cool read about aquaculturing melanarus and chrysus wrasses
Yeah, that's a bit dated now. Liz Groover gave a preso this past MACNA.