All About Reef Safe Wrasses in Aquaria

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dsinsocal

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Great. Thanks. I was thinking the same thing ... just checking for initial aggression for a day or two and then an early release program.
 

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My new Radiant decided to acclimate himself today. I had his bag floating in the sump as I drip-acclimated him from my QT (my QT is right next to my DT, so I float bags in my sump to maintain temps). When the bag got about 75% full I went to empty out half the water to continuing dripping, but noticed the bag was empty. The little jerk decided to leap out of the bag, cleared the 2-inch wide media chamber, and ended up in the skimmer section of my sump.

Hopefully he wasn't infected with anything. lol I'm just happy he decided to jump sideways rather than forward on to the floor.

Man, those guys can jump! The water level was *at least* 3.5 inches below the rim of the sump, and at least 2 inches away from the media chamber -- and there wasn't a single drop of water on the lid of my media chamber, so it appears that he cleared it completely. Pretty impressive, actually. :)
 

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I'm curious why Live Aquaria lists Radiant Wrasses as "difficult" to keep. Is this an error on their part or is there something in particular related to shipping stress or eating habits that make them difficult?

I fished my bold little jumper out of the skimmer section of my sump last night and put him the QT tank with a cup of sand. He buried himself straight away, but he was already out and about when I walked in this morning, so he doesn't seemed to be too stressed out. He's sharing a clear wall with the Pintail and neither seems to be paying attention to the other at all.

He also came to breakfast this morning, eating a few pieces of mysis during the morning feeding, which is a good sign. The one thing I noticed, however, is that he won't pick food out of the water column. He was waiting for it to land, and then a few minutes later he would cruise by and "pick" the food off the glass or sand. It appears he'd rather "hunt" his food the traditional way rather than eat food that's out in the open water. He appears to be a sportsman.

My concern is that this could become problematic in the display tank where food simply doesn't sit around. It blows around, and if you don't eat fast, you don't eat. Is this something I should be concerned about, or will he change his habits when he gets hungry enough?
 
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I'm curious why Live Aquaria lists Radiant Wrasses as "difficult" to keep. Is this an error on their part or is there something in particular related to shipping stress or eating habits that make them difficult?
Not really sure either. LA does their best on information but they do get things wrong sometimes. I don't believe the species to be any more difficult than the average Halichoeres.
He was waiting for it to land, and then a few minutes later he would cruise by and "pick" the food off the glass or sand. It appears he'd rather "hunt" his food the traditional way
That is their natural behavior but:
My concern is that this could become problematic in the display tank where food simply doesn't sit around. It blows around, and if you don't eat fast, you don't eat. Is this something I should be concerned about, or will he change his habits when he gets hungry enough?
He'll adapt, especially around other fish. It's a bit of "monkey see, monkey do".
 
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Can I put a wrasse in a bare bottom tank?
If so, which is the best for that situation?
Thanks
Yes, provided it is NOT of any of the following genera: Anampses, Halichoeres, Macropharyngodon, and Pseudojuloides. Those four require sand.

Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus are both good choices for bare bottom tanks.
 
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PGT253

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I need some advice about reducing aggression between wrasses. I have a young male Eightline flasher and a young male Hooded fairy living peacefully with other wrasses in my tank for 8 months, with the Eightline is slightly smaller than the Hooded. Last week I removed my big super male Pink margin fairy. For the last 2 days, my young male Eightline flasher has been chasing my young male Hooded fairy relentless anytime they see each other. What should I do? Adding another big super male wrasse to keep these young males in check or temporarily separating them with acclimation box?
 

dsinsocal

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I need some advice about reducing aggression between wrasses. I have a young male Eightline flasher and a young male Hooded fairy living peacefully with other wrasses in my tank for 8 months, with the Eightline is slightly smaller than the Hooded. Last week I removed my big super male Pink margin fairy. For the last 2 days, my young male Eightline flasher has been chasing my young male Hooded fairy relentless anytime they see each other. What should I do? Adding another big super male wrasse to keep these young males in check or temporarily separating them with acclimation box?

deleted.... I just realized you said said eightline "flasher".
 

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Hey everyone,

Need some advice. Have a 150 that will be a bare bottom sps dominated tank with some angels mainly.

I’m looking for 2-4 different reef safe wrasses. Any suggestion? Looking for some that are colorful and I hate using the term “rare” but less common maybe?

Also what’s a good price for a super male Pylie wrasse? Is this a decent choice? Maybe this and 2 more?

Thanks
 

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@nbd13
I asked about bare bottom wrasses yesterday your answer is:
provided it is NOT of any of the following genera: Anampses, Halichoeres, Macropharyngodon, and Pseudojuloides. Those four require sand.
Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus are both good choices for bare bottom tanks.
Pylei Wrasse is of the Cirrhilabrus genus and will be fine in bare bottom tank.
As for price I'm not the one that knows that stuff.
I looked yesterday...there's a few super male wrasses on LA and LADD right now.
I took those bolded genus types from above and pasted them into search on LA and other sites, that will narrow it down to what you can work with.
 

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Quick question: How long Flashers live for( home aquarium)? I heard Fairy if all good up to 5 years.
 
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I need some advice about reducing aggression between wrasses. I have a young male Eightline flasher and a young male Hooded fairy living peacefully with other wrasses in my tank for 8 months, with the Eightline is slightly smaller than the Hooded. Last week I removed my big super male Pink margin fairy. For the last 2 days, my young male Eightline flasher has been chasing my young male Hooded fairy relentless anytime they see each other. What should I do? Adding another big super male wrasse to keep these young males in check or temporarily separating them with acclimation box?
Removing or adding one almost always shakes up the hierarchy, so that doesn't strike me too surprised. Is the hooded still able to eat? If the chasing isn't resulting in the hooded being forced to stay in constant hiding or otherwise getting injured, I would just let it ride for now. It will probably work out, but you'll need to take action if it doesn't (remove one - can try an acclimation box on the eightline but in my experience it won't make any difference at that point). Adding another could work, but I doubt it.
Quick question: How long Flashers live for( home aquarium)? I heard Fairy if all good up to 5 years.
Yup, those are still my beliefs on the subject.
 

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I need some advice about reducing aggression between wrasses. I have a young male Eightline flasher and a young male Hooded fairy living peacefully with other wrasses in my tank for 8 months, with the Eightline is slightly smaller than the Hooded. Last week I removed my big super male Pink margin fairy. For the last 2 days, my young male Eightline flasher has been chasing my young male Hooded fairy relentless anytime they see each other. What should I do? Adding another big super male wrasse to keep these young males in check or temporarily separating them with acclimation box?

I encountered a very similar situation among my flasher wrasses recently. I removed the aggressor (in my case P. flavianalis) and put him in one of my cycled observation tanks for a little over 2 months. When I re-introduced him there were no problems. YMMV, just be prepared to remove him permanently if it doesn't work out.
 

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Removing or adding one almost always shakes up the hierarchy, so that doesn't strike me too surprised. Is the hooded still able to eat? If the chasing isn't resulting in the hooded being forced to stay in constant hiding or otherwise getting injured, I would just let it ride for now. It will probably work out, but you'll need to take action if it doesn't (remove one - can try an acclimation box on the eightline but in my experience it won't make any difference at that point). Adding another could work, but I doubt it.

I encountered a very similar situation among my flasher wrasses recently. I removed the aggressor (in my case P. flavianalis) and put him in one of my cycled observation tanks for a little over 2 months. When I re-introduced him there were no problems. YMMV, just be prepared to remove him permanently if it doesn't work out.
Well after 2 days racing, the chasing has stopped, for now. Both of them are now swimming freely. Good grief. Thanks everyone!
 
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HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

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