Adjusting the overflow

Mike Arnold

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I’m not sure what is achievable with silencing the overflow; here’s a video of the sound of my overflow currently; is it possible to quiet it down some more, or is this normal?
 

P-Dub

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I’m not sure what is achievable with silencing the overflow; here’s a video of the sound of my overflow currently; is it possible to quiet it down some more, or is this normal?
Pretty darn quiet to me.
 

Greg P

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Hey Mike - your video was very helpful

Having the return plumbing attached to the stand is amplifying the pump's hum. A couple things to consider would be;
- High quality silicon hose from the pump to the stand-mounted plumbing, replacing as much pipe as possible. It's spendy but just a one-time purchase as it will last forever. It may seem flimsy but handles more pressure than we deal with so don't be concerned. I use plastic zip ties so no clamp rusting. If you're not comfortable with them, there are plastic ratcheting clamps out there. I've used stainless for years and they are not a one-time purchase.
I see you're using a DC pump and don't need a return valve, so consider replacing all the plumbing past the gate valve right up to the union with silicon. This way you can save the current hard plumbing and only need another union (threaded) with a barb (threaded) for the new hose.
- Also, while you are re-plumbing it, consider using Aquamesh Green 2 - Coarse - Lifegard under the pump to kill the rest of the vibration noise. Also spendy, but also lasts forever, is useful for other pump pads, and is a great home for pods and sponges. I never clean mine but rather just let the life thrive.
Easily cut with scissors. I use zip ties to keep mine attached to the pump as the stuff likes to float during maintenance.

The last thing I see is it looks like you could raise the overflow box water level some by closing your drain gate valve more. Do you have a drain valve? Can't see one in the video but thought I caught a quick shot of maybe a ball valve ...? A gate valve on the main drain is a MUST.
You may need to cut a new emerg pipe for a taller height, and maybe even install a float switch to kill power to the pump in case of a near flood, but all is controllable.
I removed my main drain pipe and run an open bulkhead in the box on the main drain. This allows all air to flush almost immediately upon pump startup and alleviates any flood risk during the initial balancing. Doing this I'm able to run my overflow box much higher than most would be comfortable doing.

You'll not be able to rid yourself of the weir noise from the wave effects, but you'll get it very close to silent.
Personally, I find the noise peaceful and keeps my ears tuned to what's going on.

Hope this all helps and good luck!

1638067223308.png
 
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Mike Arnold

Mike Arnold

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Hey Mike - your video was very helpful

Having the return plumbing attached to the stand is amplifying the pump's hum. A couple things to consider would be;
- High quality silicon hose from the pump to the stand-mounted plumbing, replacing as much pipe as possible. It's spendy but just a one-time purchase as it will last forever. It may seem flimsy but handles more pressure than we deal with so don't be concerned. I use plastic zip ties so no clamp rusting. If you're not comfortable with them, there are plastic ratcheting clamps out there. I've used stainless for years and they are not a one-time purchase.
I see you're using a DC pump and don't need a return valve, so consider replacing all the plumbing past the gate valve right up to the union with silicon. This way you can save the current hard plumbing and only need another union (threaded) with a barb (threaded) for the new hose.
- Also, while you are re-plumbing it, consider using Aquamesh Green 2 - Coarse - Lifegard under the pump to kill the rest of the vibration noise. Also spendy, but also lasts forever, is useful for other pump pads, and is a great home for pods and sponges. I never clean mine but rather just let the life thrive.
Easily cut with scissors. I use zip ties to keep mine attached to the pump as the stuff likes to float during maintenance.

The last thing I see is it looks like you could raise the overflow box water level some by closing your drain gate valve more. Do you have a drain valve? Can't see one in the video but thought I caught a quick shot of maybe a ball valve ...? A gate valve on the main drain is a MUST.
You may need to cut a new emerg pipe for a taller height, and maybe even install a float switch to kill power to the pump in case of a near flood, but all is controllable.
I removed my main drain pipe and run an open bulkhead in the box on the main drain. This allows all air to flush almost immediately upon pump startup and alleviates any flood risk during the initial balancing. Doing this I'm able to run my overflow box much higher than most would be comfortable doing.

You'll not be able to rid yourself of the weir noise from the wave effects, but you'll get it very close to silent.
Personally, I find the noise peaceful and keeps my ears tuned to what's going on.

Hope this all helps and good luck!

1638067223308.png
Awesome feedback. Thank you . The evidence all points to the hum following the hard plumbing, just as you pointed out; the solution will be easy and relatively in expensive. I’ll run silicone tubing from the union on the pump to the union on the manifold. I have a spare gate valve that will replace the current one. I’ll use a barbed hose connector on the gate valve and pump union and a T-barb for the return. That should reduce the hum considerably; also, I will for sure, be purchasing some of that aqua mesh. That is pretty cool.

Also, sometimes I can’t see the forest for the trees; I get too tunnel visioned. I didn’t think about it before, but I do have the ability to fine tune the height of water in the overflow. I can use the gate valve on the manifold. It works great. I do need to raise the emergency drain slightly.
C2CDE00B-C8C7-4BD0-9EC9-54D0EFE16A05.jpeg
 

PeterEde

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Wish mine was that quiet over the weekend.
Mine was chugging like a train. Siphon kept breaking.
I realised back pressure on the return stopped it.
The original sock was replaced by a denser sock which increased back pressure and no more siphon break.
Reducing the distance water falls should stop that sound.
 
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