Looks like nice work. What's the black Banding on the tops and bottoms?Here’s a few tanks I’ve made.
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Looks like nice work. What's the black Banding on the tops and bottoms?Here’s a few tanks I’ve made.
It’s just 1/8” thick black acrylic I weld on. I like a more conventional looking tank tbhLooks like nice work. What's the black Banding on the tops and bottoms?
I don’t black band them to cover up a crappy weld trust me. There’s rarely even a micro bubble in any of my seams. It’s all about looksI also notice you don't use one piece solid tops. Maybe you do and it's the angle of the photo. Every time I have seen black bands like this is because of the seam quality. If you don't use solid tops I can see why you would try to compensate by going a gauge or two thicker on the side panels. But with solid tops it is not necessary. Here is what our build for that size looks like the seams are unpolished. Also notice everything is CNC to micro tolerances that is why when we attach the top and bottoms we don't need to black band them. On tanks this big it requires large CNC equipment to cut out the hatches. That is probably why you piece the eurobraces and use thicker walls. Also noticed your flat back hex is pieced together and not a single piece front panel. Still not bad for doing it as a sideline.
This is the level of flatness we have before attaching the top or bottom
This is a good story - and good to hear the original owners are back. Also explains the reason for the ban stick on the other reef forum maybe!!
You didn’t answer my question. Do you still use 1/2” material on 30” tall tanks?I also notice you don't use one piece solid tops. Maybe you do and it's the angle of the photo. Every time I have seen black bands like this is because of the seam quality. If you don't use solid tops I can see why you would try to compensate by going a gauge or two thicker on the side panels. But with solid tops it is not necessary. Here is what our build for that size looks like the seams are unpolished. Also notice everything is CNC to micro tolerances that is why when we attach the top and bottoms we don't need to black band them. On tanks this big it requires large CNC equipment to cut out the hatches. That is probably why you piece the eurobraces and use thicker walls. Also noticed your flat back hex is pieced together and not a single piece front panel. Still not bad for doing it as a sideline.
This is the level of flatness we have before attaching the top or bottom
Depends. Not just on the height but also what else the client is looking for. For standafd tanks 1/2 inch is the what we use. All of our aquariums are custom products and there are situations where we would use thicker walls. But what also keeps the fronts from bowing is a one piece top. Oh, and we NEVER use the Indonesian acrylic marga ciptaYou didn’t answer my question. Do you still use 1/2” material on 30” tall tanks?
Thank you both for your comments. We have been building aquariums for a long time and certainly appreciate your observations. On a typical day we build more than 40 before noon and are quite confident in our capabilitiesI have a tank that I used to service that was 72" long and 30" tall with 1/2" material. I about download in my pants every time I see it. I put a level across the front of it and it stood off 4" on either end of the level.
1/2" material should never be used on a tank over 24" tall, period. For a 96" long tank, it's right out.
We also offer several hundred sizes and even more varieties. Pat answers to like how thick is a 30 inch tank is don't apply to every situationI have a tank that I used to service that was 72" long and 30" tall with 1/2" material. I about download in my pants every time I see it. I put a level across the front of it and it stood off 4" on either end of the level.
1/2" material should never be used on a tank over 24" tall, period. For a 96" long tank, it's right out.
We also offer several hundred sizes and even more varieties. Pat answers to like how thick is a 30 inch tank is don't apply to every situation
I’m quite confident in my abilities as well. I may not build hundreds but I’ve built probably close to 60 big tanks and I keep in touch with nearly all of the people I build for on a personal level because I enjoy the hobby so much and I will tell you this that none of my tanks bow or have crazing in the seams after a few years because I use more than the minimum thickness. Under no circumstances would I use half inch material on a tank even 24 inches tall let alone 30Thank you both for your comments. We have been building aquariums for a long time and certainly appreciate your observations. On a typical day we build more than 40 before noon and are quite confident in our capabilities
I have seen his builds in his youtube channel, they have no bubbles in them before the banding, you can check out the videos at Wayne's reef in YT.I don’t black band them to cover up a crappy weld trust me. There’s rarely even a micro bubble in any of my seams. It’s all about looks
Not sure why you wouldn’t use Margo cipta. I found it to be a very good acrylic it’s hard and doesn’t scratch easily. I did find that I had to allow the solvent to work a little longer on it but that was it.And I can’t see how a one piece top would stop it from bowing any more than the pieced in top if it’s done correctly. I never see any Bowing on any of my tanks. Can you say the same?Depends. Not just on the height but also what else the client is looking for. For standafd tanks 1/2 inch is the what we use. All of our aquariums are custom products and there are situations where we would use thicker walls. But what also keeps the fronts from bowing is a one piece top. Oh, and we NEVER use the Indonesian acrylic marga cipta
How can there be many reasons a tank would bow. The only reason a tank would bow is going to tall using material that isn’t thick enough or inadequate bracing. Anyway. I’m just here to try to help diy guys have success Building their own tanks. I’ve been very successful myself and I’m just trying to pass on some of the tips and tricks that I’ve come up with in a home environment. Something I’m sure that you would have a hard time relating to having such a nice shop and such high end equipment. And you are right I have no liability insurance on the tanks that I build however I do explain that to anybody that I build a tank for before agreeing to build one and so far I’ve yet to have any tank failures. I have had more than a few customers try to get me to build using half inch material and I flat out refused. Not even for smaller tanksOk, once again, there are many reasons a tank would bow. And Google search of course is the most highly rated and accurate source for unbiased truthful information. I also posted a link to our company history and, no, we don't have a "problem" finally, I already know the answer to this, (0) what is the policy limits on your products liability insurance coverage? Ours is $5 million. Never a claim made. I don't really need to get into these types of back and forths because they are pointless. I wish you the best in your tank building hobby.
So here we go again. Let me show you an example where simplistic rule of thumbs don't work. Here is a. 96 inch tall tank made from 3/4 inch. Zero bowing. No top. No eurobrace. I know, yeah but... Not really an aquarium etc. Just an extreme example of where simple if this then that rules don't apply. This was a research vessel for a medical device manufacturer Btw.You can build a 30" tall tank using 1/2" material, sure. But should you? No. Here's why
Deflection causes stress on seams - definitely the main problem because over time this can lead to premature failure. Will this "definitely" happen? Not saying that, but it does increase the chance. Manufacturers can get out of claims in many ways, specifically pointing to the stand the tank is on, or if someone places it on foam, etc etc...
The more common problem with deflection is that it makes it that much more difficult to remove algae growth. The result is more time spent scraping a curved surface, resulting in more propensity to scratch.
Top it off with the 1/2" standard that I go by is actually the imperial thickness, and pretty much everything except Polycast and maybe Reynolds is the metric equivalent, or 0.468".
I can't believe you're actually defending building 30" tall tanks out of 1/2", let alone 96" long ones. For anyone here reading this discussion: don't build your own tank like this.