Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

Turbo's Aquatics · Jan 24, 2016

Ya got me, I'd call the manufacturer or retailer

cromag27 · Mar 20, 2016

What's everyone working on?

jerseypete · Mar 20, 2016

dbl said:
@Floyd R Turbo...ordered and received my Weldon 4. However, I ended up with two different types. One say 4 and one says 4SC. Do you know if there is a difference? And if so, should I just return the SC version? Thanks in advanced.

The one can says low voc. Probably gives off less vapors.

nitro · Mar 20, 2016

Very cool and informative thread.
Nitro

dbl · Mar 20, 2016

jerseypete said:
The one can says low voc. Probably gives off less vapors.

Thanks @jerseypete. I was wondering if that might be the difference. I still haven't started my sump so I've yet to use either thus far! Someday...

Tango2 · Mar 24, 2016

I'm planning to start building the sump I've been planning for several months now. My design can be found here:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/sump-build.216022/

I'd really like to get some feedback on how difficult this design would be to assemble, and this being my first acrylic project, I'm questioning my abilities, even though I am probably more than capable.

If any more experienced folks can give any suggestions or comments, I'd love to hear them.

Turbo's Aquatics · Mar 24, 2016

Offhand I would point out that the tricky part is the baffles for the filter sock. Anything that is perpendicular to 2 planes makes it tricky because to get everything to line up perfectly to the end and both the front and back panels, you have to weld things in the right order and be dead on.

For instance, you might start by bonding the end to the front. Then you would bond in the bottom of the intake (right most horizontal floating panel). But the solvent flows downhill so you have to bond one edge (say, to the front panel) then bond the other edge (to the side panel). So do you flip the build after the front/side joint is cured and you have bonded the panel to the front? Probably. Now repeat that for the first vertical divider, making sure that things line up, etc. See where I'm going with this? Lots of room for error.

This is why I am a huge proponent of the drop-in filter sock tower. Just make that whole thing a separate box that 1) doesn't have to be watertight because it sits inside the sump 2) is removable, in case you decide that design sucks 3) is really a lot simpler to build 4) serves the exact same purpose

Turbo's Aquatics · Mar 24, 2016

alike dees:

Tango2 · Mar 24, 2016

So I was thinking the "middle" wall that separates the fuge from the sump would be the best place to start, attaching the baffles and ends first. The sock holder will probably be challenging, but since it's not structural, I wasn't too concerned with that part. I can build that prior and weld it in as an assembly.

I think my biggest concern is having everything line up during assembly. I'm still in the process of reading through the thread, and will finish before I start my build. I appreciate the feedback and tips you have posted here. If you have any other suggestions, I'd love to hear them.

Turbo's Aquatics · Mar 24, 2016

Tango2 said:
I can build that prior and weld it in as an assembly.

Been there. It's not as simple as it seems. You can bond it all together and it may look fine, but when you get it inserted into the sump interior, you'll see how a 0.05 degree difference is magnified.

Getting the main baffles to line up is not as hard. Anything with multiple planar bond lines makes the process exponentially more complex.

cromag27 · Mar 25, 2016

You really pack on the weight, turbo. what are you using to cut the circles for the filter socks?

Turbo's Aquatics · Mar 25, 2016

What are ya talking about man, I've been losing weight ever since I got IBS!!

But seriously, in this case I had a template made for the exact size needed for the 7" filter sock from Strainrite. Works for most any 7" sock as well.

jsker · Mar 25, 2016

Floyd R Turbo said:
What are ya talking about man, I've been losing weight ever since I got IBS!!

But seriously, in this case I had a template made for the exact size needed for the 7" filter sock from Strainrite. Works for most any 7" sock as well.

What are you cutting the sock holder holes with.

Turbo's Aquatics · Mar 25, 2016

jsker said:
What are you cutting the sock holder holes with.

I had a piece of 3/8" acrylic CNCd to the exact part dimension, then I double-stick-tape that to a rough cut 1/4" piece and use a table router with a 1/4" spiral upcut flush trim bit to route out the pattern.

jsker · Mar 25, 2016

Floyd R Turbo said:
I had a piece of 3/8" acrylic CNCd to the exact part dimension, then I double-stick-tape that to a rough cut 1/4" piece and use a table router with a 1/4" spiral upcut flush trim bit to route out the pattern.

Thank you for the answer, so quickly. The light just went on. That make so much since, make a template and use a router.

Tango2 · Mar 25, 2016

What is the best router bit to clean up edges of acrylic prior to gluing? Is an upcut (or downcut) much better performing than a straight bit?

Turbo's Aquatics · Mar 25, 2016

You would want a 2-flute straight bit for edge prep, I like the Bosch 3/4" diameter cutter at Lowes, standby bit for me

http://www.lowes.com/pd_29287-353-85265MC_1z0wclcZ1z140vc__?productId=1081969&pl=1

For trimming off excess you want a spiral upcut flush cutter, this one is 1/4" shank, also what I use for template routing

https://www.google.com/search?q=rou...oe=utf-8#q=router+bit+spiral+upcut+flush+trim

I also have a 1/2" diameter spiral upcut monster from amana. $$$$. Whiteside bits are decent and less $

MT. Reefer · Mar 25, 2016

Floyd R Turbo said:
Good info @mixer911 thanks for chiming in. @tonkaoz this is on my list but he short version is after wet sanding I use a high speed polisher (at low/med speed) and Meguair's Ultra Cut followed by Swirl Free Polish and the purple pad. Last pass with swirl free polish is at moderately highly speed

Floyd, I have an older 90 tank I need to polish out. I had actually been in contact with the guys on "Tanked" who told me that they use "Finesse-it" by 3M. The thing I can't figure out is what type of buffer or polisher to use. Any suggestions?