Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

imustbenuts

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Can you explain? I've never really had an issue with chipping. The last few passes should be paper thi
Not much to explain really. Had a few pieces chip out with the strait bit I was using. Maybe it wasn’t sharp enough, or fed to fast, or too deep a cut. I just started using my spiral bit instead and haven’t seen any issue yet using it.
 

cromag27

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Bad material, wrong feed rate, dull bit and wrong rpm can all lead to issues like this.

Not much to explain really. Had a few pieces chip out with the strait bit I was using. Maybe it wasn’t sharp enough, or fed to fast, or too deep a cut. I just started using my spiral bit instead and haven’t seen any issue yet using it.
 
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Turbo's Aquatics

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Usually making too deep of a cut result in pitting, but I've never had a piece chip out on a pass actually. I'm guessing that might be a really deep cut, or a material issue.
 

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I'm late to the party, so sorry to interrupt - I have a question related to acrylic thickness and calculators that maybe somebody might know the answer to:

For acrylic windows placed into a rebate (think FRP, concrete, ect) is the thickness calculator the same? Would the acrylic window thickness be calculated off the overall height and width of the longest side of the tank itself regardless of what the window dimensions might be?
 

Riley S

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By rebate I mean the channel or space that the acrylic window is placed in and is sealed around. -- Like public aquarium tanks are constructed. I think rebate is the term anyway.

I probably won't be going to the expo, but that is all the rage here. Your scrubbers are highly regarded by those that have them on our local club forum.
 
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By rebate I mean the channel or space that the acrylic window is placed in and is sealed around. -- Like public aquarium tanks are constructed. I think rebate is the term anyway.
Gotcha. Not sure what the answer to this would be. James at Envision Acrylic would know, but he's not on here I don't think
 

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I am building a non-display divided breeding tank....I made the stupid mistake of leaving my table saw blade way up when cutting my acrylic. Anyways, since this is not a display how can I repair this....it's the bottom corner of the tank. I haven't put the bottom on yet.
 

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Here is the picture

IMG_20171118_185333.jpg
 

Matthias7

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1FA4620E-F8FD-4986-9E69-3C9659DB5E84.jpeg
Here is a picture of a practice weld. There are some bubbles on the inside corner of the weld. Does this mean the peice was not square when I bonded the pieces? What is the best way to fix the issue everything was squared up no gaps in the joint that I could see
 

cromag27

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possibly. what do you mean by 'no gaps in the joint...'? are you using the pins method?

1FA4620E-F8FD-4986-9E69-3C9659DB5E84.jpeg
Here is a picture of a practice weld. There are some bubbles on the inside corner of the weld. Does this mean the peice was not square when I bonded the pieces? What is the best way to fix the issue everything was squared up no gaps in the joint that I could see
 
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Turbo's Aquatics

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Here is the picture

IMG_20171118_185333.jpg
I'm having a hard time seeing what you're trying to show us here?
1FA4620E-F8FD-4986-9E69-3C9659DB5E84.jpeg
Here is a picture of a practice weld. There are some bubbles on the inside corner of the weld. Does this mean the peice was not square when I bonded the pieces? What is the best way to fix the issue everything was squared up no gaps in the joint that I could see
They don't look pretty, and that generally means the joint is a bit weaker, but this usually isn't a deal breaker as long as everything else is good (tank is the proper thickness, etc).

This happens when your edge isn't perfectly square, or your jig isn't holding it square. You might have a slightly rounded edge also, this allows the bubbles to creep in as the joint dries and the solvent retracts. one way to help avoid this is to do a "fast pass" of solvent after you pull the pins, moving at about 3x to 4x speed.

I was going to say that this might be dust in the joint, but that's not likely because it's consistent across the whole joint.
possibly. what do you mean by 'no gaps in the joint...'? are you using the pins method?
I think he meant that he didn't have any gaps in the joint when he dry-fit everything together (before adding pins)
 

Matthias7

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When you bond the top and bottom panels do you shim and pin the joint around the entire tank and do the whole joint at one time?
 
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You don't see how the acrylic is chewed up on the edges, and the corners don't line up perfectly? Will weldon 16 by itself solve this?
Yeah, still not seeing it. I see what looks like a piece of clear on the left, which is sitting on plywood below it, and some black or opaque something butted up next to it, and there's some blue painters tape stuck to it? But I can't see any detail at all about specifically what joint you're talking about...maybe if you take an "overall" picture? And then a flash pic or maybe use a flashlight or something to light up the area you're referring to. Hope that doesn't come off sounding jerky, I just can't figure our anything in that first pic
 

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Yeah, still not seeing it. I see what looks like a piece of clear on the left, which is sitting on plywood below it, and some black or opaque something butted up next to it, and there's some blue painters tape stuck to it? But I can't see any detail at all about specifically what joint you're talking about...maybe if you take an "overall" picture? And then a flash pic or maybe use a flashlight or something to light up the area you're referring to. Hope that doesn't come off sounding jerky, I just can't figure our anything in that first pic
Double click on the photo and it will blow up.
 
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I'm seeing it full size on a 22" monitor...it doesn't get any bigger than I see it.

I can't tell if you're just placing these 2 pieces together, if they are bonded, what other joints are done...?

What are the pieces? front, side, end? What is the black piece supposed to be?

I think I need a few different pics. My mind is just not getting it with that one pic
 

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