Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

[Turbo's Aquatics]

What key words/ingredients am I looking for when purchasing acrylic for reef build?

Cell cast is the main term you need to know, or simply "cast" but that might also imply "continuous cast" which is not the same.

Arkema, Altuglas, they may not recognize these names. Try "Plexiglas Brand Name" they might have it in their system differently. Plexiglas-G is what you are after. GM is extruded, ok for some things but not a nice tank build. Also ask for PMACS (pronounced "pee-max") which is a generic version of Plexiglas-G.

Acrylite is the other brand. GP for cell cast, FF for extruded. You want the former but this also has kind of fallen off the list after some bad juju.

 

[West1]

Cell cast is the main term you need to know, or simply "cast" but that might also imply "continuous cast" which is not the same.

Arkema, Altuglas, they may not recognize these names. Try "Plexiglas Brand Name" they might have it in their system differently. Plexiglas-G is what you are after. GM is extruded, ok for some things but not a nice tank build. Also ask for PMACS (pronounced "pee-max") which is a generic version of Plexiglas-G.

Acrylite is the other brand. GP for cell cast, FF for extruded. You want the former but this also has kind of fallen off the list after some bad juju.

Got it!
Is the RTV-100 the way to go? I was looking for something I can pour on rather than use a caulking gun.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

Silicone + acrylic = non structural, you need to solvent weld. I would take a step back and learn about this process from the ground up - you don't pour anything on and would never use a caulking gun or similar applicator, unless you're talking about Weld-on 40 or 42 and those are not necessary until you get into very thick material and require what I consider advanced techniques.

 

[West1]

Silicone + acrylic = non structural, you need to solvent weld. I would take a step back and learn about this process from the ground up - you don't pour anything on and would never use a caulking gun or similar applicator, unless you're talking about Weld-on 40 or 42 and those are not necessary until you get into very thick material and require what I consider advanced techniques.

Yes and thank you for pointing that out. I seen this video and figured I would post it here in case there are more people who would like a mini video.
I received a quote for the pieces of Lucite (cast) and im looking at around $150. I may buy some homedepot pieces just to mess around with and get the hang of the process before the real deal.
Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!

 

[cromag27]

That video shows you how to build a box that will not hold water. go back to page one of this thread and you'll find the proper technique talked about many times. also, the stuff from the big box stores is not what you want to use, so I wouldn't even recommend practicing with it. contact your local plastic shop and ask if they have any scraps you can buy.

 

[cromag27]

I would not use 40. 3 or 4 would be appropriate if you don't mix your own.

Is Lucite reef safe?
I emailed a local plastic company and asked for Arkema or Altuglas. They said they do not carry this brand but have Lucite.
I know acrylic is like wood and has different types for different use. What key words/ingredients am I looking for when purchasing acrylic for reef build?
Also is weld-on#40 good for a 16"x16"x16" sump build@ 1/4 thick sheets?

 

[TherealplexiG]

16"x16"x16" sump

You might wanna go with 3/8 rather than 1/4.

 

[Aznxgqboyx]

Wanted to say thank you to @Floyd R Turbo and @Lowell Lemon for there input on my build. Thanks to them and this thread I was able to complete my first acrylic project.

How much in material did this cost to do?

 

[imustbenuts]

How much in material did this cost to do?

I spent $338 for 2 sheets, solvent cement, and applicator. I still have half a sheet of black and scraps of clear. It built a 23x23x18 sump, 18x6.5x18 ATO reservoir, and I still plan to build a dosing container.

 

[West1]

Soo, i had extra HDPE from a car audio build. I read it's reef safe and its recycle#2.
Since I got my "reef safe" info i went to town and made it to my desired internal over flow dimensions. Reading this whole thread again, I went to my local plastic depot and purchased a few lbs of scrap acrylic along with weld on#4.
Once I got the hang of using it, i decided to setup my overflow... Come to find out, I can not use weld on #4 w/HDPE. A few Google searches later i realize there is an intense process to bond HDPE and is not enviormentally friendly. With that said, before going to buy 3/8 acrylic to manually mill this out again, would using plastic screws to hold the 3pc overflow (2 sides, 1 center) together and seal the corners with caulking work as 2nd best to bonding acrylic pieces? It's for a biocube 29 if the water volume has a role in it.

 

[cromag27]

Save the hdpe for something nicer. for a BC29 I wouldn't go thicker than 1/8".

 

[West1]

Oops, forgot to mention. The sides are 1/2 and the front section is 1/4.
No go, best to start from scratch with fresh acrylic?

 

[TherealplexiG]

Yez sirr! Acrylic iz the best, just don't scratch it while you start..
Bond it with WO4 or WO3 or your own mix outlined by Bud.
It's better to ask your plastic shop to cut it for ya on their CNC, for better edges either climb cut if their machine is capable of producing or a two pass. Two pass is something like a rough cut not all the way through the sheet downwards and leaving a bit on the edge Approx 0.15" Then making a final pass taking material on the edge as well as bottom. If that makes sense, you're left with weldable edge directly from the cnc. Makes job easier as stated by Bud. Onsurd bits are too fly for acrylics, watch some of the youtube videos, they leave better edge than polishing of any sort but they are too pricy for a diy job. Your local plastic might carry those kinda bits, be sure to ask them to use them on your job.

 

[West1]

Will do, thx!

 

[cromag27]

Acrylic or abs, which is what biocubes come with. Anything more than 1/8" isn't necessary.

Oops, forgot to mention. The sides are 1/2 and the front section is 1/4.
No go, best to start from scratch with fresh acrylic?

 

[Aznxgqboyx]

I spent $338 for 2 sheets, solvent cement, and applicator. I still have half a sheet of black and scraps of clear. It built a 23x23x18 sump, 18x6.5x18 ATO reservoir, and I still plan to build a dosing container.

Man that makes me want to get into it, my glass sump is so regular. Lol

 

[NJHC]

This is an awesome and very impressive build, mad props Floyd!

 

[imustbenuts]

Man that makes me want to get into it, my glass sump is so regular. Lol

Nothing wrong with a regular glass sump. I just had limited space and couldn't find anything off the shelf that would fit my stand without lots of wasted space.
I spent more than the $338 in total. I didn't include the tools I bought. I purchased router table, router, router bits, saw blade, and other miscellaneous things. I probably spent more than just having it built by someone else. However, I get to keep the tools, I get to keep the experience, and I get to say I built it.

 

[Obsessed]

I had a sump come in damaged, the whole end was smashed in. I've cut the broken piece out, what would be the best way to fix it and what type of bonding material?

My thought was just get a piece of white 1/4 acrylic and bond it right to the top of the entire end of the sump.

 

[imustbenuts]

I had a sump come in damaged, the whole end was smashed in. I've cut the broken piece out, what would be the best way to fix it and what type of bonding material?

My thought was just get a piece of white 1/4 acrylic and bond it right to the top of the entire end of the sump.

You can't send it back to the manufacture for a replacement?