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Thank you Paul, I appreciate that! And thanks for stopping by!
Yesterday you falsely claimed that any pathogen added to an aquarium makes the fish stronger.
I believe this is why so many kids today have allergies and stay home from school all the time. Not enough dirt growing up and not enough playing outside. They won't boost their immunity by texting.I really wonder how many of you have children that are sick all of the time because you keep them too clean.
Absolutely. I guess that is another good sign of copper usage. Well, other than the small separate invert section, where they also have mandarin.
It’s actually consistent with everything that you’ve posted. The study from 1995 that you posted shows that most fish exposed to ich continued to be infected with ich, just at lower levels. It also clearly states IN THE SUMMARY that the fish exposed to ich did not have any additional resistance to other diseases. They also didn’t even have any additional resistance to a specific disease that the researchers felt was similar to ich and that they clearly expected to see additional resistance due to the similarities. The researchers found NO ADDITIONAL RESISTANCE to any disease from being exposed to ich.
If you are getting anything else from that research, you are ignoring what they researchers found and what they wrote in plain English as the SUMMARY OF THEIR FINDINGS.
You are trying to make it look like I have argued for something I never have. I have only stated that exposure to a parasite give it a resistance to that parasite. That makes the fish stronger. If you take a fish that is immune to CI and one that is not immune to CI and expose them to CI, which one is more likely to survive?A reasonable person would see that and say that this definitively proves that exposing fish to CI doesn't make them stronger against anything other the CI (for a short time). I can't even imagine what could possibly be in this study that @Brew12 thinks it proves his point, but it seems like he's somehow come to a conclusion that is opposite from what the actual researchers found.
If you ask me - this is the real reason why they run low copper - not needing much of cleaning - but that they can´t sayAbsolutely. I guess that is another good sign of copper usage. Well, other than the small separate invert section, where they also have mandarin.
I believe fish will have a stronger immune system the more parasites you have in the tank. Tanks with no parasites will have fish with almost no immunity against them. It is natural for fish to harbor parasites and they always did. Parasites have been with us since we crawled out of the swamp, hitch hiked on a meteorite or survived the Great flood with Noah depending on what you believe.
I could quote my own book as a reference, but that would just be silly.
Our life expectancies and quality of life have been increased exponentially by things like treated drinking water, soap, and vaccinations.
You are trying to make it look like I have argued for something I never have. I have only stated that exposure to a parasite give it a resistance to that parasite. That makes the fish stronger. If you take a fish that is immune to CI and one that is not immune to CI and expose them to CI, which one is more likely to survive?
The immune one you seem to claim is weaker?
The non immune one that you seem to claim is stronger for never having been exposed to the parasite?
The studies clearly show fish that have survived exposure to a parasite develop an immunity that makes subsequent exposure to that parasite less likely to be lethal. I don't see how you can argue that this weakens the fish instead of making it stronger.
If you think I have claimed anything other than that, feel free to go back through my posts and quote it. I have never claimed that adaptive immunity against one parasite had any impact on it's adaptive immunity to another parasite.
I don't have access to the full article, but the summary seems really clear (emphasis mine):
Acquired protection to Cryptocaryon irritans has been demonstrated for the first time, using the grey mullet,Chelon labrosus, as an experimental host. Fish, immunized by controlled infections, established immunity against challenge infections with C. irritans, the degree of protection correlating with both intensity and exposure levels, with relatively few fish developing full protection. Protection lasted for six months in the absence of re-exposure to the parasite. There was no evidence of cross-protection in mullet against infection with the closely related fish parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis.
A reasonable person would see that and say that this definitively proves that exposing fish to CI doesn't make them stronger against anything other the CI (for a short time). I can't even imagine what could possibly be in this study that @Brew12 thinks it proves his point, but it seems like he's somehow come to a conclusion that is opposite from what the actual researchers found.
Your post somewhere page 9 or so: What point is there in subjecting a tank to ich if you can simply prevent it from ever being there in the first place?
I noted that this was a broad statement
Again, we can easily prevent ich in our tanks via TTM and quarantine of all inverts.
I did say that. The adaptive immunity is pathogen specific. Exposure to a parasite is how you strengthen it. By stating "Adaptive immunity" it was qualified to mean the pathogen it was exposed to. If it wasn't parasite specific I would have referenced the innate immunity.This statement has not qualifications that you meant the pathogen that they were exposed to. You said adaptive immunity. Period.
My opinion is that if you've already started I wouldn't move them out until day 9 at therapeutic copper. That will still take care of velvet and ich. And yes, I am allowed to say this because I've already admitted to being a hypocrite. ;SorryI like to randomly jump in with comments, ha. So, here's another.
I am probably the worst kind of QT'er. I'm not that careful. I'm sure I've cross contaminated my separate QT tanks with my display and vice versa many times over. I haven't introduced the plague to my display up to this point. So, that begs the question, have I even brought in any fish with disease or parasites at a level that will affect those fish I already have? Maybe I have, maybe I haven't.
Why do I think that makes me the worst kind of QT'er? Because I am subjecting my fish to harmful medications and chemicals and keeping them in small boring tanks for weeks on end, but not in a careful way that assures I've eliminated the enemy. So, I'm probably doing it needlessly because I'm not following QT protocols to a T.
That said, my two current QT's with fish in have had copper present for awhile now. Last night I did a large water change on both tanks. I haven't hit the required time length (14 days, 30 days, whatever you follow) of therapeutic copper on either tank but to be quite honest, none of the fish have ever given me reason to believe they are sick or infested with anything. So, I think I'm going to eliminate the copper now, and very shortly move them on into the display.
Am I half scared to do it? Of course. But, I'm also half confident things will go well. Every once in awhile, you just have to take a leap of faith.
I was thinking he should move it into his sump on day 9....If you want to know my experiences (which not is scientific proven to be right) they will come here. When a fish has died for me in connection with an introduction – it has always been the newcomer – never ever the old fishes. If you stop the copper – let it go some time before introduction. During that time – do WC with help of water from your DT every second to third day – small in the beginning. If you get any indication of disease – you can treat in your QT
Sincerely Lasse
I quarantined for 76 days to remove ich and velvet form my display tank. I got rid of the Velvelt which is what killed like 4 of my fish. My tank currently has ich and only appears on the purple tang. By appear I mean like one or two dots at a time. I’m not worried about ich but velvet is a different monster. I still quarantine every piece of coral for 45 days and quarantine fish. I don’t wanna introduce any new strains of ich or velvet. I focus on feeding a lot and use LRS soaked in selconSeawitch submitted a new Article:
A Hypocrites View on Not Using Quarantine
Little in this hobby stirs up as much emotional debate as discussions on quarantining fish. Threads on prophylactic treatment, ich management, and immunity are regularly hashed out until people are burned out. Passions run high, and for good reason. Both sides of the debate feel their practices are what are best for the fish, and they all care deeply about the health of their fish.
The display tank of @Brew12.
Photo is courtesy of the author, @Brew12, ©2019, All Rights Reserved.
I will admit it. I am a hypocrite when it comes to this topic. Every fish in my tank has been treated with copper or chloroquine phosphate. Most have also been treated with Metroplex, Kanaplex and praziquantel. Almost every fish I have received has had Cryptocaryon irritans, Amyloodinium ocellatum, flukes and/or uronema. I feel that my greatest chance of successfully keeping healthy fish is through treating for these even if they aren’t showing symptoms. And yet, I know that this is not sustainable. The future of this hobby will depend on us getting away from prophylactic treatment. I know this, and yet I can’t get myself to change. I am certainly a hypocrite.
The freshwater world of cichlid-keeping experienced a crisis due to overuse of prophylactic treatment. African cichlids routinely developed bloat. It was found that bloat could be easily treated using metronidazole. With everyone using metronidazole, keeping cichlids became easy. Many fish were saved that otherwise would have been lost to bloat, and the cichlid hobby lived happily ever after.
Except that isn’t how the story went. It took less than 10 years before metronidazole become completely ineffective against cichlid bloat. Fish deaths increased, and the only known cure was no longer effective. Fortunately, it was found that a natural food could be used that would prevent cichlid bloat. This cheap and readily available “cure” was widely adopted and keeping cichlids was easy again. Interestingly enough, several years after it fell out of widespread use, metronidazole became effective again and can still be used to treat acute cases of cichlid bloat.
What are we going to do in this hobby when copper no longer kills ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) or velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum) at levels that aren’t also fatal to the fish? How will we react when praziquantel-resistant flukes become the norm or when internal parasites and bacterial infections no longer respond to metronidazole or kanamycin? I believe this is inevitable, and the more widely used these products are the sooner it will happen. I feel we need to start planning for this sooner rather than later.
An African cichlid, Cyphotilapia frontosa.
This is a royalty-free photo courtesy of Christy Hammer from Pixabay.
Fortunately, we do have people who have successfully kept fish without prophylactic treatment that we may be able to learn from. I’ve tried to gather as much information as I could from them and figure out what they have in common; I wanted to share my observations.
Fish Nutrition:
The immune system of a fish is a fascinating thing. This immune system is fueled by the food the fish consumes. It is more than having the right amount of proteins, fats, vitamins and minerals although those are also important. Gut microbiota (probiotics) play a critical role in the health of a fish. The most reliable way of supplying microbiota is through fresh live foods. That isn’t an option for many of us but frozen foods can be almost as good. All frozen foods made from quality ingredients will contain some of the necessary bacteria. Some frozen food suppliers, such as LRS Foods, add probiotics to their foods prior to freezing. It is important to minimize the number of times the food is thawed and re-frozen as each cycle will kill additional bacteria. There is nothing wrong with using pellets or flake food but they should be supplemented by at least some fresh or frozen foods on a regular basis.
Feeding the proper amount is also important. Feed the fish what the fish need to be healthy. If you are cutting back on how much you feed because of algae issues or to try and reduce nitrates you are risking the health of those fish. Find other methods to address those issues. Properly fed does not mean overfed. One feeding a day should be plenty for most fish. A healthy tank will have pods and algae that fish will graze on to supplement what you provide.
Fish Stocking:
Stress is the enemy of the fish immune system. One way we can reduce the stress on fish is to make sure we are stocking our tanks properly. Thanks to the Tang Police, we know we should take the fish size and swimming habits into consideration when determining if a fish is right for whatever size tank we have. We do need to take compatibility into consideration when it comes to stocking our tanks, too.
We need to take aggression level into account. We may not be able to keep two similar fish or two of the same species together. Some wrasses can be mixed easily but other combinations may not work. Do your homework prior to going to the fish store. Keep in mind that we aren’t looking for fish that might be able to get along if we are lucky. We want compatible fish that will live together with minimal stress.
Another thing to keep in mind is that we may need dithering fish to keep stress down. Some fish may hide unless they see other fish swimming around for fear of a predator being nearby. Dithering fish are fish that will more readily swim in the open to reassure the less assertive fish that the area is safe. This has the side benefit of drawing your shy fish out for more public observation.
Acclimation:
We should expect any fish we purchase to be in a stressed and weakened condition. They may have been plucked from the ocean and moved through several systems along with multiple overnight flights over the course of a week. Odds are they have not been fed well during this time, if at all. Unless your system doesn’t have other fish yet, or is extremely peaceful, it may be best to not just dump the fish into your display to fend for itself. At the very least I would recommend using an acclimation box for a few days. This will allow the fish time to adjust to your system and feeding regime without having to compete with its tank mates. Another option, if your system has room for it, is to let the fish acclimate in the sump for a few weeks and then move them into the display tank.
It is also not unusual for local fish stores and wholesale suppliers to keep their fish in water with a salinity below 1.017. Some fish can adapt to a sudden increase in salinity to 1.025 but others may struggle. For this reason alone it may be worth setting up a quarantine system to keep the fish isolated while gradually raising salinity over the course of a week. The fish can also adjust to your feeding habits during this time giving you a better chance for success when you do add them to the display tank.
Aquascaping:
There is more to aquascaping than just making it look nice. We want it to meet the needs of our fish. Are we going to have enough hiding spots for our fish? Do some fish need a sand bed? Will the fish have enough open swimming area? Will they still have enough swimming area when the coral grows in? One sure way to have aggression is to not have a place for each fish to hide at night and aggression leads to sick fish.
System Stability:
This is a very broad term and I am only going to hit the highlights. We should do our best to provide a consistent environment for our fish. We should monitor our systems regularly to ensure all our equipment is operating properly. It is important to keep spare pumps and heaters so we aren’t panicked if we have a failure on a Saturday night. A heater controller is also a great idea as temperature spikes have been known to cause disease outbreaks in tanks. Using an ATO system will help if we can’t regularly top off the tanks manually.
Parasite Control:
If we have weakened fish that we have just added to our system, it will help to have a system in place to help limit the number of parasites that can attack the fish. The most commonly recognized methods of parasite control are ultraviolet (UV) filters and ozone. Most UV filters have two recommended flow rates, one for algae and a slower flow rate for parasites. Ozone generators can be used to damage the cell walls of the parasites and kill them before they infect the fish.
Photo courtesy of @Brew12, ©2019, All Rights Reserved.
Another observation I have made is that people who are successful keeping fish without prophylactic treatment are well populated with corals having large polyps. We know ich and velvet need hard surfaces to attach on so that they may reproduce. Fewer hard surfaces due to coral growth may make the parasites travel further prior to finding a place to attach. Coral polyps are known to eat copepods and other small organisms. I suspect that they also eat the parasites both looking for a place to encyst and again as they get blown around trying to find a host. If I ever do set up a system that doesn’t rely on prophylactic treatment I will load up on these natural mouths by adding Green Star Polyps, Zoanthids, and any other corals that can directly consume small organisms.
Another way parasite control happens in a more mature tank is through "decoy" fish. The free-swimming parasites have no way of knowing which fish in the tank have a strong immune system and which have a weakened one. Parasites that land on a fish with a strong immune system will reproduce in very low numbers, if at all, which will help protect newly added weakened fish while they build their immunity.
The display tank of @Lasse.
This photo is courtesy of and used with permission from @Lasse, ©2019, All Rights Reserved.
And quickly, I want to address something that doesn't work. Cleaner fish and shrimp are not likely to have much impact on the parasites and only clean up the mucus and dead skin from the parasite entry location. There is no evidence that either will eat the parasite itself.
I hope people out there who are struggling with fish disease but don’t want to treat prophylactically have found this useful. And don’t feel like you need to do each of these perfectly, just do as well as you are able. The better you do any of them, the more likely you can have a failure in a different area while keeping your fish healthy. A poorly fed system that is overstocked with aggressive fish will do much worse during a heater failure than a system that is well fed and properly stocked.
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Author Profile: @Brew 12
Steven Frick has spent much more time under the ocean than keeping a small piece of it. He got his start in the electrical field in the US Navy Nuclear Power program as an electrician's mate. After 5 years of service on the submarine USS Henry M Jackson he finished his final 3+ years of service teaching electrical theory at the Knolls Atomic Power Laboratory.
Currently, he runs the projects and maintenance for the power distribution system of one of largest electrical consuming heavy industrial companies in the Southeastern United States. He wrote his sites' electrical safety policies and routinely acts as a consultant to other industrial facilities looking to improve their electrical safety programs. As someone who loves to both learn and teach, he has focused his attention on his newest hobby, reefing.
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