75 gallon with fish only with ich

[vetteguy53081]

Yeah I feel like this could be a good option. I could manage a quarantine with the fish but not for long so this feels like a good option however it’s just a question if such small fish could handle it


Yeah I’ve got coppersafe on hand, I understand it’s very difficult to remove but I wonder if I used cuprasorb if it would absorb the coppersafe

I definetely would quarantine and fallow but it’s going to be very difficult and expensive to do. I feel like if there are other options since I have no corals or proper inverts then it might be better

I suppose it just depends on if I can get the copper out. Might take quite a bit of high volume water changes but I wonder if it’s possible. Does copper absorb into the rocks/sand?

Copper does absorb into rocks and sand. Some smaller fish are intolerant but a chance you take. Cuprisorb is a good product but you will want to do a couple of copper tests to assure level is zero to very very low

 

[Cheems]

Glad there aren’t any spots on him, when my tang got ich the clowns never got the dots either… I’ve had my eye set one of those exact angels since I got in the hobby. As soon as the 100 gallon is setup I’m grabbing one, I absolutely love them.

I cannot recommend multicolored angels more! I absolutely adore them and this one has such a personality along with in my opinion maybe one of the prettiest colorings
They are shy and like the dark but I’m sure that will get better with mine. They are rare and expensive though

Copper does absorb into rocks and sand. Some smaller fish are intolerant but a chance you take. Cuprisorb is a good product but you will want to do a couple of copper tests to assure level is zero to very very low

Hmm, I’m worried because my tomini and angel are really small. Is there any way to minimize this risk? Even if they were in quarantine I would still be using copper most likely so I worry that no matter what, I have to put the fish at risk but I’m still wanting the safest method. Also should I freshwater dip the neon goby because of the ich on it currently?

Edit: oh also should I just follow the dose instructions on the bottle? And should I have test strips on hand before testing. Also is the electronic tester or test packets from hannah brand work best. Also I see seachem makes a copper test. The hannah tester is very expensive and I don’t have the cash on hand right now

 

[vetteguy53081]

I cannot recommend multicolored angels more! I absolutely adore them and this one has such a personality along with in my opinion maybe one of the prettiest colorings
They are shy and like the dark but I’m sure that will get better with mine. They are rare and expensive though


Hmm, I’m worried because my tomini and angel are really small. Is there any way to minimize this risk? Even if they were in quarantine I would still be using copper most likely so I worry that no matter what, I have to put the fish at risk but I’m still wanting the safest method. Also should I freshwater dip the neon goby because of the ich on it currently?

Edit: oh also should I just follow the dose instructions on the bottle? And should I have test strips on hand before testing. Also is the electronic tester or test packets from hannah brand work best. Also I see seachem makes a copper test. The hannah tester is very expensive and I don’t have the cash on hand right now

minimizing will be based on water quality and diet and remember risk. Test kit is a must. If you go by bottle instructions, go less than more

 

[Cheems]

minimizing will be based on water quality and diet and remember risk. Test kit is a must. If you go by bottle instructions, go less than more

Hmm ok. What test kit though would you recommend on a budget unless it’s absolutely neccisary to buy the digital.

I also got a video of the goby and a picture showing the ich raised up on its back. Excuse the poorly drawn arrows I’m on my phone

Also, fw dip?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Yeah I feel like this could be a good option. I could manage a quarantine with the fish but not for long so this feels like a good option however it’s just a question if such small fish could handle it


Yeah I’ve got coppersafe on hand, I understand it’s very difficult to remove but I wonder if I used cuprasorb if it would absorb the coppersafe

I definetely would quarantine and fallow but it’s going to be very difficult and expensive to do. I feel like if there are other options since I have no corals or proper inverts then it might be better

I suppose it just depends on if I can get the copper out. Might take quite a bit of high volume water changes but I wonder if it’s possible. Does copper absorb into the rocks/sand?

Hyposalinity is the best option for treating your display. If you are going to use a QT, copper is better. The reason to use hypo in your display is that it cuts down on the fallow period.

 

[Cheems]

Hyposalinity is the best option for treating your display. If you are going to use a QT, copper is better. The reason to use hypo in your display is that it cuts down on the fallow period.

Hmm… that would be a lot cheaper and I wouldn’t have to worry about removing it afterwards, you said it cuts down the fallow period so how long do you think it would take for my tank to be ich free once I start treatment

I ended up ordering a copper tester anyways because I decided it would be helpful during quarantining fish, so if I need to there’s also that option

would these fish be able to handle that though is my only concern. Especially the multicolored angelfish and tomini tang because they are both maybe around 1.5 inches long

Right now my plan assuming this is the best method is:
-Raise the temperature a bit
-take snails out
-hypo the tank

Would dosing ruby rally pro help with secondary infections?

 

[Cheems]

I got the clearest video so far of the neon goby. I’ve been watching the other fish too. Maybe I should quarantine just the goby?

I’m a little confused on what the best route would be from here as I’ve heard multiple different answers. Im leaning towards hyposalinity because it’s not introducing chemicals or metals into the water.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hmm… that would be a lot cheaper and I wouldn’t have to worry about removing it afterwards, you said it cuts down the fallow period so how long do you think it would take for my tank to be ich free once I start treatment

I ended up ordering a copper tester anyways because I decided it would be helpful during quarantining fish, so if I need to there’s also that option

would these fish be able to handle that though is my only concern. Especially the multicolored angelfish and tomini tang because they are both maybe around 1.5 inches long

Right now my plan assuming this is the best method is:
-Raise the temperature a bit
-take snails out
-hypo the tank

Would dosing ruby rally pro help with secondary infections?

First, don’t raise the temperature - that’s incorrect advice that just won’t die. Freshwater ich, a different parasite, dies out in warmer water. Marine ich just reproduces faster and the fish get sicker if you raise the temp. 78 to 80 degrees is fine.
You take a couple of days to gradually reac a specific gravity of 1.009. Then hold it exactly there for 30 days, and take 5 days or so to gradually return the fish to full salinity….so about 37 days all told. Your invertebrates should stay out for a minimum of 45 days at 84 degrees or 60 days below 80.

 

[Cheems]

First, don’t raise the temperature - that’s incorrect advice that just won’t die. Freshwater ich, a different parasite, dies out in warmer water. Marine ich just reproduces faster and the fish get sicker if you raise the temp. 78 to 80 degrees is fine.
You take a couple of days to gradually reac a specific gravity of 1.009. Then hold it exactly there for 30 days, and take 5 days or so to gradually return the fish to full salinity….so about 37 days all told. Your invertebrates should stay out for a minimum of 45 days at 84 degrees or 60 days below 80.

yeah that all sounds very doable. I didnt raise the temp too high I had just raised it from the 77 it was at to 79. That sounds around the same speed as doing a quarantine and seems less stressful for the fish (they dont have to move) so this seems like the best option. No copper to remove afterwards and it should work. My only worry is that ive heard a refractometer isnt accurate enough. Ive always had good reads on my refractometer, do I need something else?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

yeah that all sounds very doable. I didnt raise the temp too high I had just raised it from the 77 it was at to 79. That sounds around the same speed as doing a quarantine and seems less stressful for the fish (they dont have to move) so this seems like the best option. No copper to remove afterwards and it should work. My only worry is that ive heard a refractometer isnt accurate enough. Ive always had good reads on my refractometer, do I need something else?

I use a lab grade glass hydrometer. Another option is to use two devices - a refractometer and a swing arm hydrometer. As long as they agree, you should be fine.

 

[Fred A.]

Yeah I understand fallowing the tank would be best but it would be extremely difficult for me to set up a reasonably sized quarantine as these fish are relatively active even if all of them are under 2 inches

I’m wondering since there’s just fish in the tank if I would be able to do copper treatment straight into the tank or do hyposalinity in the tank.


Interesting, is cupramarine just copper? I have coppersafe on hand so perhaps that could be used instead. I’m not sure so whatever medication would be best.

My hope is that I don’t have to quarantine due to not having ANY good space for a good size quarantine since they are active fish

I've used coppersafe and cupramine (at different times) without quarantine very effectively. No negative impact to healthy fish and ick gone in about a week. Use a dose per the instructions. Not too hard really.

 

[Cheems]

I've used coppersafe and cupramine (at different times) without quarantine very effectively. No negative impact to healthy fish and ick gone in about a week. Use a dose per the instructions. Not too hard really.

yeah it seems simple the only difficult part is to get it out of the tank afterwards. I ordered a proper hannah copper tester and cuprisorb but I still am leaning towards hyposalinity due to copper being difficult to get out of a system. I just worry the fish will struggle in hyposalinity more than copper.

I use a lab grade glass hydrometer. Another option is to use two devices - a refractometer and a swing arm hydrometer. As long as they agree, you should be fine.

alright that seems like a good idea, I will get one

my only question is if I were to quarantine and do the tank switch method, is there any way to sterilize the display tank of ich. Because if I could get the fish+tank clean quicker than 30 days while it being safe that would be my favorite option as the constant checking and maintanence is a lot to do daily and if it were for a shorter amount of time that would be easier. Plus I also had a few fish that I ordered in at my lfs that will be waiting in quarantine for the big display tank once they get here

 

[.AcroKiller.]

If the tank has no corals you can dose the tank with copper. I know that a lot of people would say you can’t but i done it multiple times and was able to remove all the copper afterwards. I found this out years ago when my son dump a small bottle of cupramine in my sps tank. All my corals expelled their zooxanthellae and went completely pale. I used poly filters and cuprisorb 24/7 until they stoped turning blue then I sent a triton icp and it came back with normal copper levels. All the corals bounced back.

 

[Cheems]

If the tank has no corals you can dose the tank with copper. I know that a lot of people would say you can’t but i done it multiple times and was able to remove all the copper afterwards. I found this out years ago when my son dump a small bottle of cupramine in my sps tank. All my corals expelled their zooxanthellae and went completely pale. I used poly filters and cuprisorb 24/7 until they stoped turning blue then I sent a triton icp and it came back with normal copper levels. All the corals bounced back.

hmm interesting. It is too late now as I have started running hyposalinity but if I ever run into a problem like this again thats really good to know. Out of curiosity what is your tank size? im wondering if larger tanks are more difficult to get the copper out of

 

[.AcroKiller.]

hmm interesting. It is too late now as I have started running hyposalinity but if I ever run into a problem like this again thats really good to know. Out of curiosity what is your tank size? im wondering if larger tanks are more difficult to get the copper out of

The tank that had the accidental copper dosed to it was a 130 gallon 60x30x16. The other one I dose on purpose is a 60 shallow.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Cupramine absorbs into the sand/rocks more than coppersafe does. The trouble is this: you can remove the dissolved copper through water changes and cuprisorb, but you cannot tell how much of the copper got bound up in the rock/sand. If the contact time was minimal, there is no issue, but if you run a full copper treatment on a tank with rock and sand, enough copper gets bound up into the rockwork that if the tank has a pH drop later on, that copper can be released, killing the corals/inverts.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

yeah it seems simple the only difficult part is to get it out of the tank afterwards. I ordered a proper hannah copper tester and cuprisorb but I still am leaning towards hyposalinity due to copper being difficult to get out of a system. I just worry the fish will struggle in hyposalinity more than copper.


alright that seems like a good idea, I will get one

my only question is if I were to quarantine and do the tank switch method, is there any way to sterilize the display tank of ich. Because if I could get the fish+tank clean quicker than 30 days while it being safe that would be my favorite option as the constant checking and maintanence is a lot to do daily and if it were for a shorter amount of time that would be easier. Plus I also had a few fish that I ordered in at my lfs that will be waiting in quarantine for the big display tank once they get here

No - there is no way to "sterilize" a tank for ich that will not also harm invertebrates. The best way to deal with that is to wait it out - holding the tank for 45 to 60 days with no fish in it will cause the ich parasite (and others) to died out due to a lack of a host. The 45 days is for water temperatures greater than 81, and the 60 days is for water temperatures less than 80.

 

[Cheems]

No - there is no way to "sterilize" a tank for ich that will not also harm invertebrates. The best way to deal with that is to wait it out - holding the tank for 45 to 60 days with no fish in it will cause the ich parasite (and others) to died out due to a lack of a host. The 45 days is for water temperatures greater than 81, and the 60 days is for water temperatures less than 80.

Yeah I know there’s no way to do it without harming invertebrates but is there a way to do it with a tank without inverts? I know ich “eggs” are very difficult to kill but is there any way to? I have already started Hyposalinity and I obviously don’t plan on trying to do said thing to kill the ich “eggs” but I’m wondering out of curiosity

The tank that had the accidental copper dosed to it was a 130 gallon 60x30x16. The other one I dose on purpose is a 60 shallow.

Interesting, so that’s a larger tank so maybe it doesn’t have to do with tank size

 

[.AcroKiller.]

Cupramine absorbs into the sand/rocks more than coppersafe does. The trouble is this: you can remove the dissolved copper through water changes and cuprisorb, but you cannot tell how much of the copper got bound up in the rock/sand. If the contact time was minimal, there is no issue, but if you run a full copper treatment on a tank with rock and sand, enough copper gets bound up into the rockwork that if the tank has a pH drop later on, that copper can be released, killing the corals/inverts.

Not true. This is what everyone goes by. Have you had real life experience with it cause I do and everything copper is completely gone.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Yeah I know there’s no way to do it without harming invertebrates but is there a way to do it with a tank without inverts? I know ich “eggs” are very difficult to kill but is there any way to? I have already started Hyposalinity and I obviously don’t plan on trying to do said thing to kill the ich “eggs” but I’m wondering out of curiosity


Interesting, so that’s a larger tank so maybe it doesn’t have to do with tank size

Full Hyposalinity at 1.009 seems to take out the testing tomont stage in 30 days.