20 ppm Nitrate/0.06 ppm Phosphate - Cure my analysis paralysis!

Rick Krejci

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I'd ditch the GFO as well, or just run a smaller amount, and concentrate on the fuge light/Chateo. When you remove the Phosphates specifically, the algae will be Phosphate limited, lowering it's ability to remove Nitrate. At .06 Phosphate, a good balance point would be about 2ppm Nitrate. I find with just Chaeto/skimmer export, this ratio is balanced. My feeding tends to preferentially raise Phosphates to Nitrates, so I do occasionally dose Nitrates since they tend to completely bottom out. I do use a H380, which is a monster and way overkill for my Reefer 250. But I can modify the number of hours it runs to slow the process down, which is better than having an under-powered light that never catches up.

You're levels are generally un-concerning, but you need to eliminate some variable so you can hit a stable point. I think with just a good fuge light, the Nitrates will make their way down as the feeding keeps the Phosphates higher.

Water changes don't hurt, but they do introduce another variable as you're trying to figure out your balance point but with your low overall coral population in your tank, trace elements replenishment would be near the bottom of my list
 

Kurt Grant

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Ok I'm the reverse i have 0 no3 the cheato sucked it dry what can I do beside over feeding to add no3 my mixed reef. My corals not looking the way i want and even thou i see growth its slowwwww!!!
 

Rick Krejci

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Ok I'm the reverse i have 0 no3 the cheato sucked it dry what can I do beside over feeding to add no3 my mixed reef. My corals not looking the way i want and even thou i see growth its slowwwww!!!
You can Dose Nitrates if your Phosphate levels are a little higher (say above 0.05ppm). I use the Spectricide Stump remover (Potassium Nitrate). If both Nitrate and Potassium are zero, I'd reduce the Chaeto growth (reducing photo period) rather than feed more and dosing.
 

Lasse

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Another trick - not used by so many - ad a biofilter (if you want it as a sole NO3 producer – put it before the skimmer and the fuge) I use a very simple DIY – see picture. In my case – I want it to produce bacteria for my filter feeders (I squeeze it now and then) so its situated before the return pump. I have also my fuge directly after the DT – before the sump (and hence the skimmer) in order to suck up most of the NH4 produced during night time. Hence my system is not optimal for NO3 production but my filter will take up the NH4/NH3 that the algae and the skimmer not manage with. (yes - the skimmer normally remove NH4/NH3 in the form of NH3 through gas exchange)

My pump is adjustable

P1190286.JPG

In spite of this - my system is constantly NO3 limited - I ad KNO3 mostly - NaNO3 sometimes - every day

Sincerely Lasse
 

Kurt Grant

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You can Dose Nitrates if your Phosphate levels are a little higher (say above 0.05ppm). I use the Spectricide Stump remover (Potassium Nitrate). If both Nitrate and Potassium are zero, I'd reduce the Chaeto growth (reducing photo period) rather than feed more and dosing.
Ummm is that thing reef safe??? It kills stumps..my point of sale Fluctuate Between 0.00 to 0.06 I try to keep it up yeah i migh have to Reduce my cheato to have a balance
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Ummm is that thing reef safe??? It kills stumps..

lol

It doesn't kill stumps. It promotes microorganisms that consume the stumps.

Spectracide says it is 100.0% potassium nitrate, and the experience of many reefers suggests it is fine.

That said, I'd pay a little extra to get food grade sodium or potassium nitrate. :)
 
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pluikens

pluikens

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lol

It doesn't kill stumps. It promotes microorganisms that consume the stumps.

Spectracide says it is 100.0% potassium nitrate, and the experience of many reefers suggests it is fine.

That said, I'd pay a little extra to get food grade sodium or potassium nitrate. :)
What are your thoughts on using Seachem Flourish Phosphorus? (Not for my tank but too add phosphate.)
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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What are your thoughts on using Seachem Flourish Phosphorus? (Not for my tank but too add phosphate.)

It is likely fine, but I'd prefer a material with a known quality grade, such as sodium or potassium phosphate that is food, USP or reagent grade. :)
 

Kurt Grant

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lol

It doesn't kill stumps. It promotes microorganisms that consume the stumps.

Spectracide says it is 100.0% potassium nitrate, and the experience of many reefers suggests it is fine.

That said, I'd pay a little extra to get food grade sodium or potassium nitrate. :)
I'm new to the no3 thing so excuse me i dont mind spending the loot so what would you suggest I use ie name of the product and how much to dose in a 100g mixed reef and about 40 gal sump? I see potassium comes in a power form is that the correct one
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I'm new to the no3 thing so excuse me i dont mind spending the loot so what would you suggest I use ie name of the product and how much to dose in a 100g mixed reef and about 40 gal sump? I see potassium comes in a power form is that the correct one

There are lots of suppliers. Here's one:

https://www.amazon.com/Science-Company-NC-8794-Potassium-Saltpeter/dp/B06XDGNHZL

Then you can use this calculator to figure doses:

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm
 

aarbutina

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It is likely fine, but I'd prefer a material with a known quality grade, such as sodium or potassium phosphate that is food, USP or reagent grade. :)

Hey @Randy Holmes-Farley, I totally get what you are saying. It just seems like there are a lot of unknowns around The Flourish Phosphorus. That being said if someone was going to my a reagent grand Sodium Phosphate do you think there is a reason to select the monobasic over the dibasic (or the other way around). My thinking would be that the monobasic makes the most sense since the ratio of sodium to phosphate is 1 to 1. Other than that I don't see a reason.

My other thinking would be that folks might want to stick to the sodium phosphate if they are also using potassium nitrate to dose for nitrate. Using both potassium based salts would increase the risk of over dosing the potassium in my mind. Although the amount of phosphate one would be dosing to maintain a concentration of ~ 0.02 or below would be relatively low. Just a thought.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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The amount you are going to dose is minor, but the different types will have different but small impacts on pH and alkalinity. The more sodium’s per phosphate the higher the pH and alk boost.
 

aarbutina

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The amount you are going to dose is minor, but the different types will have different but small impacts on pH and alkalinity. The more sodium’s per phosphate the higher the pH and alk boost.

Makes sense to me. Thanks again Randy.
 

Kurt Grant

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Randy i got the potassium thanks alot for your help. Would I notice a difference right away? Or will it take some time
 

Kurt Grant

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Some have change color my wd and op corals Definitely changed colors but maybe in going crazy ive seen growth in most of them since monday when i added the potassium im at a lost for words!!! I just order a hanna cheaker to keep a eye on the nit dont want to get out of hand lol!!!
 

aarbutina

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Some have change color my wd and op corals Definitely changed colors but maybe in going crazy ive seen growth in most of them since monday when i added the potassium im at a lost for words!!! I just order a hanna cheaker to keep a eye on the nit dont want to get out of hand lol!!!

Hanna does not make a Nitrate Checker. They do make a nitrite checker though.

They do have a bench too nitrate photometer but it is $220 dollars.


Ahhh maybe you meant the potassium. But they don’t have a checker for that either
 

Kurt Grant

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Hanna does not make a Nitrate Checker. They do make a nitrite checker though.

They do have a bench too nitrate photometer but it is $220 dollars.


Ahhh maybe you meant the potassium. But they don’t have a checker for that either
Yes I no and i just bought it
 
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