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BroccoliFarmer

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I designed a Polyfil cup for my sump and sent it over to the library. I asked for 2 copies and they quoted me $12. I asked if that was for 2 and they replied back "Oops. No, that's each." $25 to replace my 7" socks isn't bad but I realized I made it 7" deep... Not sure I need that much Polyfil. Gonna redesign a little shallower.
I did mine about 3 inches deep. One of the good reasons for a deep cup is that you can put additional filter media underneath. GFO, Carbon, etc.

Also, nothing says you have to fill it to the top. Just make sure your drain holes only are on the bottom 3 inches of the cup.
 
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steveschuerger

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Hmm...I gave up on socks about six months ago. Use media caddies on each side of the back space of my SR60. Seems to work pretty good and my water is usually crystal clear. Use about 8 poly-fill balls on each side and replace once a week.
 

Rennurdoar

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Good morning beautiful people!

Ok, ICP results are back, help me decipher them! I think everything is ok, maybe need iodine?

RODI water and DT water. The one thing I see is Aluminum, and I don't know if it's good or bad, I figure bad. I have no idea where it would have come from though?

DT Water

RODI Water
 
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StatelineReefer

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You need iodide supplementing. I would also look to remove that aluminum, as it can disrupt ion transfer in both fish and invertibrates. In corals that means oxidative stress and an inability to transfer aminos and sugars through their cell walls from their dinoflagellate buddies, the zooxanthellae.
 

Rennurdoar

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You need iodide supplementing. I would also look to remove that aluminum, as it can disrupt ion transfer in both fish and invertibrates. In corals that means oxidative stress and an inability to transfer aminos and sugars through their cell walls from their dinoflagellate buddies, the zooxanthellae.

I was curious on the iodine, if I should add some or not. I do like that they have the recommended dosing at the bottom, just saw that! Going to do another WC, hopefully that will bring my Aluminum down some. I don't think it's at to high a level just yet, from some reading I was doing. Better to be safe than sorry though, so WC it is, need to do one anyway :)
 

StatelineReefer

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I was curious on the iodine, if I should add some or not. I do like that they have the recommended dosing at the bottom, just saw that! Going to do another WC, hopefully that will bring my Aluminum down some. I don't think it's at to high a level just yet, from some reading I was doing. Better to be safe than sorry though, so WC it is, need to do one anyway :)
I would supplement iodiDe. More bioavailable.

 

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steveschuerger

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Seachem Iodide is good. I would not supplement lugols as per randy holmes.
I’ve been using the SeaChem with good results as far as I can tell. Dose about once a week. My Zoas which I’ve not had good luck with in the past seem particularly happy since.
 

billyocean

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You got a link on the Lugol's thing? Never saw that and I'm interested as I've been using Lugol's
There's just other stuff unspecified in it is all I think. I used to use it but switched to seachem...way cheaper than lugols too. Just use lugols for dips.
 

Kasrift

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Good morning beautiful people!

Ok, ICP results are back, help me decipher them! I think everything is ok, maybe need iodine?

RODI water and DT water. The one thing I see is Aluminum, and I don't know if it's good or bad, I figure bad. I have no idea where it would have come from though?

DT Water

RODI Water
RO water might need a change of filter stuff, has some silicates. I don't run my own RODI kit, so not sure what other people see in their ICPs, I just know when I ran mine on the water I get from AquaSD, it was 0 on my ati . The rest of the results don't look too bad except the aluminum. I'd drop in Metasorb to adsorb the aluminum and then look at what might be raising that value, like Seachem Phosguard, Seachem Matrix (some claims of this leaching), different biobricks also have different claims of leaching aluminum or metals.
 

Thuan

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Corals prefer small water change 1x over big one 2x/week. Mango pe more and the red dragon is starting to encrust very nicely
 

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Rennurdoar

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RO water might need a change of filter stuff, has some silicates. I don't run my own RODI kit, so not sure what other people see in their ICPs, I just know when I ran mine on the water I get from AquaSD, it was 0 on my ati . The rest of the results don't look too bad except the aluminum. I'd drop in Metasorb to adsorb the aluminum and then look at what might be raising that value, like Seachem Phosguard, Seachem Matrix (some claims of this leaching), different biobricks also have different claims of leaching aluminum or metals.

I'd say you just diagnosed where it came from. I've been running matrix since the 65g. It's what's scattered all across the bottom of my Sump...

I'll just keep up on the WCs now and monitor it. I don't know if I want to take it out or not at this point lol. @Randy Holmes-Farley mentioned in one of his posts that aluminum usually is only an issue at higher levels, 4-500 I think.

I'll monitor the silicates also. I am getting close to my replacement time on them.
 
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Kasrift

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I'd say you just diagnosed where it came from. I've been running matrix since the 65g. It's what's scattered all across the bottom of my Sump...

I'll just keep up on the WCs now and monitor it. I don't know if I want to take it out or not at this point lol. @Randy Holmes-Farley mentioned in one of his posts that aluminum usually is only an issue at higher levels, 4-500 I think.

I'll monitor the silicates also. I am getting close to my replacement time on them.
I just bought new media a few weeks ago to replace my Seachem Matrix as well. I got the Maxspect ones from Coralvue since they were on closeout cheap https://www.coralvue.com/maxspect-nano-tech-bio-spheres
 

Rennurdoar

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I just bought new media a few weeks ago to replace my Seachem Matrix as well. I got the Maxspect ones from Coralvue since they were on closeout cheap https://www.coralvue.com/maxspect-nano-tech-bio-spheres

I have ceramic media also with the matrix in the sump. I pretty much just took the media out of the canister filter we were running on the 65g. Then put all that media into the sump, except the sponges. Wanted to keep all the microfauna/bacteria that may have been thriving living there, so used that instead of new media.

I may slowly change out the matrix if I don't see levels come down. I'm going to do another ATI ICP test next week to check everything again.
 

Kasrift

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So here is that same mushroom I posted the other day with a different lens, it still doesn’t capture the full scale orangeness of the shroom.
IMG_0645.jpeg

And then one other shroom from SBB looks like it is going to bounce. It is an orange eruption shroom I think, so it is hard to capture, but it is getting very bubbly on the edges, this photo makes it look like it is bleaching but it definitely isn’t:

IMG_0646.jpeg

Just wondering if anyone else has an SBB shroom that has bounced? This is in my 10g frag tank at 50 par but the light over the tank is a blue only LED light bar.
 

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