2-pin 24V DC Apex powerbar (NOT the 1-link ports)?

[JeffLED]

Does anyone know if there is an available plug that will fit the 2-pin 24V DC Port on the Apex (NOT the 1-link ports)? Or where a post about this might live?
I have seen the wiring harness available with bare wires, but paying $20 for a plug and wire is sacrilege to a hacker!

I have 12V LED's in my stand that turn on when I open the door. They are currently powered off a transformer, but I need to free that spot up for another 120V device, so I figured I could move the LED's over to the 24V DC port by wiring 2 of them up in series. I have assorted plugs for many of my remote control hobbies, and while I can make something with proper pin spacing work, I was wondering if there was something that provides a proper fit.

 

[SuncrestReef]

It's a Molex connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430250200/WM1783-ND/252496

You'll also need the crimp contact: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430300001/WM1837CT-ND/467810

 

[JeffLED]

It's a Molex connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430250200/WM1783-ND/252496

You'll also need the crimp contact: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430300001/WM1837CT-ND/467810

Thank you very much. That was easy!

 

[Entz]

Neptune sells premade ones as well. Price is way higher than diy though.

DC24 to Bare Wire Accessory Cable

You can now use the 24vDC ports that are on the 1Link module and the EnergyBar 832. The 24v DC port will give you the ability to run solenoids, pumps, and fans off a single wire, without having to use any standard outlets for power. The 24v DC ports have give you full outlet style control in a...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

never mind missed what you said. Yes the price is silly for what it is.

 

[JeffLED]

A little update I just finished that’s pretty slick. In order to illuminate my stand, I have an IR led switch on the right cabinet door that turns on a 24v LED light bar in the canopy. That’s all powered from the apex and the molex plug.
I took a second IR switch and wired it in parallel with the first switch. They are both wired in series between the MOLEX connector and a 24V LED light bar.
Now, when either door is opened the light in the stand will turn on for me.

 

[Danoag]

It's a Molex connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430250200/WM1783-ND/252496

You'll also need the crimp contact: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430300001/WM1837CT-ND/467810

What kind of wire would you use with these connections

 

[Danoag]

A little update I just finished that’s pretty slick. In order to illuminate my stand, I have an IR led switch on the right cabinet door that turns on a 24v LED light bar in the canopy. That’s all powered from the apex and the molex plug.
I took a second IR switch and wired it in parallel with the first switch. They are both wired in series between the MOLEX connector and a 24V LED light bar.
Now, when either door is opened the light in the stand will turn on for me.

I was curious what type wire you used with these connectors? Also what light bar did you use?

 

[JeffLED]

I am going to assume you are not the DIY type based on the question and will try to answer accordingly. Feel free to ask a different/follow-up if I assumed incorrectly.

The current that runs through these lights is very small. That means the wire does not need to be very "large" by comparison. I tend to hack up any old wire I have laying around. For instance, I have had numerous LED strips burn out over the years. I would just cut the cord off the old LED strip before throwing it away and use this. An old cell phone charging cable would certainly work, or even just the LED extension cable that you may find on amazon. You might have had a power block or transformer go bad on you at some point. Any of these will work. I tend to like transformer cables because they are generally long (4ft+) and there are two wires running through the single shielded wire. When the wire is cut you see the positive and negative wires, and do not need to run two separate wires.

If you are really desperate, you could use wires from a larger power cord of some kind but these are certainly larger than you need.

What light did I use? I hope I can share external links - if not send me a private message and I can share more. This would be perfect: Light Bar
Please note: The MOLEX provides 24V. The light bar linked above accepts 12V-24V. There is a simple circuit in the light that allows you to provide any voltage input between 12V-24V so this will work with the MOLEX. If you choose a different light, make sure it accepts 24V of power input as most LED light bars and strips accept 12V of power. Also note, if you find 12V Light strips you like, it is very simple to wire the 24V MOLEX to provide 12V to each of two light bars (12V + 12V=24V and there is a simple way to wire this, just let me know).

I also added this inline between the light and the MOLEX connector and highly recommend. When positioned properly, it allows the lights to come on when the stand door is opened. It makes the install look very slick and professional: IR sensor (door switch)

Finally, if this answer did not completely clear it up, I would recommend maybe going with this kit because it will supply you with the extra cable you need to extend the MOLEX: Light bar kit

Hope that cleared it up. I actually have two lights, one on each half, and went with some fancy wiring so that when either door is opened, the stand lights come on.

 

[Danoag]

I am going to assume you are not the DIY type based on the question and will try to answer accordingly. Feel free to ask a different/follow-up if I assumed incorrectly.

The current that runs through these lights is very small. That means the wire does not need to be very "large" by comparison. I tend to hack up any old wire I have laying around. For instance, I have had numerous LED strips burn out over the years. I would just cut the cord off the old LED strip before throwing it away and use this. An old cell phone charging cable would certainly work, or even just the LED extension cable that you may find on amazon. You might have had a power block or transformer go bad on you at some point. Any of these will work. I tend to like transformer cables because they are generally long (4ft+) and there are two wires running through the single shielded wire. When the wire is cut you see the positive and negative wires, and do not need to run two separate wires.

If you are really desperate, you could use wires from a larger power cord of some kind but these are certainly larger than you need.

What light did I use? I hope I can share external links - if not send me a private message and I can share more. This would be perfect: Light Bar
Please note: The MOLEX provides 24V. The light bar linked above accepts 12V-24V. There is a simple circuit in the light that allows you to provide any voltage input between 12V-24V so this will work with the MOLEX. If you choose a different light, make sure it accepts 24V of power input as most LED light bars and strips accept 12V of power. Also note, if you find 12V Light strips you like, it is very simple to wire the 24V MOLEX to provide 12V to each of two light bars (12V + 12V=24V and there is a simple way to wire this, just let me know).

I also added this inline between the light and the MOLEX connector and highly recommend. When positioned properly, it allows the lights to come on when the stand door is opened. It makes the install look very slick and professional: IR sensor (door switch)

Finally, if this answer did not completely clear it up, I would recommend maybe going with this kit because it will supply you with the extra cable you need to extend the MOLEX: Light bar kit

Hope that cleared it up. I actually have two lights, one on each half, and went with some fancy wiring so that when either door is opened, the stand lights come on.

Thank you so much I’ve never got a better answer to any question I’ve ever asked. I’ve done diy projects before many times. I was concerned that the apex need something specific. Thanks again for clearing that up and all the advice. I’ll be able to complete my project.

 

[DaneGer21]

Don’t forget you’ll have to turn on the corresponding outlet/plug so it delivers the 24v since the “A” and “B” plugs are controllable.Once manually on, just hide the tile.

 

[RobB'z Reef]

It's a Molex connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430250200/WM1783-ND/252496

You'll also need the crimp contact: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0430300001/WM1837CT-ND/467810

Thank you for this, ordered some tonight!