Rabidsquirrel
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Probably don't even need one. OP needs to open that control box on the left. I bet the thermostat is one of those grey boxes on top.
1000 gallon tank for a beginner!
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Probably don't even need one. OP needs to open that control box on the left. I bet the thermostat is one of those grey boxes on top.
SlowAndStupid
Active Member
I've never even tried to look on the backside of the boxes before... I'm an idiot.
Not sure what the second box is.
Any idea how to look up maintenance on such a behemoth as this?
It may very well have been sealed in the first place. In leu of a better suggestion, I would let newly mixed SW sit in there for a week or so and then send it out for an ICP. IMO, not worth taking the chance if there is something in the rockwork that causes perpetually high PO4 or NO3 for example. The best scenario would be to send two ICP's, one for the freshly mixed water which you could compare with the week old test.
Rabidsquirrel
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I've never even tried to look on the backside of the boxes before... I'm an idiot.
Not sure what the second box is.
Any idea how to look up maintenance on such a behemoth as this?
It's a pressure switch of some kind, I don't know if there's a booster pump in the chiller. If you open the big black box (unplugged of course) and get a decent picture of the wiring I could probably figure it out, although there has to be more knowledgeable chiller people here than me. I'm just a dumb electrician.
-edit-
Is there a name/model number anywhere? Probably a decent manual online.
SlowAndStupid
Active Member
The other box on the wall is a fuse box.
There are model numbers on various equipment but nothing that I can find for the whole set up. I only get components when I search the model numbers.
There are model numbers on various equipment but nothing that I can find for the whole set up. I only get components when I search the model numbers.
This is a guess without being there but probably the thermostat controls a liquid line solenoid valve. The compressor will get cycled on/off on pressure.
I’ll elaborate on that a bit the thermostat when satisfied will close a liquid line refrigerant solenoid valve. The compressor will pump refrigerant into the condenser until the low pressure side reaches the set point on the pressure control which looks like it is set at 10 psig. This prevents liquid refrigerant and oil migration in the off cycle protecting the compressor. This is a problem for freezers and coolers which is what your system looks like it was originally designed for. When the temp rises the thermostat will open the solenoid valve, when the suction side reaches 20 psig the compressor will cycle back on
I’ll elaborate on that a bit the thermostat when satisfied will close a liquid line refrigerant solenoid valve. The compressor will pump refrigerant into the condenser until the low pressure side reaches the set point on the pressure control which looks like it is set at 10 psig. This prevents liquid refrigerant and oil migration in the off cycle protecting the compressor. This is a problem for freezers and coolers which is what your system looks like it was originally designed for. When the temp rises the thermostat will open the solenoid valve, when the suction side reaches 20 psig the compressor will cycle back on
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I like where you're headed with this, it's going to be an exciting build!
I'm personally not a huge fan of filter floss or filter socks, my suggestion would be to turn the upper portion into an algae turf scrubber or a refugium. You could always add a roller mat if you're noticing too much particulate in the water (leave space in the sump just in case).
I like the garage storage for water, are you able to run a piece of RO tubing to the basement for an auto top off from there? If not, you may want to look at adding some form of RO water top off container to the basement fish room.
I'm personally not a huge fan of filter floss or filter socks, my suggestion would be to turn the upper portion into an algae turf scrubber or a refugium. You could always add a roller mat if you're noticing too much particulate in the water (leave space in the sump just in case).
I like the garage storage for water, are you able to run a piece of RO tubing to the basement for an auto top off from there? If not, you may want to look at adding some form of RO water top off container to the basement fish room.
SlowAndStupid
Active Member
I've ordered two 105 gallon vertical storage tanks for the garage and a 35 gallon one for the fish room which will be for an ATO reservoir.
The majority of the bottom sump is going to be for a very large refugium. I don't think there's enough room in the top one that a refugium there would make much of a dent in the tank. I've tried to design the top sump large enough to put in a roller mat if needed. I would use filter floss or socks first to see how much particulate there was. The only two mats I've found that are large enough to filter a tank of this size so far are the MRC Infiniti and C. A. D. S. Cloth 600.
The majority of the bottom sump is going to be for a very large refugium. I don't think there's enough room in the top one that a refugium there would make much of a dent in the tank. I've tried to design the top sump large enough to put in a roller mat if needed. I would use filter floss or socks first to see how much particulate there was. The only two mats I've found that are large enough to filter a tank of this size so far are the MRC Infiniti and C. A. D. S. Cloth 600.
SlowAndStupid
Active Member
Two 105 gallon storage tanks along with the smaller 35 gallon tank for the fish room Ato reservoir have arrived. And the garage corner has now been cleaned out where the mixing station will go.
SlowAndStupid
Active Member
Stands for the storage tanks are complete as well as a stand for quarantine tanks and storage. I added some new lighting in place of an old fluorescent light that wasn't performing well. Now the rest of the garage appears dim in comparison.
On the wall below the storage tanks is actually plumbed for water which I plan to hook the RO/DI to. Beside it is what I assume is plumbing for a drain though it's the weirdest install of a drain with it coming out at this weird angle. Am I missing something here? Is there anything else this could be other than a drain line?
On the wall below the storage tanks is actually plumbed for water which I plan to hook the RO/DI to. Beside it is what I assume is plumbing for a drain though it's the weirdest install of a drain with it coming out at this weird angle. Am I missing something here? Is there anything else this could be other than a drain line?
twentyleagues
2500 Club Member
Looks good!Stands for the storage tanks are complete as well as a stand for quarantine tanks and storage. I added some new lighting in place of an old fluorescent light that wasn't performing well. Now the rest of the garage appears dim in comparison.
On the wall below the storage tanks is actually plumbed for water which I plan to hook the RO/DI to. Beside it is what I assume is plumbing for a drain though it's the weirdest install of a drain with it coming out at this weird angle. Am I missing something here? Is there anything else this could be other than a drain line?
Maybe that was set up for a refrigerator? IDK its weird for sure. Do you know where that "drain" goes?
SlowAndStupid
Active Member
No idea where it goes. I emptied some water into it and it disappears though it drains a little slower than I was expecting.
twentyleagues
2500 Club Member
It looks like 1/2"-3/4" cpvc that would not drain fast which along with the feed setup is why I was thinking fridge, It looks like a condensate drain. I dont think it will handle the wastewater from your rodi. I dont know if that is what you intended.
It looks like that wall is attached to the house I see the hvac vent at the top of the wall. I am guessing the pipes and vent go to the basement through the wall? Do you have access to the pipes in the basement? like a drop ceiling or false walls to cover the pipes that can be removed?
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SlowAndStupid
Active Member
It's 3/4 cpvc and I was planning on using it for my rodi drain. This will be my first time using rodi but I'm surprised to hear you don't think it will be able to handle the drainage. As I was testing it, it was able to handle a decent rate of me feeding it, enough that I thought it would still be acceptable.
The garage sits in a position where this end is separate from the house itself. There is no basement under this portion and no house on the other side of the wall. I assume it either goes down into the slab or snakes through the wall somewhere but I don't have access to see without ripping things out.
After a lot of researching I think I'm leaning towards Orphek Amazonas 960's. I ran 2 additional 20 amp services with the outlets up high on the ceiling in anticipation for that.
twentyleagues
2500 Club Member
It may be, under pressure it will handle more. I was worried about where it went to more. Depending on what rodi unit you get your rejection rate could be anywhere from 1:4-1:2. Mine is about 1:2 and the stream of rejected water is pretty strong.
SlowAndStupid
Active Member
Big mile stone completed today. After constructing and allowing a good 2-week cure while on vacation my two DIY plywood sumps were completed and leak tested. I used almost all of the 1.5 gallon of white pond armor I purchased. No leaks noted from around the bulkheads once everything was fitted and sat filled for 24 hours. They will be sitting on my 8020 stands I ordered from tnutz.com and put together. I have likely over-engineered everything, but I prefer to over-support rather than under.
My biggest worry once getting the big sump made was getting it into position. I wanted to maximize the space I had but now I had to squeeze this heavy and bulky monstrosity downstairs into the basement and into my small, awkward space that is my fish room. I am happy to say that with the help of my wife and father-in-law and the laws of physics with a well-placed pulley system we were able to move and lower it into its final position!
I can now start working on plumbing everything up. Meanwhile, two 50-gallon barrels of DIY rock have been curing in freshwater for a couple of months to drop their pH after making them. I imagine they should be about ready to go in the tank as well.
My biggest worry once getting the big sump made was getting it into position. I wanted to maximize the space I had but now I had to squeeze this heavy and bulky monstrosity downstairs into the basement and into my small, awkward space that is my fish room. I am happy to say that with the help of my wife and father-in-law and the laws of physics with a well-placed pulley system we were able to move and lower it into its final position!
I can now start working on plumbing everything up. Meanwhile, two 50-gallon barrels of DIY rock have been curing in freshwater for a couple of months to drop their pH after making them. I imagine they should be about ready to go in the tank as well.
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