★ 110 Gallon (In-Wall Office Dream SPS Reef Tank) ★ PROJECT GENESIS [Total Automation, DIY & More ]★

[Rakie]

It's chalk powder, exactly like coral snow. You get a pound of it for like $8 ($300 canadian) and mix with RODI. Dose the whole tank, and it kills vermatids.

 

[WallyB]

Is this the Chalk Powder you mean? (Calcium Carbonate)

https://www.amazon.ca/Calcium-Carbo...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SKJ3KVR826R1FYZW8A0J

Or this?

https://www.amazon.ca/LD-Carlson-61...6R1FYZW8A0J&psc=1&refRID=SKJ3KVR826R1FYZW8A0J


I don't think so.


But that is VERY INTERESTING.
I run out of Coral Snow last week and Virmatid shows up.

From seeing the Coraline Encrusted tubes, there have been others, but maybe the Coral Snow was killing them off.

So when I stopped, one woke up.

 

[Rakie]

DIY Coral Snow <--- LINK

There's the thread on it!

 

[Rakie]

Here's the specific one I used <--- LINK

Just make sure it's food grade and as pure as possible

 

[WallyB]

New CaribSea Arch (INSTALLED) FTS Photo & Video View

My Goal today WAS NOT to install the Arch, but instead just move the (Yellow Tubinaria Cup Coral) UP and to RIGHT.

Turbinaria WAS FUSED/Grown onto the ROCK, but while lightly tugging it, I found the Whole Top Rock was Loosely Laid on Top of Island.

So I just Tilted the Rock ON ONE SIDE and put Support underneath.

The Arch Fit in Better (nice GAP under Tubinaria compared to Last Try), and layout came out with more Horizontal Frag Space on the ARch.

FLOW is also better with the CP40 Gyre Pump flowing (unobstructed) between the NEW GAP.

BEFORE New ARCH

WITH ARCH

Amazingly even with the ARCH across the GAP, it doesn't take away any critical light on any Corals except the one Mystic Monti (which is growing to fast anyway)

I also moved that EYESORE Stag (disproportionate sized) off to the left side and INSTANTLY all the Small Top Frag look bigger.

The Arch is Lightly Puttied in Place for Easy Removal if UGLY Stage Rock Aging Happens like last time.
I also won't be permanently mounting any Frags to New Arch till it has completed it Ugly aging. (Hoping that doesn't happen again, but it probably will)

Photo doesn't show the Shape (3 Dimensionally) of the NEW Arch Piece...So this Panoramic View Video shows the NEW TANK LOOK "Better"

 

[Rakie]

I like it!

Doesn't detract or look unnatural if that makes sense.

 

[WallyB]

CO2 Scrubber (Trial on SPS TANK) to Raise PH

This was @Rakie 's Idea, and I had things all Handy from a Previous Experiment on Frag Tank.

I actually was thinking of restarting my OLD DIY KALK Reactor/Stirrer, but I am not ready quite yet.

Must learn Kalk Dosing (in parallel with ESV Two Part), and Kalk can be for Future once I have more ALK/CALC Consumption.

The Setup is:

-> Calibrated my PH Probe day ago (thus the small increase on Graph).

-> Fresh Air Line from Outside goes into "Two Little Fishes" PhosBan Reactor
-> Goes thru CDX (Soda Lime) from Bottom to and OUT TOP
-> Scrubbed Air feed my Skimmer
-> No Air Dryer since instructions say CDX (Soda Lime, Color Changing) Instructions say Media works best with a little Humididy.

 

[WallyB]

CO2-Scrubber Update (Slow Steady Rise)

Nothing Drastic (which is good).

From my Past Experiment it will continue to rise (Peak/Low) over next few days.

 

[WallyB]

CO2 Scrubber ( Soda Lime Media ) OPTIMIZATION and PH Peak/Low Smoothing

Still a bit too early for any activated MODs to my CO2 Scrubber ( I need to watch the Cycle for a few day)

I ordered a couple of cheap Solenoid Valve on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00YPA6LPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not the 1/4" RO type but larger 1/2" that fits my FreshAir Line hose Diameter (and also good for less AirFlow Restriction)

The color Changing Media is deceptive. No way a 3/4 of a 750ml Jar of CDX expired in one day.
Best to watch when PH drops for Media Replacement.

Yet, cycling the Scrubber ON/OFF will extend the media life.

 

[Janci]

HI Wally
did you modify the connections on the TLF reactor to fit your air hose?
If I am not mistaken, one of the connections on the original reactor is rather small and side ways on the reactor.
Yours seem to be on top.

 

[WallyB]

HI Wally
did you modify the connections on the TLF reactor to fit your air hose?
If I am not mistaken, one of the connections on the original reactor is rather small and side ways on the reactor.
Yours seem to be on top.

I had things figured out for Connecting Hoses. Basically a couple of Short Cascading (but snug fit) tubes.

Here is the TLF coupling.

My objective was to Keep all the Hoses at Maxiumum Diameter up to the Skimmer Input Tube (minimal air resistance)

NOTE: My Fresh Air PVC Hose to Outside is 15 Feet Long so it's 1" (thus no air Resistance).

BUT THIS Valve WON'T WORK (after Testing)

I connected POWER and I could hear/feel the Solenoid Clicking.

But Trying to Blow thru it (while OPEN) didn't work.

I opened it and found out the valve works just like Lawn Sprinkler Valve.
Takes Pressure to lift the Valve cover. I had a feeling from Specs it wouldn't work since SPEC Rating Wasn't for 0 PSI (operation).

So this won't work (#1) skimmer is Negative Air Pressure.

NO WORRIES, I ordered a BALL VALVE Type one that will WORK 100% with Air.
($COST is close when you consider two Solenoids types.....I will look into other Valves)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HG6FQN7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And it will only take One Valve since it's a 3 Way.

Also to operate the Solenoid types, one would have to be powered up all the Time (wasting Energy)

There are these SOLENOID Valves and key is (NORMALLY OPEN). They are for AIR/GAS and operate at Zero-Pressure (I bet mechanism is different).
https://www.amazon.ca/Normally-Elec...=8-23&keywords=Electronic+Valve+normally+open
But I don't like the narrow Diameter. And again it would take two, with one always ENERGIZED.

BALL VALVE with Motor OPEN/CLOSE will be best. (Drawback is they run at 24 Volts....But I dug thru my box of junk AC/DC Adapters, and I have one 24 volt type)

 

[WallyB]

HI Wally
did you modify the connections on the TLF reactor to fit your air hose?
If I am not mistaken, one of the connections on the original reactor is rather small and side ways on the reactor.
Yours seem to be on top.

Ooops. I read your post a bit slower.

No I didn't modify my TLF reactor. It might be old Version of TLF reactor. I have two and both are the same.
Both the IN and OUT on the Reactor are the same size (One in TOP-Cap-Middle IN, and one on TOP-CAP-side OUT) and both connect to the Rubbery L-Coupler.

Just like this one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Two-Little-Fi...2&keywords=two+little+fishies+phosban+reactor

There is another version. Which you might be referring to.
https://www.amazon.ca/Two-Little-Fi...G4J18J8K563&psc=1&refRID=HZTJNABCDG4J18J8K563

At those prices....This one is best value
https://www.amazon.com/AQUATOP-MR-2...8-1&keywords=Aquatop+MR-20+Multimedia+Reactor

You can use the pump that come with it for something else.

 

[Janci]

Ooops. I read your post a bit slower.

No I didn't modify my TLF reactor. It might be old Version of TLF reactor. I have two and both are the same.
Both the IN and OUT on the Reactor are the same size (One in TOP-Cap-Middle IN, and one on TOP-CAP-side OUT) and both connect to the Rubbery L-Coupler.

Just like this one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Two-Little-Fi...2&keywords=two+little+fishies+phosban+reactor

There is another version. Which you might be referring to.
https://www.amazon.ca/Two-Little-Fi...G4J18J8K563&psc=1&refRID=HZTJNABCDG4J18J8K563

At those prices....This one is best value
https://www.amazon.com/AQUATOP-MR-2...8-1&keywords=Aquatop+MR-20+Multimedia+Reactor

You can use the pump that come with it for something else.

Correct, I had not see that there is a big and small version for the TLF reactors.
I will have the bigger size.
Thank you for the info.

 

[WallyB]

Correct, I had not see that there is a big and small version for the TLF reactors.
I will have the bigger size.
Thank you for the info.

I think your Bigger one will be Better. Less Changing of Media.

In my case, I can run two in Series (since I have two), and I hear from BRStv Video, running two is another way to extend media (since you can flip them around, when changing Media...Only changing one)

 

[WallyB]

(CO2 Scrubber) NEXT VALVE (0 PSI) ** STILL NO GOOD **

So my next Amazon Order Valve Type came in...

I didn't expect it to be Ideal with the Narrow Diameter.

But when I Enegized the Solenoid, (to OPEN) I could barely push any air thru it using my Lung Capacity.
(that doesn't appear to be the 0 MPa as per spec, or it's the narrow opening, or SIMPLY Water Valves don't work for AIR Valves)

It won't work since too much air-resistance.

Hoping the BALL VALVE will work when it comes.

 

[WallyB]

CO2 Scrubber (Not Working) I have hints on why NOT.

No harm done, but the CO2 scrubber isn't raising PH (as much) as my Last Frag Tank Test (Last Year).

IT DID GO UP BRIEFLY but then things Fell Flat.

I have a few theories, but none are scientifically proven:

-> My CDX Soda Lime quickly Turned Purple (so it exhausted) LEARNED that Soda Lime has a Limited Shelf Life.
----------> Read that when it Turns Purple it is truly Expired (and if exposed to Air will go White again, but that is a False Indication)

-> Learn my Two Little Fishes Reactor has O-Ring Installed Wrong (It was leaking) NO BIG DEAL but good to know

-> Soda Lime needs to draw in MOIST AIR since if too dry it will produce CO Gas (Carbon Monoxide) I SHOULD HAVE PUT a Teaspoon of water at the Base of my Reactor.

-> Oxygen is added by CO2 Scrubber (but CO2 is sill added to Tank/Sump Surface Gas Exchange, via bubbling, and surface agitation)

-> Maybe my Fresh Air Line is almost as Good as The Scrubber so THIS CO2 Scrubber isn't ideal in my CASE.

I will get a Fresh Can of Soda Lime and try again..

If thing don't work out, it appears KALK my be my only option to get PH over 8.1

 

[Janci]

He Wally
Did you do an air stone test for the tank/sump to see what that does to the pH?
As you mention, your direct-outside-air line can be already the ideal situation for your system.

 

[WallyB]

He Wally
Did you do an air stone test for the tank/sump to see what that does to the pH?
As you mention, your direct-outside-air line can be already the ideal situation for your system.

Janci,

What do you mean by Air Stone Test?

I'm all EARS for testing ideas, since I really would like to increase PH using CO2 Scrubber (vs Kalk).

Right now my test has been injecting (Fresh Air) vs (C02 Scrubber -> Fresh Air) using the Skimmer Input and Skimmer doing the bubbling.
Yet the skimmer kind of swirls the bubbles (recycles them), so although it airates the Water, it's not as efficient.

I do have a Fusion 700 Pump that I used to use for ATS. It's a massive Air Pusher.
But that model and all models of Bladder type pumps don't have a way to hook up (an INPUT) to take in (Fresh Air).
Perhaps taking it apart might discover a way.

If I can inject the (Fresh Air) or (Co2 Scrubbed Air) more directly into the sump water flow stream. It might work better.

HERE IS PROOF.

That last test I did (Oct 2017) with the CO2 Scrubber was on a Smaller Frag Tank (also using a Skimmer)
I compared it to Fresh AIR on both DT Tanks.

As shown below. My Frag Tank went from 7.66 to 7.92 (which is 0.26) PH increase in about 8 HRS

But what That test showed TWO TANKS (on Fresh Air) and the FRAG TANK ( on CO2 Scrubber) both PEAKED at around 7.9

It appears CO2 scrubbing and Fresh Air just has a Limit on PH Increase.


I just found this VIDEO that appears to be the SAME TEST


As soon as I find my headphones, I'll watch it.

Maybe no point in wasting money on Soda Lime, Valves, etc.

Maybe time to learn KALK (ratios) with my ESV Two Part. (my goal for the Long run)

 

[WallyB]

I will still TRY one *NEW/FRESH * JAR of CDX (Soda Lime). BEFORE I GIVE UP.

Now that I look at my history, that Jar is quite old.

HERE IS WHAT THAT OLD Jar has done so far for PH

Not much, but it has improved PH a bit. Running a few weeks might show Coral Growth Improvement.

 

[Janci]

I was only referring to the test that is mentioned in the pH article of Randy:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/

Here it states:
The first step in solving a low pH problem is to determine why it exists in the first place. Some possibilities include:

1. A calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactor (CaCO3/CO2 reactor) is in use on the aquarium.
2. The aquarium has low alkalinity.
3. The aquarium has more CO2 in it than the surrounding air due to inadequate aeration. Don't be fooled into thinking that an aquarium must have adequate aeration because its water is very turbulent. Equilibrating carbon dioxide is MUCH harder than simply providing adequate oxygen. There would be NO change in the pH between day and night if equilibration of carbon dioxide were perfect. Since most aquaria have lower pH during the night, they also are demonstrating less than complete aeration.
4. The aquarium has excess CO2 in it because the air in the home that it is being equilibrated with contains excess CO2.
5. The aquarium is still cycling, and has excess acid being produced from the nitrogen cycle and degradation of organics to CO2.

The Aeration Test
Some of the possibilities listed above require some effort to diagnose. Problems 3 and 4 are quite common, and here is a way to distinguish them. Remove a cup of tank water and measure the pH. Then aerate it for an hour with an airstone using outside air. The pH should rise if the pH is unusually low for the measured alkalinity, as in Figure 3 (if it does not rise, most likely one of the measurements (pH or alkalinity) is in error). Then repeat the same experiment on a new cup of water using inside air. If the pH rises there too, then the aquarium pH will rise with more aeration because it is only the aquarium that contains excess carbon dioxide. If the pH does not rise inside (or rises very little), then the inside air contains excess CO2, and more aeration with that same air will not solve the low pH problem (although aeration with fresher air should).