Yet another Dino ID / Battle

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The source is clear to me: I got them from the shop where I bought everything.
They have Dinos and I got them with my very first corals.
 

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The source is clear to me: I got them from the shop where I bought everything.
They have Dinos and I got them with my very first corals.
They’re such a pain to get rid of. I started water changes at the end of day 6. And if I saw a bubble or a small patch starting, I’d quickly siphon it out.

I tried to get rid of them with just water changes. But I went through 200 gallons of mix in 2 weeks with no results. They’d come right back.

I’ve noticed that white light in general, really feeds nuisance algae and dinos. I only run that spectrum for 3 hours.
 
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Humm... My LEDs are set to 100% Blue and White.;Facepalm 12hrs a day + moon light

Light_Cycle.png
 
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Are you referring to a particular thread? Because that link is missing.
I detailed the LED in the Thread start: I have two Red Sea ReefLed 90s attached to the tank.
 

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Are you referring to a particular thread? Because that link is missing.
I detailed the LED in the Thread start: I have two Red Sea ReefLed 90s attached to the tank.
I was thinking of posting an entirely new thread in lighting, asking how others run their Red Sea reefs (how many hours, ramping, etc.) or you could search before you post, there might be an existing thread you could browse through.
 
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More pictures of the nasty stuff: One can clearly see the bubbles here:
IMG_7206.JPG


Proof that Snails eat them off the glass: :) (Thought it looks cool, so i took a picture of that)
Gotta talk to them about the coverage though...
IMG_7207.JPG
 

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@taricha does the video help a bit to identify them as ostreopsis?
actually, what I could see of the cell movement, it looked like it wasn't ostreopsis.
pics+video+pattern on the sandbed makes me think prorocentrum.

Also, I think the totally even coverage on the glass and the snail bite marks are from snail eating diatoms.
 
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Thanks @taricha! You are helping me a lot!
Okay, but UV-Treatment is still supposed to help in that battle?
I just spoke to the shop stuff and I can get a Osaga UV Sterilizer with 36W this afternoon.
Its rated for up to 36.000l/h as its main purpose is for ponds. Its weird, all the brands you guys use are just barely available here in Europe.
No Pentair, no Jebao. We can get Theiling (as high end 400 bucks solution) or we get the cheaper ones from asia, like Osaga.
 
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Good Morning Guys!
I got a UV-C Light yesterday and hooked it up to my tank:
Osaga 36W Pond Sterilizer, connected to an 1000l/h Eheim Pump.
Not even 24 hrs later: The look is totally different.
Almost all Rocks are nice and clean :) 3/4 of my substrate is white.
The Water is stunning clear (using activated charcoal too) and the sun is shining out of my ***.
;)
I dont take it as a win, but the question whether those algae are affected by UV light: I am pretty sure they are :cool:
Going to post a few pics of the tank later.
Soooo happy at the moment :)

Thanks for all your help so far!!!!
 
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Hi there!
Here are the promised pictures.
IMG_20200326_160240.jpg IMG_20200326_160254.jpg
This is how things are looking currently. Apart from some strings here and there the algae is only prominent between the first and second left "pillars".
I also started dosing phosphate today: 3.5 ml of sangokai nutri-p. ( 1 ml per liter )
I`ll performe a po4 measurement at around 19:00 localtime and perform it everyday at the same time until 0,03 mg/l is kind of stable.
Wondering if you guys agree with that target value?

Local stores recommended:
- 1st 0,01-0,04 mg/l
- 2nd 0,02-0,04 mg/l

Kind regards and thanks for your ongoing support!

IMG_20200326_160240.jpg IMG_20200326_160254.jpg
 
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taricha

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Most people while battling dinos dose to PO4 more in the 0.10 range. But every tank is different.
Those store recommendations are more for keeping a typical low PO4 system.
 

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