Will this bottom corner chip make my tank explode?

sknight

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Hi All, I'm new to large tanks and am hoping some more experienced folks can provide guidance on the chip on this tank.

I acquired it second hand and it got chipped during transport, however it is customer made and comes with a cabinet built for it, so I can just replace it and am wondering if it is fixable?

The chip is on the bottom corner of the sump section, which is on the rear if the tank. The tank is in total 4.5ft wide by 2.3ft deep by 1.8ft tall, with the rear sump section being 0.8ft deep.

As you can see from the photos I started packing it with silicon before stopping to think more carefully about how I should apprac h this, or if I am being completely insane thinking I can repair it.

I have read on some other threads about epoxy, which I could do if anyone thinks it would work.

I hold no one liable other than myself for any future actions I may take based on advice I receive from others in regards to repairing the tank.

16921051013393639954772061419629.jpg 1692105149253656639278492356112.jpg 16921051665471223577148563617874.jpg 16921052025513823444358337197257.jpg 16921052488058576421673903941791.jpg
 

Quietman

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The strength of a glass aquarium comes from a solid one piece silicone seal between two panes of glass. The water tightness and longevity in protecting the structural bead is accomplished by the interior seal (also usually laid at the same time) . The structural bead is laid at one time to ensure the bead dries and cures at the same time all along the length preventing weak spots. Silicon doesn't bond well to a bead that's been laid and develop a skin from drying. So for permanently repairing damage to the structural silicone you have to replace the entire bead which usually means removing the pane, cleaning off old and laying new. You'd replace any damaged glass then. It's your call if that's worth the trouble and expense.

Unfortunately, that aquarium looks like it took a solid jolt which may have damaged the structural seal along the glass at more than just the corner. I can't tell but also looks like two panes were damaged.

In my opinion, it's a write off unless you want to learn or pay someone for a correct repair (which could be more than a new I'm afraid).
 
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vetteguy53081

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Hi All, I'm new to large tanks and am hoping some more experienced folks can provide guidance on the chip on this tank.

I acquired it second hand and it got chipped during transport, however it is customer made and comes with a cabinet built for it, so I can just replace it and am wondering if it is fixable?

The chip is on the bottom corner of the sump section, which is on the rear if the tank. The tank is in total 4.5ft wide by 2.3ft deep by 1.8ft tall, with the rear sump section being 0.8ft deep.

As you can see from the photos I started packing it with silicon before stopping to think more carefully about how I should apprac h this, or if I am being completely insane thinking I can repair it.

I have read on some other threads about epoxy, which I could do if anyone thinks it would work.

I hold no one liable other than myself for any future actions I may take based on advice I receive from others in regards to repairing the tank.

16921051013393639954772061419629.jpg 1692105149253656639278492356112.jpg 16921051665471223577148563617874.jpg 16921052025513823444358337197257.jpg 16921052488058576421673903941791.jpg
There is no way I would trust this tank other than for terrarium use. It is both too far in and capable of spreading/splitting under water pressure.
 
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EricGRIT09

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Sometimes I'll enter a topic like this, look at the picture and say "ehhh... I *might* use that and keep a really close eye on it". Even then, I'd usually say not to use it as I'd personally always worry about it.

In this case, absolutely would not trust that glass and silicone bond. No way.
 
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sknight

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Thanks everyone for your responses, this is basically what I expected I would hear. I suppose I will start with some research on the difficulties of learning to replace the entire back panel myself. My next question in relation to that would be does the replacement glass need to match the thickness of the broken glass? I ask as the broken piece is a little thicker than the rest of the tank and it will be easier to find replacement glass that matches the rest of the tank as opposed to the broken piece.
 
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sknight

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IMO Don’t do it. Risk completely outweighs the reward in this scenario. I don’t say it lightly either. Had a very similar chip on an IM tank and it pained me to no end having to accept it as a loss.
It’s on my build thread if you’d like to look.
I will check it out, thankyou
 
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sknight

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Ye
The strength of a glass aquarium comes from a solid one piece silicone seal between two panes of glass. The water tightness and longevity in protecting the structural bead is accomplished by the interior seal (also usually laid at the same time) . The structural bead is laid at one time to ensure the bead dries and cures at the same time all along the length preventing weak spots. Silicon doesn't bond well to a bead that's been laid and develop a skin from drying. So for permanently repairing damage to the structural silicone you have to replace the entire bead which usually means removing the pane, cleaning off old and laying new. You'd replace any damaged glass then. It's your call if that's worth the trouble and expense.

Unfortunately, that aquarium looks like it took a solid jolt which may have damaged the structural seal along the glass at more than just the corner. I can't tell but also looks like two panes were damaged.

In my opinion, it's a write off unless you want to learn or pay someone for a correct repair (which could be more than a new I'm afraid).
yes both panes were damaged, the side pain only with a very shallow chip, but the rear pane is the one that has chipped all the way in to the silicon.

I appreciate the time taken to give me a good explanation on where the structural integrity comes from, this will stop me taking any risks and has me thinking of some silicon damage on the dividing piece between the sump and the tank also, as I may have tried just using the actual tank and keeping the sump empty otherwise, but I can see I take the same risk.
 
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Dom

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Agreed, don't take the chance. But I would break down the tank and keep the undamaged glass for future repairs.
 
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Troylee

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Ye

yes both panes were damaged, the side pain only with a very shallow chip, but the rear pane is the one that has chipped all the way in to the silicon.

I appreciate the time taken to give me a good explanation on where the structural integrity comes from, this will stop me taking any risks and has me thinking of some silicon damage on the dividing piece between the sump and the tank also, as I may have tried just using the actual tank and keeping the sump empty otherwise, but I can see I take the same risk.
So this chip is in a sump compartment? It’s an all in one tank? I mean it’s bad and I wouldn’t use it but if it’s in a sump compartment then you might have some options of a unsightly repair job that wouldn’t matter granted it’s not seen like a display tank.
 
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Gtinnel

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Agreed, don't take the chance. But I would break down the tank and keep the undamaged glass for future repairs.
Unless it’s tempered in which case I probably wouldn’t keep it unless the replacement was the exact same size.
If not tempered then it could also be cut up for a diy sump.
 
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sknight

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Yeah all in one tank with sump compartment at rear, chip is in bottom corner of sump compartment. Tank is upside down on the floor at the moment. The Blue section is the Non Sump section of the tank.
 

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sknight

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So this chip is in a sump compartment? It’s an all in one tank? I mean it’s bad and I wouldn’t use it but if it’s in a sump compartment then you might have some options of a unsightly repair job that wouldn’t matter granted it’s not seen like a display tank.
That's my plan if possible, it comes in a fully enclosed cabinet except the front, and the divider between the tank and the sump is tinted, so the sump will never be seen. I was also wondering if I could just put water in the display section of the tank and put a sump in the cabinet below or setup without a sump. But I've now realised I damaged the structural silicon bead when cleaning up old silicon, so I would now need to remove that panel and re do the structural bead before even considering that as an option. But I'm happy to take on this take as a learning journey whether it be by repairing it, or dismantling it... just hoping to avoid destroying my house in the process
 
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Troylee

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That's my plan if possible, it comes in a fully enclosed cabinet except the front, and the divider between the tank and the sump is tinted, so the sump will never be seen. I was also wondering if I could just put water in the display section of the tank and put a sump in the cabinet below or setup without a sump. But I've now realised I damaged the structural silicon bead when cleaning up old silicon, so I would now need to remove that panel and re do the structural bead before even considering that as an option. But I'm happy to take on this take as a learning journey whether it be by repairing it, or dismantling it... just hoping to avoid destroying my house in the process
I mean you could have a new piece of glass cut at 4”x12” or what ever that inside, side panel is and just silicone it in like a inch away “partition wall” and just leave that corner dry.. it would take all stress away from that corner and be dry so it wouldn’t leak… I would load that current end panel up with silicone “as a Saftey measure if your new wall/baffle ever leaked” and silicone a new piece of glass in “false wall” and run it.. you could even just laminate that inside wall but it would still have some pressure against it that route with water against it.. making a false wall eliminates the stress off that entire end.
 
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jpnegrete14

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These things are hard to give advice on because everyone's patience, ability, and resources for DIY are different. I have built a tank stand that I 1000% trusted because I'm comfortable working with wood but personally I'm not comfortable enough with glass and silicone to trust my work to hold 100gal of saltwater in my house.

Anything is possible and obviously @Troylee knows what he's talking about and is a great resource but the real question is how much time, effort, resources are you willing to invest with a salvage job? Whatever you decide best of luck!
 
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sknight

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I mean you could have a new piece of glass cut at 4”x12” or what ever that inside, side panel is and just silicone it in like a inch away “partition wall” and just leave that corner dry.. it would take all stress away from that corner and be dry so it wouldn’t leak… I would load that current end panel up with silicone “as a Saftey measure if your new wall/baffle ever leaked” and silicone a new piece of glass in “false wall” and run it.. you could even just laminate that inside wall but it would still have some pressure against it that route with water against it.. making a false wall eliminates the stress off that entire end.
I'll take some photos and post in reply tomorrow to just confirm where you mean, but I'm pretty sure I understand you. I imagine it to not be as easy as it sounds in practice and I am a complete amature when it comes to glass work, but I do have the option of setting it up outside and have smaller bits of glass around I could practise on first
 
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