Who came up with 76-78 temps?

Thunderrap

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Heaters are needed for stable temperatures during the winter. Mine almost never come on during the summer. I don't think too many people living in typical home sizes in the southern USA can afford to run their AC at 69-72 F. I don't think my AC system could even do that living in Houston and if it could I am sure the electric bill would have been well over $1000/month.
I live in Atlanta, GA and we keep our house at a constant 69F year round, 4500sqft home and during the summer our electric bill doesn’t get higher than $300/month.
 

teaktoc

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According to this article our world reefs operate at a wider range then preached dogma. Perhaps lower temps should be a thing.

Spoke with an individual who’s been in the industry several decades and keeps his reef tanks closer to 70 than 78. Mentioned that in the hottest reefs the temp is considerably cooler at depths most fish and coral found. Outside of shallows. The temp doesn’t get near 76. More oxygen. Plus he mentioned less chance of finding pathogens such as Ich. He’s dove reefs around the world and speaking first hand.

Removing the heater from the equation might work in most homes where room temp 69 to 72 such as mine.

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Hmmm... you are suggesting evidence-based reason over marketing? There are numerous anecdotes and growers of SPS in particular on this forumn referencing more rapid growth with 26.7-27 temperatures. I would love to see a study with markers of growth in across a range of temperature with all other parameters equal.
 

Fred A.

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Not according to the article I posted. It mentions 73-84 and I'm guessing that's surface temperature which anyone who has dove past ten feet know it gets colder lower we go.
I don't know the right temps for aquariums. But, I've been diving reefs for 30 years. 95% of corals/fish are found shallower than 100 ft. Temps at the surface are rarely different than at 100 ft. other than thermoclines. But, depending on the time of year, reef temps can vary between low/mid 70s to mid/high 80s. Quite the range.
 

Ef4life

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my house is under major reconstruction, with no hvac currently in operation, so my reef tanks are hitting between 72-83 fairly regularly with no issues and not skipping a beat. I keep them at 78 normally ‍♂️
 

ISpeakForTheSeas

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And a lot of fry tend to travel around near the surface?
Yeah, a lot of species with larval positive phototaxis would have fry near the surface.
My best guess on an actual reef there’s likely a gradual drop at night daily. Regardless of exact temperature. Evenings are cooler and surrounding air likely has an impact on ocean waters plus the daily rain in the tropics should have an affect. Might not. I’m just thinking based on my experiences here in south Florida which is a far cry from the equator yet south of Fort Lauderdale it is the sub tropics and we do have the third largest reef in the world. Trying to be logical although might be way off too.
Yeah, diurnal temperature drops are expected:
Slightly diurnally and seasonally, yes:
"The diurnal temperature variations are about 0.3°C in theopen oceans and 2 to 3°C in shallow waters."
Source: https://www.academia.edu/36838790/Chemical_Oceanography
From what I've seen, for most tropical reef organisms, as long as the temp doesn't swing too far too fast, and as long as the temp is kept within ~75-82F (lower than 74ish can start causing problems, higher than 83 and many corals will start to bleach - so allowing for temp variation due to imperfect temp controllers in our tanks, I would set 75F as the min and 82F as the max), the temp doesn't seem to matter much. To give an idea, a 2C change (from 25C to 27C, for example) is about a 3.5F change (77 to 80.6, with the 25C to 27C example), so allowing a 3F to 4F temp change diurnally should be fine.
 

ISpeakForTheSeas

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One would think wild more resilient to change since that's what they evolved in. Doubt natural reefs are ever as stable as we keep our tanks. Having said that, considering fragging is relatively new in the evolution of corals that I doubt they've lost any ability to adapt from which the original colonies grew.
Yeah, I don't think they've lost the ability to adapt, I would think they just need time to adapt - in the wild, they're adapted to the constantly fluctuating parameters (temperature, light, nutrients, etc.), but the changes are usually relatively small and gradual, so they have time to adapt as they change; in our aquariums, the changes tend to be very rapid and drastic (for examples, a heater malfunctioning and staying off or on could swing the temperature by a very large amount in just a few hours, or switching out a light could change the spectrum and PAR received in an instant permanently).

I would expect captive corals to be as or nearly as resilient as wild corals if given the same small changes and time to adjust.
 

TheGrimReeferTx

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my house is under major reconstruction, with no hvac currently in operation, so my reef tanks are hitting between 72-83 fairly regularly with no issues and not skipping a beat. I keep them at 78 normally ‍♂️
How long have you been running it this way?
 

PotatoPig

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That's my point yet can't find one reference mentioning anything other than 76-78. No science based support for 76-78.
My guess: 76-78 is about in the middle of the range the article at the beginning cites. Not stressing anything by being too hot or too cold, a little wriggle room for sensor error, and as a lot of folks keep fish and corals from multiple regions with slightly different temperatures it should fall within the envelope many of these creatures are adapted to.
 

shadyraro

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Visiting the Great Barrier reef on my bucket list. Should have gone 20 years ago however. Same with Hawaii.
I snorkelled in the GBR a few years ago and it was amazing, just seeing all the different corals ranging from a couple metres below the water to 10+ metres below blew my mind!
 
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GARRIGA

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I think its an interesting thought - and yes - I agree about 'drops' in the natural reef
I equate stability to gradual change. Obviously going from 80 to 73 in 15 minutes different than 12hours. Daily atmospheric cycles have the highest temps just before sundown and lowest temp before sunrise. Stands to reason ocean waters would see similar cycles with shallows being the most affected in not just temperatures but also salinity swings. Perhaps focusing on shallow water species best suited to less focus on such a narrow near 78 home range. Clams know to be out of water at low tide therefore imagine the temperature variations those endure daily.
 

SteveMM62Reef

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I’ve been diving in the Keys and Hawaii, Snorkeling in the Bahamas, and I can tell you the temperatures are constantly changing minute by minute.
 

Vested

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Were that the case tanks wouldn't need heaters. Seems many need to raise temps with the advent of LED and those running external pumps contribute less heat as well. Could just be that future builds might lean colder if ahead of build it was taken into consideration. Obviously where one is located matters as I'm air conditioned year round and my room temps remain in the 69-72 range and only because we adjust it. Those in colder climates might have days where windows are open and temps will likely fluctuate.

My quest is how to best setup my main as well as QT and observation. Tossing the heater would be best for various reasons and going to try first with smaller tanks yet curious if others have and where exactly did this dogma evolve from. Doesn't appear to be isolated to corals. Recall planted tanks of the 70s were in the 75-78 range best I can recall.
Idk if your asking this as well but your QT for sure should be very close to 78. Especially if you are treating any parasites the protocols are designed for how they respond around 78 degrees.
 
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Hmmm... you are suggesting evidence-based reason over marketing? There are numerous anecdotes and growers of SPS in particular on this forumn referencing more rapid growth with 26.7-27 temperatures. I would love to see a study with markers of growth in across a range of temperature with all other parameters equal.
Better growth doesn’t equate to better for the organism. Steroids make muscles bigger, for example.
 
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Yeah, I don't think they've lost the ability to adapt, I would think they just need time to adapt - in the wild, they're adapted to the constantly fluctuating parameters (temperature, light, nutrients, etc.), but the changes are usually relatively small and gradual, so they have time to adapt as they change; in our aquariums, the changes tend to be very rapid and drastic (for examples, a heater malfunctioning and staying off or on could swing the temperature by a very large amount in just a few hours, or switching out a light could change the spectrum and PAR received in an instant permanently).

I would expect captive corals to be as or nearly as resilient as wild corals if given the same small changes and time to adjust.
Those drastic changes what I’m trying to avoid which would happen with thermostat stuck and heater quickly raising tank temperature vs the gradual increase/decrease should overall power fail. Bigger the tank. Less gradual that change occurs. Lower the temperature in summer the more cushion and higher the temp in winter more cushion.

Genetically speaking. Corals in captivity haven’t lost what they developed over thousands of years in just a few decades.
 
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I’ve been diving in the Keys and Hawaii, Snorkeling in the Bahamas, and I can tell you the temperatures are constantly changing minute by minute.
Being we have south near shore currents and then there’s the north Gulf Stream. Are temps different as you dive deeper? Many don’t realize there are different currents beneath the surface and any who have deep water fished would soon realize that.
 
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True, that also applies to Alk and Ph.
That’s a good analogy. Corals can live in 5 dkh if dropped gradually or as high 14 I’ve seen mentioned. pH as low 7.8 or high as 8.5 and higher on both for those seeking expedited growth yet not all agree faster is better. 7/8.3 respectively likely best for those just trying to be closer to nature
 
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Idk if your asking this as well but your QT for sure should be very close to 78. Especially if you are treating any parasites the protocols are designed for how they respond around 78 degrees.
My QT will be at 84 to accelerate the life cycle of pathogens. Long term observation will match tank parameters as much as possible in all areas. Makes pluck and drop easier when time comes.
 

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