very clean setup, nice work!
Whip’s Red Sea Reefer XXL 750 Hybrid Bare Bottom Build
- Build Thread
- Thread starter Whip
- Start date
Use optical sensors or a breakout box U already have the apex
Just put a float valve on it just in case the top optical sensor doesn’t work
U could also use one optical sensor with say two gallons left and see how long it takes the dos to fill up your ato container with two gallons left subtract a couple mins from that total time and make that ur code
When optical sensor closed run dos for 3:30
Or whatever but still have a float valve
Or use an atk for your atk
Just put a float valve on it just in case the top optical sensor doesn’t work
U could also use one optical sensor with say two gallons left and see how long it takes the dos to fill up your ato container with two gallons left subtract a couple mins from that total time and make that ur code
When optical sensor closed run dos for 3:30
Or whatever but still have a float valve
Or use an atk for your atk
Looks like a fun setup so far. My only advice would be to not setup a fuge yet. Often tanks under a year will pull out too many nutrients leading to dinos. After about a year I'd consider putting it online. There are several builds on this site that have similar builds that start the same and then 6 months down the road they have dinos because their system doesnt have enough nutrients to keep good algaes that will out compete dinos. Just trying to save you from a massive headache down the road.
Your tank has a ton of potential, good luck!
Your tank has a ton of potential, good luck!
OP
OP
Looks great so far! Like I said, slow and steady. I keep looking at my bare tank and force myself not to head to the frag tank and pull some frags out.
AWC sounds nice and maybe something I might do down the road but for now I continue to haul water in and out. My arms are getting huge though.
That is HILARIOUS!
Thanks for the positive reenforcement regarding patience... I need it. If I had a frag tank readily available, I might not be displaying the patience you do though!
Thanks for taking the time to read my build thread!
I appreciate you stopping by. I know catching up on a seven page build thread is a pain, but I appreciate you doing it. I’m always looking for feedback.
So good to hear from you. I’ve been watching your thread constantly. It’s been a great read.
Thanks for sharing the link and that ATO unit offers a viable solution. I am going to weigh it against the others listed below. Regardless, thanks for sharing. I’ll let you know the direction I go.
Thanks for the compliment. This forum has been great and the community (and all of the learning) has been exceptional. Thanks for taking the time to read my build.
I actually like this idea. It makes a lot of sense and it sticks with my Apex platform.
I think using optical switches would be slick. If switch ON, then dos OFF (or something like that). I might even put in some redundant optical sensors.
I am a little concerned with using a float valve on a peristaltic pump as I am not sure it has a bypass and might blow a hose (I have no idea).
Thanks for your input and you have proposed a scenario that I hadn’t the faintest idea existed. I appreciate that tremendously! It will likely result in more hours of YouTube video and forum searches.
I know I came across a 57 page Dinos thread. I got through 5 pages of it, but it sounds like I should commit to reading the entire thing. Thanks!
OP
OP
I know that I shouldn’t chase numbers (especially on a new tank), but I am trying to get my pH up and stabilized.
My high is 8.11 (which isn’t too bad), but summer is here and I can’t leave my den window open anymore.
With that in mind, it has become time to try to pipe fresh air in through the wall to my skimmer.
I have a Deltec 1000i and it is supposed to pull a fair amount of air, but I wanted to use the largest ID tubing possible to reduce any friction losses. Luckily, the air intake on the Deltec comes with a fitting the has a 3/8” OD. I purchased some 3/8” ID tubing and it went together perfectly.
I then installed it on my Deltec.
The skimmer is functioning perfectly.
I’ll let it run for a while and see if I get an increase in pH. I’d also be happy if I shut my windows and still maintained the same pH I had when the widows were open. That’d be a win too.
My high is 8.11 (which isn’t too bad), but summer is here and I can’t leave my den window open anymore.
With that in mind, it has become time to try to pipe fresh air in through the wall to my skimmer.
I have a Deltec 1000i and it is supposed to pull a fair amount of air, but I wanted to use the largest ID tubing possible to reduce any friction losses. Luckily, the air intake on the Deltec comes with a fitting the has a 3/8” OD. I purchased some 3/8” ID tubing and it went together perfectly.
I then installed it on my Deltec.
The skimmer is functioning perfectly.
I’ll let it run for a while and see if I get an increase in pH. I’d also be happy if I shut my windows and still maintained the same pH I had when the widows were open. That’d be a win too.
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OP
OP
Well... I had to rearrange the sump (heater issues). I’ll post pics in a bit.
For about a week now, I’ve had a 15A breaker tripping. It’s been driving me nuts; there’s nothing worse than getting an APEX heartbeat alarm when you’re at work!
Anyway, I unplugged everything and ran extension cords from other circuits (wife isn’t happy), but it was still tripping. At this point in time, it only had low voltage electronics (cable modem, home phone, etc.), so I looked up the breaker and found the manufacture replaced it with another version because it “nuisance” trips. So, after a trip to Home Depot... done deal!
Anyway, it got me thinking... I am running two Finnex 800W heaters off of the same EB832. One pretty much maxes it out. I did some reading and found out that is a no-no. Luckily, I ran one in Lead and one in Lag, so the the Lag would rarely run. If both ran, it’d be pushing the limits for sure (around 12A - 14A... ouch!).
So, I hastily ordered and received two Finnex 300W heaters and installed those. Each heater is running off of a separate EB832, so I am good to go! I still have them in Lead and Lag configuration, but bought Finnex controllers with them so I have redundant heaters outfitted with failsafes. I read a post from a familiar face (@Diesel48) on the Neptune forum talking about it... so I did something similar.
Hopefully those two 300W heaters can keep up with a big XXL 750. So far; so good!
For about a week now, I’ve had a 15A breaker tripping. It’s been driving me nuts; there’s nothing worse than getting an APEX heartbeat alarm when you’re at work!
Anyway, I unplugged everything and ran extension cords from other circuits (wife isn’t happy), but it was still tripping. At this point in time, it only had low voltage electronics (cable modem, home phone, etc.), so I looked up the breaker and found the manufacture replaced it with another version because it “nuisance” trips. So, after a trip to Home Depot... done deal!
Anyway, it got me thinking... I am running two Finnex 800W heaters off of the same EB832. One pretty much maxes it out. I did some reading and found out that is a no-no. Luckily, I ran one in Lead and one in Lag, so the the Lag would rarely run. If both ran, it’d be pushing the limits for sure (around 12A - 14A... ouch!).
So, I hastily ordered and received two Finnex 300W heaters and installed those. Each heater is running off of a separate EB832, so I am good to go! I still have them in Lead and Lag configuration, but bought Finnex controllers with them so I have redundant heaters outfitted with failsafes. I read a post from a familiar face (@Diesel48) on the Neptune forum talking about it... so I did something similar.
Hopefully those two 300W heaters can keep up with a big XXL 750. So far; so good!
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Another option is to crawl through the attic and run a dedicated line for the tank. I did this so the only thing pulling amps would be what the tank uses. It sure was fun crawling through the attic in September in Florida. I'm glad you got your issues sorted out though.
I have two Finnex 300W on my 160G tank, and plan to use them for my new RSR 750 (started separate thread on this). They are plenty powerful for the 160G, only one ever goes on, as I have the other staggered 0.2 degrees. The 2nd is more of a backup.
Also, I’m hoping to reuse my Vectra M1s as return pumps on the XXL. I have 2 on my double return 160G, both running at about 3/5ths of the max speed. Do you think one of these will work for the XXL? What do you use, and what flow rate do you target on your FMK?
Thanks, and great thread! I’m planning to replicate most of the plumbing techniques you used on my XXL build.
OP
OP
I am glad you are finding value in the plumbing techniques and thanks for following my build thread. I’ll be following yours as well!
Thanks for the info on the dual 300W Finnex heaters. I installed them on my tank and am experiencing the same properties you mentioned above.
Regarding your return pump questions, I think an M1 will work fine and I have read that many 750 owners have successfully used them. When researching a pump, many 750 owners went with the Varios 8. I went with the latter, but I am running it at only level 2. The tank’s flow seems to balance out around 515 gph. My FMK is showing 509 - 521 gph.
I have the Varios 8 as well but only running on level 1. I do have the Theiling Compact roller mat and if I go above 1 it seems to be to much flow for it.
OP
OP
Another month has passed and I’d thought I would add an update...
I really liked my original scape, but the wide open expanse on the right side was kind of bugging me. I also wanted more hiding places for fish and some elevation for corals. As such, I decided to aquascape another giant mass of dry rock and drop it in. The tank handled the dry rock nicely and I saw very little change in water chemistry.
Now for some details...
As many of you know, cable management is key to keeping things looking nice and in order to not see my gyre cords, I ran black 3/4” raceways down each side of the tank. I am serious when I say I CANNOT see the cords anymore. The black raceways blend perfectly the black seam in the glass.
As you all know, I ran white raceways in the sump. These are very similar, but black and of a thinner profile.
And, because I have OCD, I picked up some white, single cord raceways and filled the gaps on each side of my ATO reservoir.
I really liked my original scape, but the wide open expanse on the right side was kind of bugging me. I also wanted more hiding places for fish and some elevation for corals. As such, I decided to aquascape another giant mass of dry rock and drop it in. The tank handled the dry rock nicely and I saw very little change in water chemistry.
Now for some details...
As many of you know, cable management is key to keeping things looking nice and in order to not see my gyre cords, I ran black 3/4” raceways down each side of the tank. I am serious when I say I CANNOT see the cords anymore. The black raceways blend perfectly the black seam in the glass.
As you all know, I ran white raceways in the sump. These are very similar, but black and of a thinner profile.
And, because I have OCD, I picked up some white, single cord raceways and filled the gaps on each side of my ATO reservoir.
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OP
OP
I have fielded a ton of awesome questions via PM and I am hoping I’ve helped a lot of folks out with their builds. Many fellow RSR folks have been asking questions about my plumbing, so I wanted to share an announcement... I am switching my color scheme to orange!
Almost everything about the piping will remain the same. I am debating the orientation of the tees on the header, but I can build that when I need to. Everything else works flawlessly... I just wanted orange and decided to do it.
Here is a sneak peek of what’s to come...
Once installed, I’ll do a full sump update on the following:
1. Running fresh air into my skimmer.
2. Pumping fresh air nano-bubbles (Apex controlled) into aquarium for six hours at night.
3. Pumping ozone into my skimmer for two hours at night (Apex controlled). BTW... it’s true... it makes your water crystal clear and I rarely clean my glass.
Almost everything about the piping will remain the same. I am debating the orientation of the tees on the header, but I can build that when I need to. Everything else works flawlessly... I just wanted orange and decided to do it.
Here is a sneak peek of what’s to come...
Once installed, I’ll do a full sump update on the following:
1. Running fresh air into my skimmer.
2. Pumping fresh air nano-bubbles (Apex controlled) into aquarium for six hours at night.
3. Pumping ozone into my skimmer for two hours at night (Apex controlled). BTW... it’s true... it makes your water crystal clear and I rarely clean my glass.
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OP
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Thanks for the compliment and I appreciate you stopping by and checking it out.
As seen above... I am going orange! Hopefully it looks as clean as the red did.
You reminded me that I need to do an update on my mixing station. Not much has changed, but I have added two Neptune DOS’s and all of my tubing for my AWC and fresh RODI is installed. I still plan to keep my original red piping... but it doesn’t match the two Neptune DOS’s...
Kidding. I’ll keep it red. That’s a lot of money and time to convert that!
OP
OP
Sure! These are different than the ones I used in the sump. They are thinner. I can get one Maxspect cord and one Aquabus cable (for AFS) in there.
One-Cord Channel Cable Concealer...
Here are the white ones I used in the sump. I can get up to six dosing tubes in one raceway.
Cord Covers Raceway Kit, 157"...
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dude those raceways look amazing! I am gonna steel that idea for my 750...if it ever gets up and running.
on a side note you could sell your old plumping. heck I would take it off your hands I like your manifold better than mine anyway.
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