When to clean tank? (successfully competing dinos with diatoms)

TCreefjlb

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Hi all, first post here, and relatively new to the hobby as well.

My tank (25G) is a very, very new tank, being about a month old.

My current Parameters are as follows:
Salinity: 1.025
Temp: 27 - 29 degrees celcius over course of day
Ammonia: 0.15
Nitrates: 0.25 - 0.5
Phos: 0.1 - 0.25
Mg: 1440
Calcium: 440
Alkalinity: 8.3

Stocking:
pair of clownfish
4 astrea snails
3 red legged hermit crabs


I recently had an outbreak of Dinos, caused by a number of factors:
1. Low bacterial load - started with live sand BUT dry rock (which I regret), and Nite Out II to cycle the tank.
2. Over skimming
3. Turned lights on early into cycling
4. Zero phosphates at the time with 0.25 nitrates


To be transparent, (1) and my impatience in having clowns into the tank were a large contributing factor for causing the dino outbreak, and if I could have done things differently, I would have started with live Rock, and cycled the tank for longer without any lights.

The Dinos appeared probably a week into the tank’s existence. Since then, I did quite a bit of reading on the forums on how to combat them.

Identification - i believe they were LCAs. Unfortunately my microscope only arrived after they had receded with the diatom bloom, but I say this with a degree of confidence because they were purely in my sand bed and rocks and not in the water column. Moreover, my CUC did not die from eating the nuisance algae on the sand bed.

Course of action - I started with a manual removal of whatever LCAs I could see on my sand bed and rocks. Then I did a 3 day blackout, and started to heavily feed my clownfish (2 mysis cubes a day). By the end of the blackout, the LCAs had receded, but that was not the end. I continued to overfeed to increase the bacterial load, and started to encourage diatom growth by doing a minor dose of Neonitrate and Neophos. I did not add silica. I also added the recommended dose of Phyto Feast daily, as well as random cups of copepods into the tank. I also started to dose Microbacter 7 daily at the recommended dosage. I bought a UV light just in case but understand that they are not as effective against LCAs who burrow into the sand.

After a week of following the above, I noticed a growth of film algae on my glass after the first Couple of days. Then a separate growth of what appeared to be brown algae on my sand. As of today, i am experiencing a diatom bloom on my sand bed and still have left the film algae on my glass, which has since expanded. There still (by my naked eye) very few small snotty strands LCAs, but when I try to view it under the microscope, I see more of the diatoms rather than the LCAs. I say this because I see more of the short lined cells rather than the round circle shaped LCA cells that others have identified as dinos on other posts. Attaching samples of what I see under my scope, sorry if it is not the clearest shot.

More recently, under the microscope, I have noticed that the short lined cells have overtaken any trace of the round cells, hence my belief that the algae I see on my walls and send bed are diatoms.

My query is: when should I clear my sand bed and walls of the diatom bloom and stop keeping the nutrient levels elevated?

My suspicion is that the tank is basically going through an “uglies” phase (which it should rightly have gone through at the very start but for my impatience), and I should leave it for some time, keep over feeding and dosing phyto, the pods and the MB7, slowly cut back on the nitrates and phos (but not reduce it to zero). If this is correct, this means that at some point the bacterial load in the tank will balance itself out and the bloom go away on its own. I can appreciate that it is a supposedly fine balance since all forms of algae balance each other out in a healthy system.

However, if I keep over feeding and dosing phyto + MB7, wouldn’t the diatom bloom continue to persist as nutrients in the water remain high?

Any thoughts on how to go from here? Impatience got me into this mess with dinos , and I do not intend to make the same mistake again, and can handle a “dirty” looking tank for some time, but certainly not forever haha.

Grateful to hear your views on this. Thanks all

IMG_3992.jpeg IMG_3994.jpeg IMG_3993.jpeg IMG_3991.jpeg
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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study that, run the procedure. Best to know it before you are stacked in animals, easy practice on a new tank


then afterwards reduce your light level by -30% and hold for a month to evaluate regrowth

battle any invasion physically, not chemically, for the long term win. Rip cleans are refreshing at all times, good for any reef

exports sandbed waste along with invasion cells at the same time


treatments and additives and parameter adjusts that may kill a target (or cause more of it we see in work threads) stack up the dead cells in the tank. This is why using other methods causes new invasions from differing species

that above doesn’t cause tradeoff invasions. Learn to clean deeply, correctly, the way you were about to clean it just causes tradeoff invasions a few weeks later.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Using the above system the ID doesn’t factor. It works for all reef tank invasions and there isnt a better method for nanos, due to size and ease of access

rip cleaning doesn’t have to be the sole method. It’s the cleaner


everything else is the preventer, re order the way you reef for the win: when you can see a blanketing mass in the tank, the rip cleans resets it. Then apply UV sterilizer, or nutrient adjustments / common options for all dinos strains, in the clean condition where there is no visible mass…as prevention only

the masses do the opposite: see an invasion, leave it, apply preventatives and stack up the decaying mass for GHA cyclic invasion next. A doser to kill the gha, then on to cyano with the double compound mass
 
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threebuoys

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You have an awful lot going on in a tank only 1 month old. With the few fish you have, I would pull everything out and start building back from scratch. I'm surprised your problems manifested so quickly and so aggressively. May want to review some advice for new tanks posts.
 
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TCreefjlb

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Using the above system the ID doesn’t factor. It works for all reef tank invasions and there isnt a better method for nanos, due to size and ease of access

rip cleaning doesn’t have to be the sole method. It’s the cleaner


everything else is the preventer, re order the way you reef for the win: when you can see a blanketing mass in the tank, the rip cleans resets it. Then apply UV sterilizer, or nutrient adjustments / common options for all dinos strains, in the clean condition where there is no visible mass…as prevention only

the masses do the opposite: see an invasion, leave it, apply preventatives and stack up the decaying mass for GHA cyclic invasion next. A doser to kill the gha, then on to cyano with the double compound mass

Thanks for your advice Brandon! In my research on how to tackle the problem, I came across your extensive thread on rip cleaning and it’s incredible results. I was particularly amazed by your explanation on how a rip clean did not require a fresh cycle and your (un)conventional? views on the survivability of beneficial bacteria etc and how the results speak for themselves. Your ethos and clarity of thought towards reefing and establishing proactive control over the tank really resonated with me, and to be honest, doing a rip clean was actually the first thing I considered doing.

However, I ultimately did not go with a rip clean because I was thinking about my own approach towards the tank - I had been impatient in rushing steps, and that caused the initial Dino outbreak. While the rip and fresh start sounded attractive, I couldn’t shake the idea that doing that would just be me reacting once more to an event in the tank, and what if something else happens after the rip? Rip again?

Hence was thinking of giving the tank a chance to mature without changing parameters or adding anything new, as well as forcing myself not to react too quickly.. My original qn was just whether to clean off the diatoms or to leave em’ in the meantime.

That said I do agree with you on the value and effects of ripping, and intend to try it if nothing changes after at least 2 - 3 months but in the meantime will observe closely as you have suggested!
 

taricha

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"vacuum out anything dark enough to annoy you" is solid conservative step - I never worry about losing "good stuff" when I'm sucking out a patch of brown/red/green nuisance.
will the stuff come back? sure. but less over time.
 
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TCreefjlb

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"vacuum out anything dark enough to annoy you" is solid conservative step - I never worry about losing "good stuff" when I'm sucking out a patch of brown/red/green nuisance.
will the stuff come back? sure. but less over time.
Thanks Tachira. Will try this and monitor slowly now that the dino wave is over.
 
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