What is killing my frags? It is hard like barnacles.

jvbear

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What is killing my frags? It is hard like barnacles. I dipped the corals in Revive and tried peroxide. I did water change, but these white dots keep multiplying and my mixed reef is dying. Is this barnacles? I don't know what to do. It is in my 100g tanks with fish and invertebrates. I have both sps and lps. What is it and what should I do? Will it harm my fish?

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jvbear

jvbear

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Spiorbid worms. Those aren’t killing your corals. Probably something off in water parameters. How olds the tank?
Tank is a year old. I sent water sample off a few months ago to ICP and they said only thing low was magnesium. I added some but haven't tested with them since. I took a water sample to the local fish store today and they said nitrates were a little high, but that is all. I did a water change this afternoon. What else can I do?
 

KrisReef

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Pictures kind of look like the tank needs better lighting to keep corals growing?

(Agree- Spirorbids are not the source of the problem.)
 
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jvbear

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I tried to post a video but it says file is too large. Here are pics. I removed the overflow and sump and replaced with FX4 and FX2 canisters and HOB skimmer.
 

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Tomb85

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I tried to post a video but it says file is too large. Here are pics. I removed the overflow and sump and replaced with FX4 and FX2 canisters and HOB skimmer.
Could you do a list of your light setting cycle? So we can see what they are running at? I also notice your lights are on a separate cycle aswell.
 
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jvbear

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Could you do a list of your light setting cycle? So we can see what they are running at? I also notice your lights are on a separate cycle aswell.
They were off. I manually turned them on for the picture. I need to call Kessil for help with the cycle in the app. I am currently using a Kasa plug for timer I had with a previous light. Can you show me what a good cycle should look like?
 
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I have it set for 6 hrs per day and manually change light from blue to white at different times. I just haven't taken time to figure out the app. I will make this a priority.
 

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I don't mean to pile on, but I would add a few things...
- Check the actual PAR. Visually you won't be able to tell, you'll need to rent a PAR meter.
- Flow can be tricky. For the euphyllia, I would go with an area of almost no flow to figure out what's going on.
- The current value of many parameters is good to know, but alk and pH you need a trend. Going from 9 to 10 or 11 is enough to kill many coral and they're all "safe" numbers. These require a pH probe and either Trident (Apex), iv (hydros), or some other method like an alkatronic or mastertronic.
- Temperature is a big player. What are you using to check Temperature? Has it been calibrated? My ink bird was off by 5 degrees when I bought it and I couldn't figure out what was wrong until I got a calibrated temp sensor.

Hopefully this helps you dig in. I know it's a lot but remember that coral are sensitive animals where anything shifting in their environment can cause problems.
 
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jvbear

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I have a Hygger heater it has a display of temperature and fluctuates between 79-80°. I also have a floating thermometer. I had another larger fan but my anemone got stuck in it a couple of times so I turned it off. He survived and was not injured bad. I tried the foam cover but it wouldn't stay on.
Until you figure it out I would do a large water change and just to be safe throw some activated charcoal in the sump.
Will charcoal kill my copapods and phyto they eat?
 

Dom

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I tried to post a video but it says file is too large. Here are pics. I removed the overflow and sump and replaced with FX4 and FX2 canisters and HOB skimmer.

In my experience, people do that the other way around; they go from canister filter to sump and not sump to canister filter.

Understand that canister filters are nitrate factories. They require frequent maintenance.

I started with two canister filters; one on the system and a second as a backup. While one works, I disassembled, cleaned and prepared the other for the next swap.

Lots of work, so, I switched to a sump.

Yes, a complete set of water parameters along with a full tank picture (I understand they are worth a thousand words).
 

kevgib67

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I have a Hygger heater it has a display of temperature and fluctuates between 79-80°. I also have a floating thermometer. I had another larger fan but my anemone got stuck in it a couple of times so I turned it off. He survived and was not injured bad. I tried the foam cover but it wouldn't stay on.

Will charcoal kill my copapods and phyto they eat?
No, I run my tank with it 24/7 and have pods and dose phyto.
 

Tnops

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I see a vermetid snail on one of the frags, that could be stressing them out
 
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jvbear

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Is this feather a barnacle? Watch til end you will see it retract. I also started seeing this tiny white starfish on the glass.
 

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Tomb85

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They were off. I manually turned them on for the picture. I need to call Kessil for help with the cycle in the app. I am currently using a Kasa plug for timer I had with a previous light. Can you show me what a good cycle should look like?
I don't have kessil lights but I'm sure you could ask in a separate post for kessil setup as I'm sure I've seen it on here in the past.
 

Tomb85

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Is this feather a barnacle? Watch til end you will see it retract. I also started seeing this tiny white starfish on the glass.
Vermitted snails are a pain try to remove everyone one by one as I has them in the pass and they do stress corals by little stringy snot they send out to catch food. I ended up resetting my tank because they got so bad yrs back. The star fish I'm sure you can get a wrasse that eats them or hermit crabs. The star fish can turn into a pest also try to remove them where you can aswell.
 

19Mateo83

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What intensity are you running your lights at? Those Kessil AP9x are really strong at 100%. Figuring out the app isn’t too hard. I run mine at 10” off the surface at max 50%. I also have acrylic lids so it’s probably more in the 45% range.
I have to keep euphyllia low and on the edges and acros, Monti and stylophoras high on top.


IMG_1046.jpeg
 
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jvbear

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What intensity are you running your lights at? Those Kessil AP9x are really strong at 100%. Figuring out the app isn’t too hard. I run mine at 10” off the surface at max 50%. I also have acrylic lids so it’s probably more in the 45% range.
I have to keep euphyllia low and on the edges and acros, Monti and stylophoras high on top.


IMG_1046.jpeg

Thank you!
 
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