Watch me kill SPS...

Skep18

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I've gone back and forth debating whether to make this thread... I think I know the responses I'm going to get. There seems to be many ways to success and much of the feedback and/or research I've seen in the past seems to have just as many testimonies which show direct conflict to the claims. (I.e. LED's don't grow SPS, dead rock won't grow SPS, etc.) That said, with the money I've spent on frags that end up in the sump rock rubble is enough to have made a second tank setup... Which is to say whatever it is I am doing isn't work AT ALL so here I am again looking to see if anyone has something insightful to perhaps help my situation.

As some background, my 210gal tank has been up for almost 2 years. Since day 1, I have heeded the advice of some on this forum and @BRS videos and have quarantined nearly everything wet that goes into my tank. The only exception being some SPS frags which, according to R2R info, cannot harbor encysted parasites on healthy coral fleshy tissue. By QT I mean all fish have been treated with PraziPro and copper in a QT tank for at least 30 if not 45 days. All corals are dipped in Bayer. All corals are either moved on a fresh plug or have their existing plug exposed surfaces completely covered in super glue. My tank was started with Marco Rock bought directly from Marco. As such, I have never seen symptoms of any parasite or disease in my tank. (Exhibit 1 which will draw contraversy)

As far as equipment goes, my lighting is Reef Breeders Photo V2+ LED's with 2/ea T5 Blue+ bulbs to supplement. Settings are ~4hr of full light where PAR levels are ~400 at the highest rock and ~120 at the sand bed. I run a RO skimmer. I generally run BRS ROX carbon at amounts slightly less than instructions recommend. I have 2/ea Maxspect Gyre XF280's and 2/ea Neptune WAV pumps for in tank flow. Not sure what else to mention but I feel my equipment is pretty standard or at least not crazy far away from what maybe considered "common".

For maintenance, I usually do water changes once a month with ~40gal. I used to use Red Sea Blue Bucket but switched to Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt. I have a BRS 6 stage RODI unit. My parameters are generally as follows:

salinity - 35ppt*
temp - 77.6 - 78.4*F
Alk - 8.0 dKH
Calcium - 440ppm
Magnesium - 1300ppm
Nitrates - 5ppm**
Phosphates - 0.02ppm*

*Salinity recently trended down to 33ppt. Been bringing it back up slowly. Currently at 34ppt.
**For a long time, after I gave up on coral, my nutrients dropped to ~0 despite heavy feeding. Dunno why. Had to dose to get them back up. After dosing to get them up, they have stayed steady. Somewhat suggests nothing is consuming them anyways?

I have run an ICP test maybe a year ago when I tried to grow SPS last time. Test results didn't reveal anything revolutionary.

Here is what I experience with my SPS corals. Frags come in looking great. After my receiving practices, I put them on a frag rack near the sand bed. I've tried leaving them there any I've tried raising them slowly. It doesn't seem to change the end result. Generally, about a week into their receipt, the bases start to look what I describe as "crunchy" or "crusty". Oddly I have been unable to find posts that use descriptors such as this. Generally, it looks as if the skin of the base is slowly receeding to expose the pointy skeleton bits at the base. From there, tissue at the tips starts to look beaten and worn. Corallites start to look "burned" exposing skeleton. Over the coming weeks, this ultimately leads to what I assume is STN and rarely over night RTN.

In my most recent endeavor, I reached out to Adam @Battlecorals who was nice enough to let me buy a "tester SPS box" which included a monti, a stylo, a milli and an acro. Its been 15 days since receipt and they are seemingly heading down the same path as I've experienced in the past. Here are some photos to illustrate:

Day 1
20200414_103231.jpg


Day 15
20200428_120344.jpg


As you can see, I think its safe to say none of them look as good as they did when they came in. According to what I see on here, the majority of people experience that new frags generally do not look worse before they start looking better. The general consensus is they should look good the whole time. As I have never successfully kept an SPS alive, I am unclear as to what success looks like to be honest. I have no idea if any of this is normal or not.

In full disclosure, as mentioned some above, I have experienced some less than stable parameters as of my most recent attempt at SPS. I don't know if any of them are extreme enough to cause the dramatic changes in the frags as I am seeing.

Also as note, in the past I have kept zoas alive and growing. At some point, something I did seems to have negatively effected the zoas. I lost most of them but have three different zoa "colonies" left. Two of them are stagnant, going in and out of being fully open for days or being bothered and being mixed of closed and open. One colony continues to grow and multiply though.

In an effort to try and document my experiences, I have written the following email to Adam at Battle Corals as a "hail mary" to get some help. However, I think its unreasonable for me to expect a vendor to evaluate my situation as I'm sure they get these all the time. I'm also sure its hard to really get a picture of a tank from just an email, video or pictures. The system is dynamic and complex and I'm not even sure anything short of letting a "professional" take over my tank maintenance would even stand a chance. Nonetheless, the following is my most recent email to Adam to share some of my information:

Adam,

Just an update, unfortunately I think things are headed the direction I expected. Admittedly, some of it is likely my fault. My lack of trying to add stony coral for many months has let me lapse on my water testing. As such, some of my parameters had swung out of "ideal" ranges. I have begun to slowly correct them but I'm not sure which, if any, could contribute to this. Also, there's one big mistake I think I made. In thinking maybe they weren't getting sufficient lighting on a magnetic frag rack at the bottom corner of my tank, this past Thursday (Day 10) I moved the frag rack to maybe the top 1/3 of my tank, still in the corner. It's hard to tell if its coincidence in timing or contributing, but this seems to have made the most dramatic difference on the couple frags that were still doing OK. I moved it in the PM so they only spent one photo period in high light.

As far as the coral go, I've taken daily photos of each frag to be able to look back at the progress. I'd describe them as follows:

- Montipora went down hill pretty quickly. I'm not very familiar with monti's. Their growing edges look kinda white to me anyways so I wasn't sure when that one started showing skeleton. I'd say on Friday (Day 5) I could positively say polyps weren't showing as much and edges were getting "crusty". By this past Wednesday (Day 9) there was some flesh still but there was more skeleton than flesh. As of today, I see some yellow polyps in the "corallites" (or whatever they are on monti's) but I suspect its just the receded tissue showing them. I'll leave it on the rack but I suspect its gone.

Day 10, prior to frag rack move:

monti 1.png

Today, after being move to high light:
monti 2.png


- The stylo showed good polyps until maybe Day 8. They came and went a couple days before that but I figured that was maybe normal. The flesh between the polyps did look different at Day 2 or 3, losing some of its "white color" but I figured showing polyps was still good. Following the move higher in the tank, the polyps continued to come and go as they did lower in the tank but maybe were less pronounced overall. As of today, I'm seeing even more white between the polyps. Thinking maybe its on its way out as well but not very definitive as of yet. (Notable, the coralline on the plug I left exposed is definitely growing.)

Day 10, prior to frag rack move:
stylo 1.png

Today, after being move to high light for 2 days, only one photo period:
stylo 2.png


- The millipora I though was doing pretty well through Day 9 or so. Polyps appeared out. Maybe not as pronounced as they were when they just came in but still out. On around Day 7, I believe the base was even starting to encrust over the glue on the plug. Overall, it has been pretty good. However, following the raising to higher light, I noticed today the top middle tip is looking "crusty" almost as if the light burned back the skin there. I think this one is not necessarily gone, but hate to see this recent change.

Day 10, prior to frag rack move:
milli 1.png

Today, after being move to high light for 2 days, only one photo period:
milli 2.png


- The acropora has probably done the best of them all. Like the milli, I think around Day 7 I started to see the base encrust over the glue. There was a bleached portion that was there when it came in (a very small spot) that maybe got a little bigger, but no skin loss there. As my previous email stated, the encrusted base did get a little crusty in the initial days but with the encrusting, I figured that was maybe just an adjusting period or, as you said, reacting to glue. I'd say the frag itself, not the base, looked about 90% as good as it did when it came in as of Day 9 prior to the move. However, as of the moving of the frag rack, it has started to pale out a bit. Polyps seemed quite happy in the higher flow area in the higher part of the tank though. Overall, I have hopes for this one but we'll have to wait and see.

Day 10, prior to frag rack move:
acro 1.png

Today, after being move to high light for 2 days, only one photo period:
acro 2.png


As an aside, I have gotten some frags from a couple of locals as of Monday this week. I also got a maricultured piece from Live Aquaria in an attempt to "seed" that tank with ocean rock and test the "SPS need ocean-seeded live rock to survive, dead/dry rock tanks always stuggle" theory I hear all to often on R2R. They are in my QT system. The SPS are a red plating monti, a spongode and a green slimer. The maricultured piece is a big secale with loads of plating/encrusting coralline on the rock. They are much newer to my possession so comparing them isn't entire accurate but they look almost identical as to when they came in. Maricultured piece is maybe lightening on the tips a very small amount, so small I hesitate to note it, but that's it. The 5 SPS in my QT look great.

In case its of interest, the following are the tank changes alluded to above:

- Salinity crept down to 33ppt. I've began raising it on Day 7 by adding salt water a little but every day instead of letting my ATO top off with RODI. As of today, its probably 34ppt.
- My calcium was low at 390ppm as of Day 1. Suspect its related to my low salinity. I've been dosing on my DOS to raise it to steadily. As of today, it read 450ppm.
- Alkalinity was lower at 7dKH. Like calcium, I think it had some to do with my salinity. I have not dosed it up. Increasing salinity has brought it up to 8.1dKH as of today.
- I've always struggled with readings of zero nitrates and phosphates. I've added sodium nitrate to my ATO as of Day 3. Its come up to 5ppm over the period.
- I added trisodium phosphate initially to my ATO but noticed it fueled algae growth pretty rapidly. It came up to 0.02ppm from dosing then went back to zero the next day. Interestingly, having not dosed for a week now, its reading 0.07ppm as of last night. It could be a bad Hanna packet but I thought it was positive to show some phosphates "naturally".

Finally, should it help share, here is a link to a short video I took of my tank. This maybe help communicate my setup details.

YouTube Video:

I'm partially writing this to get it all out and to organize my thoughts and document my experience. Should you find the time/interest in looking it over, I would be grateful. Of course, if you have ideas, I'm nearing desperate and very disheartened by all this. I firmly believe my "LARS" contributed to all this. I am looking into adding some more flow to my tank

cleardot.gif

If you're still reading at this point, thank you. I am doing this in hopes someone maybe able to help. Any and all feedback will be appreciated. As outlined above, I am going to try and change a couple things then throw away another $200 on a battle box I guess...

Thanks again for your time.
 
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Skep18

Skep18

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If they do good in your at tank maybe get an icp done on the qt and the display and see if anything is different.

Not a bad idea. The QT was setup with just Tropic Marin Pro salt and cycled with BioSpira. Maybe useful to send in the DT and QT and compare though. (My old ICP of my DT is probably too old to be relevant anymore)

That said, while the frags in the QT are still looking good, I was dispoointed to see the coralline on the Divers Den frag is starting to bleach out... Sucks cuz that was part of the reason I bought the thing. Perhaps its "magic ocean bacteria" can still seed the QT though. Lol, forgive my cynicism.

Thank you for the idea!
 

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From what I've read on here of people going through similar situations where parameters, age of system and stability were not the issue, bacterial biodiversity was called in to question. It could be something to look into.
 
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From what I've read on here of people going through similar situations where parameters, age of system and stability were not the issue, bacterial biodiversity was called in to question. It could be something to look into.

Thanks for the response. I have a $170 divers den brown acro in QT now. I bought it for the coralline and the "magic ocean bacteria" (as I cynically call it) in hopes to test just that. Hopefully QT does not kill this biodiversity.

At this point, I'm guessing I'm in the 1% that QT everything that can bring in fish parasites. My reading and discussions seem to show almost no one actually QT's very much. That said, I'm reluctant to throw away 2 years of efforts to maintain a pest-free tank by putting "fresh" live rock into my tank. To your point though, maybe my not doing that is 100% of the issue. I have to hope there is someone in the world who has actually practiced disciplined QT and has had SPS success. I will keep this in mind though but I'll probably throw away another $2,000 on new lights, more frags and other ideas before I compromise there... One thing is for sure though, what I am doing is not working...

I would be quite interested in understanding what bacteria diversity might do to help the system though. I know people speculate and I don't know anyone has a real, experimentally backed answer to this or anything really in this hobby. But it would be interesting to know.
 

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+1 on @Pedoconfuego icp suggestion. I would also look into stray voltage as well and recommend a grounding probe if you don’t already have one. If those check out then I would guess they’re starving. My skimmer is off from 12 pm to midnight. This gives my corals plenty of nutrition while they are getting baked by my leds at 300-550 par for 8 hours. 5ppm no3 and 0.02 po4 doesn’t tell the whole nutrition story. How many fish do you have and how much are you feeding?
I’ve heard many times that rox carbon is really harsh on sps, but I only use activated carbon if I mess with my palys, so not very often.
 
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+1 on @Pedoconfuego icp suggestion. I would also look into stray voltage as well and recommend a grounding probe if you don’t already have one. If those check out then I would guess they’re starving. My skimmer is off from 12 pm to midnight. This gives my corals plenty of nutrition while they are getting baked by my leds at 300-550 par for 8 hours. 5ppm no3 and 0.02 po4 doesn’t tell the whole nutrition story. How many fish do you have and how much are you feeding?
I’ve heard many times that rox carbon is really harsh on sps, but I only use activated carbon if I mess with my palys, so not very often.

Thanks for the idea.

I do have a grounding probe. I have checked my water for stray current as well. All is OK there.

In previous SPS batches, I have allowed my skimmer to drain back into the tank for months. It didn't seem to effect the coral in any way. In my head, the skimmer seems to benefit in aeration. Being in a newer house, my CO2 levels seem to be higher than an older house might have.

I will keep in mind taking the carbon offline. I had considered in the past maybe it could be bad but figured so many reefers run carbon, surely it couldn't be the case. However, again, I could be wrong, lol.

Have you looked for bugs?

I have in as much as I guess one could claim to. The frags are on a magnetic rack on the glass so I can get a good look of them. Nothing you can see. Also, I have not had any new frags in months at least. Idk how long pests can survive without a host though.
 

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You aren't out of the woods at 2years from this being a "new tank". So you easily could be having bacteria issues or still new tank syndrome effects on sps. I also wouldnt rule out you being one of the unlucky people that cant use their town water. Some people just cant grow sps in certain towns in this country because of crappy water.
 
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You aren't out of the woods at 2years from this being a "new tank". So you easily could be having bacteria issues or still new tank syndrome effects on sps. I also wouldnt rule out you beong one of the unlucky people that cant use their town water. Some people just cant grow sps in certain towns in this country because of crappy water.

So there is water that RODI systems cannot make clean?

Also, would these issues show up on an ICP test?

Could have merit in the "new tank". I just again struggle with so many accounts of people having SPS success at points much earlier than 2 years. I'm also unsure as to how to test that aisde waiting another 2 years of no coral... My last hiatus was an attempt at the "just wait, let it mature" advice you see here so often. And for every testimony of "new tank syndrome" there are like testimonies of "I run SPS on X months old tank, EZ."
 

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Thanks for the idea.

I do have a grounding probe. I have checked my water for stray current as well. All is OK there.

In previous SPS batches, I have allowed my skimmer to drain back into the tank for months. It didn't seem to effect the coral in any way. In my head, the skimmer seems to benefit in aeration. Being in a newer house, my CO2 levels seem to be higher than an older house might have.

I will keep in mind taking the carbon offline. I had considered in the past maybe it could be bad but figured so many reefers run carbon, surely it couldn't be the case. However, again, I could be wrong, lol.



I have in as much as I guess one could claim to. The frags are on a magnetic rack on the glass so I can get a good look of them. Nothing you can see. Also, I have not had any new frags in months at least. Idk how long pests can survive without a host though.
How many fish do you have and much are feeding them? Are you using any coral foods?
 
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How many fish do you have and much are feeding them? Are you using any coral foods?

The video probably better communicates fish sizes but I have a firefish, a bangai cardinal, 7 anthias, 6 tangs, a hawkfish, many snails.... Not sure what else comes to mind.

I feed them Piscene Energetics mysis and Hikari spirulina brine shrimp daily. I feed nori and nori pellets mostly daily. I feed Piscene Energetics pellets soaked in selcon couple days a week. No coral exclusive food aside from the debris from the shrimp.
 

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I only ask about the pests due to polyp retraction, something similar happened on a few of my specimens and had to give my tank two interceptor treatments to fix it. But they are easy to spot; just look at night with a flashlight or light from your phone and they will be obvious if they are there.

Just trying to think outside the box since your parameters seem pretty good. Have you considered introducing some real live rock into your sump/tank?
 
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I only ask about the pests due to polyp retraction, something similar happened on a few of my specimens and had to give my tank two interceptor treatments to fix it. But they are easy to spot; just look at night with a flashlight or light from your phone and they will be obvious if they are there.

Just trying to think outside the box since your parameters seem pretty good. Have you considered introducing some real live rock into your sump/tank?

I have caught bugs on a SPS frag in my QT before after buying from a member on here. Luckily those never made it into my DT.

Per above, I have a piece of maricultured live rock in my QT now. I will wait probably a few months before putting it in my DT to follow proper QT practices.
 
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Do you know if your water utility uses chloramine or not?

According to a simple paper strip test from BRS, my water does not have Chloramine. I do however keep the Chloramine-rated carbon filters in my RODI. I also do not see my DI resin deplete hardly at all. In maybe a year, one of my two DI stages has the bottom ~2in which has changed colors. Second DI stage remains the original color. I have changed all my filters before to test their potential contribution to this issue.
 

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So there is water that RODI systems cannot make clean?

Also, would these issues show up on an ICP test?

Could have merit in the "new tank". I just again struggle with so many accounts of people having SPS success at points much earlier than 2 years. I'm also unsure as to how to test that aisde waiting another 2 years of no coral... My last hiatus was an attempt at the "just wait, let it mature" advice you see here so often. And for every testimony of "new tank syndrome" there are like testimonies of "I run SPS on X months old tank, EZ."


A tds reading of zero means there are no detectable charged particles in the water, how ever uncharged particles such as gasoline, pharmaceuticals, pesticides, formaldehyde and the such will not be detected. How likely are these to sneak past your rodi I don't know.
 
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Skep18

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A tds reading of zero means there are no detectable charged particles in the water, how ever uncharged particles such as gasoline, pharmaceuticals, pesticides, formaldehyde and the such will not be detected. How likely are these to sneak past your rodi I don't know.

Good point. I appreciate the feedback. I am not sure how I would go about testing this issue though. I guess my only remedies would be either to get all my source water from some place far away from my location or to just accept not having corals. If you or anyone has ideas to test this, I am all ears.

Also, is this something other reefers somewhat-commonly experience? I've not heard of other first hand accounts of this before myself.
 

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I just read through your posts and it sounds like the perfect setup! I'm really stumped. I was able to think of a few things though.

1. Shipping: it sounds like you've got all your coral online so far. The stress from shipping is probably starting you off at a disadvantage. I'd go to your LFS and get some montipora digitata, birds nest, or pocillopora. These have been really hardy for me.

2. Frag rack? : I would place your new frags directly on the rock, glue them in, and leave them be. Having them on the edge of the tank may reduce light or play with the glass optics. Also, you're more likely to move them around which could irritate them.

3. Flow: from the pictures on day 15, you can see some stringy brown algae on the base of the frags and growing on the monti. Most of that should have pushed that off by water movement. By moving the corals onto the rockwork, you will probably remedy this.

One more possibility. If you use a standard refractometer, I'd double-check the calibration. Mine has sometimes been considerably off if I don't adjust every once in a while. Overall, your tank looks spot-on to me. Keep up with the water changes (they DO make a difference), and maybe get some LPS to tide you over this SPS hurdle. Best of luck!
 

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