Velvet?
- Thread starter AKreuzer
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Uncle99
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You may be correct, Velvet kills very fast, infects the gills directly, if is been more than 2 days, velvet should have killed.
To me I see some ick, famous on blues and purples, an advanced case as well.
But I am long shot from being an expert.
I’d see what the fish medic guys say, it may be a combination of things.
@vetteguy53081 can you guys help?
@Jay Hemdal
To me I see some ick, famous on blues and purples, an advanced case as well.
But I am long shot from being an expert.
I’d see what the fish medic guys say, it may be a combination of things.
@vetteguy53081 can you guys help?
@Jay Hemdal
Last edited:
Uncle99
10K Club member
So a week?
What other symptoms? Any?
Swimming constantly into flow, is that happening?
Uncle99
10K Club member
Ok so two ish days.
I see ick, hopefully the disease gurus will chime in.
You’ll need to get them all out into QT and treat with copper.
Is that possible?
Powdered coat is typically velvet. Regardless an advanced state. Emediate need to remove and get copper power medication
Uncle99
10K Club member
That’s a lot of dots but I see different sizes and shapes.
Better pic, you may be right on the money, pics are a bit fuzzy on my end.
No breathing problems whatsoever?
Is that correct?
Everyone eats?
Jekyl
GSP is the devil and clowns are bad pets
Current Quarantine Protocol
2023 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before...
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45 Day Fallow periods
I've been doing some research into the "76 day fallow period". I never heard of that prior to coming to Reef2Reef this past summer. I had always used 32 days as the maximum time for a tomont to remain viable under tropical conditions, and then I would round up to 45 days to help ensure that...
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These are the recommended course of action for this case. This will be necessary for all fish to be safe.
vetteguy53081
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These are mucus cones and ich mixed and a couple of your fish are susceptible to this. Treatment will be in a separate tank using Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.Please see photos. Not sure if anyone can confirm it's velvet? Left on Friday and everyone looked happy and healthy today when I returned this is what they look like.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with other occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
Jay Hemdal
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If the fish are still feeding and not breathing fast, this is marine ich, Cryptocaryon, 100%
It is possible for fish to have combined infections, but ich looks like this when it reaches the moderate/heavy level of infection. At some point in the near future, this is going to be fatal to the first fish infected, you’ll need to work fast.
You’ll need to set up a treatment tank with no invertebrates, but with a stable biofilter (you might be able to borrow media from your display tank). Then, you’ll need to treat all of the fish with either coppersafe or hyposalinity. Tough job, I know!
It is possible for fish to have combined infections, but ich looks like this when it reaches the moderate/heavy level of infection. At some point in the near future, this is going to be fatal to the first fish infected, you’ll need to work fast.
You’ll need to set up a treatment tank with no invertebrates, but with a stable biofilter (you might be able to borrow media from your display tank). Then, you’ll need to treat all of the fish with either coppersafe or hyposalinity. Tough job, I know!
OP
OP
AKreuzer
Community Member
Following up from the frantic posting.
1. THANK YOU ALL. coming home from a weekend to the pictures above is not fun and very stressful. Your support along with that of local refers and my LFS we were able to get the below results.
So far....we have lost 2 fish and I am going to say we really only lost 1 from this.
The one fish was a brown banded sleeper goby. He was huge in the scheme of things but over the last 2 months he really thinned out and had been hanging on, still eating, just looked thin. well while removing aquascape to remove the other fish we find him dead. Maybe he died earlier in the weekend but he wasnt a huge surprise
The other death was our Blonde Naso Tange....he died after the second dip ill share more in a second.
Process of what we did.
A friend and local reefer borugh over several totes heaters air stones etc. and we pulled all the fish out and put them in a 5 gallon bucket. We kept them in there for 20min with 4 gallons of fresh ro/di 1.026 water and 80ml of hydrogen peroxide.
After 20min we pulled them and put them in a tote with ~20g of fresh ro/di 1.026 water and added Prime. they stayed there for 36 hours and then we moved them to a new tote entirely clean setup, new heater/air stone/etc. and they stayed in the second tote for another 36 hours.
we repeated this whole process 1 more time....1 more dip in hydrogen peroxide followed by 2 more stints in totes. This is where after the second dip the Naso had died. I was prepping to move them to the 2nd tote for their final step and he was floating. The only change on the second 2 totes is I added General Cure as an additional treatment to maybe get them over the hump.
Last Saturday I then moved them into a 40g breeder where they have been since. They get nori each morning and then get fed in the evening a small portion of LRS Reef Frenzy.... every 48 hours i syphon out any solids and do a 25% water change while still adding prime.
EVERYONE EXCEPT THE 2 CASUALTIES LOOK HEALTHY! no spot no odd marks or anything. I FEEL BLESSED!
during this whole process in the DT I learned my UV Steralzer had a burned out bulb...i have since replaced it and slowed the flow through it to try and kill anything that may be living in the water column.
so for the crew here and maybe specifically @Jay Hemdal how long do i keep them in the 40g?...anything you think i should be doing different?
1. THANK YOU ALL. coming home from a weekend to the pictures above is not fun and very stressful. Your support along with that of local refers and my LFS we were able to get the below results.
So far....we have lost 2 fish and I am going to say we really only lost 1 from this.
The one fish was a brown banded sleeper goby. He was huge in the scheme of things but over the last 2 months he really thinned out and had been hanging on, still eating, just looked thin. well while removing aquascape to remove the other fish we find him dead. Maybe he died earlier in the weekend but he wasnt a huge surprise
The other death was our Blonde Naso Tange....he died after the second dip ill share more in a second.
Process of what we did.
A friend and local reefer borugh over several totes heaters air stones etc. and we pulled all the fish out and put them in a 5 gallon bucket. We kept them in there for 20min with 4 gallons of fresh ro/di 1.026 water and 80ml of hydrogen peroxide.
After 20min we pulled them and put them in a tote with ~20g of fresh ro/di 1.026 water and added Prime. they stayed there for 36 hours and then we moved them to a new tote entirely clean setup, new heater/air stone/etc. and they stayed in the second tote for another 36 hours.
we repeated this whole process 1 more time....1 more dip in hydrogen peroxide followed by 2 more stints in totes. This is where after the second dip the Naso had died. I was prepping to move them to the 2nd tote for their final step and he was floating. The only change on the second 2 totes is I added General Cure as an additional treatment to maybe get them over the hump.
Last Saturday I then moved them into a 40g breeder where they have been since. They get nori each morning and then get fed in the evening a small portion of LRS Reef Frenzy.... every 48 hours i syphon out any solids and do a 25% water change while still adding prime.
EVERYONE EXCEPT THE 2 CASUALTIES LOOK HEALTHY! no spot no odd marks or anything. I FEEL BLESSED!
during this whole process in the DT I learned my UV Steralzer had a burned out bulb...i have since replaced it and slowed the flow through it to try and kill anything that may be living in the water column.
so for the crew here and maybe specifically @Jay Hemdal how long do i keep them in the 40g?...anything you think i should be doing different?
Jay Hemdal
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That is called "hybrid TTM", and it works for ich, so that pretty much confirms that's what your fish had. The problem with TTM is that you now can't just put the fish back into the tank, they'll just get reinfected. They need to stay out of the previous tank for 60 days.
Jay
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