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Looks good! sorry for being a newb but when looking online at the UV I didn’t see the white/barb connection you have? Is that something you purchased separately?You can just pick up 3/4” or 1” tubing from Lowe’s nothing special needed. Hose clamps can be the plastic type of metal type since it won’t be in contact with the actual water.
90 seems like a LOT for a 125 / 30. I was looking at the 55 w or possibly the 25 w. I do not want to add any unnecessary heat to the tank. I'm in Florida, so every degree counts.Im using lifegard. Its been great. I have the same size tank as you and i got a 90 watt lifegard i run off my return pump which is pushing about 900 gph through the uv. No more dinos. Would i buy another uv? Nope im happy with this one. Hard plumbing is easy but you can use soft pipes if needed.
What flow rate are you targeting?90 seems like a LOT for a 125 / 30. I was looking at the 55 w or possibly the 25 w. I do not want to add any unnecessary heat to the tank. I'm in Florida, so every degree counts.
Not entirely sure yet. I'll be running a 125 and a 30 sump with a coast to coast bean animal overflow. The UV will be plumbed to my return. I'll have to play around with the flow rate when I get it going. I'll be hooking up a Sicce SDC 9.0, which is rated for 1000 to 2500 gph. Considering the dual returns and the UV will both be running off of the same lines, the pump needs to be a good one.What flow rate are you targeting?
Your sure its dinos? Id hate to see you buy a uv for cyano. Oh forget it wrong thread sorry.Not entirely sure yet. I'll be running a 125 and a 30 sump with a coast to coast bean animal overflow. The UV will be plumbed to my return. I'll have to play around with the flow rate when I get it going. I'll be hooking up a Sicce SDC 9.0, which is rated for 1000 to 2500 gph. Considering the dual returns and the UV will both be running off of the same lines, the pump needs to be a good one.
LOL - all good... I have dinos in my existing 90, too. LOLYour sure its dinos? Id hate to see you buy a uv for cyano. Oh forget it wrong thread sorry.
Looking to purchase a UV unit to combat dinos, I have a 125 gallon with 30 gallon sump. Wondering what size LifeGard UV to purchase and what pump to purchase to go with it. Wondering if I can use soft tubing as I am not experienced at all with hard plumbing. or maybe a Aqua UV brand as well. My head keeps spinning with all the brands out and sizes. thanks all for the help
The faster the better as they are easily killed with uv ime. I have a 90w uv and killed mine with 900gph using my return pump.I have a lifeguard 90w on the way. The max gph is 2800. What would be the minimum gph - trying to kills dinos. 233g tank, 40g sump. Not sure what turnover rate to target. Can I get away with a 1000 or 1500gph and be successful?
Ok cool, thanks for that. I can get a 1200-1500 easily for a descent price. The 2400+ are a bit pricey.The faster the better as they are easily killed with uv ime. I have a 90w uv and killed mine with 900gph using my return pump.
To help illustrate my idea of a closed loop I made a pic haha. Maybe I'm foolish in thinking it can work this way?I want to install this in my DT as a closed-loop, but I do not want a pump in the DT. Is there any way to make that happen? I was thinking I could have two U hooks in the water connected to tubing with the pump on the floor - basically make it pull the water. If I prime the intake tube wouldn't that cause enough suction to not need the pump in the DT?
My other thought was in the return section of sump to drain section but I heard that can cause issues too with 2500gph flowing.
Another option is in-line with the return which will be a pain to re-do the plumbing. I also will have a hard time finding a spot where to mount it,
So, what happens if you have a power outage while you are away... The pump needs to be reprinted and runs dry.To help illustrate my idea of a closed loop I made a pic haha. Maybe I'm foolish in thinking it can work this way?
View attachment 1926825
Blue = uv
Purple = pump
Plumbing = yellow
If I were to prime the pipes (yellow) with water then start the pump (purple) in a pull from uv (blue) then push to display (exit on top of pump), would this work? Assuming the yellow pipes are both below the water line
That would be no different than the typical canister filter piping system. You just have to make sure the pickup/input side of the plumbing sits well below the water line, including how low it goes during water changes.To help illustrate my idea of a closed loop I made a pic haha. Maybe I'm foolish in thinking it can work this way?
View attachment 1926825
Blue = uv
Purple = pump
Plumbing = yellow
If I were to prime the pipes (yellow) with water then start the pump (purple) in a pull from uv (blue) then push to display (exit on top of pump), would this work? Assuming the yellow pipes are both below the water line
Wouldn't that only happen if the water level goes below the intake pipe? I plan to run it deeper down in the water than depicted. But good info regardless - I'll place a fire alarm near this. I'll have some automation around that if it goes off.So, what happens if you have a power outage while you are away... The pump needs to be reprinted and runs dry.
That could burn your house down.
Not saying it will happen... But it has happened.
Ok, then is sounds like this would work great! If I make U-hooks big enough to drop down let's say near the bottom of the tank it should never lose prime unless the waterline breaks it or if there is a major leak. I'll put an intake guard on it so it doesn't suck up any inhabitants. I have a leak detector kit so I can make sure to protect myself in case of an external leak. But even if I had a pump in the display I'd have the same concern. I also do awc so the water level doesn't change unless I'm draining it. And at that point I know to turn it off.That would be no different than the typical canister filter piping system. You just have to make sure the pickup/input side of the plumbing sits well below the water line, including how low it goes during water changes.
Once primed, the system would only lose prime if there's a break, then you have a bigger mess anyway!
This thread is long and I admittedly have not read through it all. What size tank are you UV-ing?Wouldn't that only happen if the water level goes below the intake pipe? I plan to run it deeper down in the water than depicted. But good info regardless - I'll place a fire alarm near this. I'll have some automation around that if it goes off.
Ok, then is sounds like this would work great! If I make U-hooks big enough to drop down let's say near the bottom of the tank it should never lose prime unless the waterline breaks it or if there is a major leak. I'll put an intake guard on it so it doesn't suck up any inhabitants. I have a leak detector kit so I can make sure to protect myself in case of an external leak. But even if I had a pump in the display I'd have the same concern. I also do awc so the water level doesn't change unless I'm draining it. And at that point I know to turn it off.
Am I ok to assume if it's pushing out 2500gph out the top it's also taking in 2500gph through the UV?