UV options

Court_Appointed_Hypeman

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I have had a long battle with Ostreopsis dinos, I blow them off everynight bit they still come back in pretty good numbers.

I am using. 24W green killing machine, and it worked before with some other unidentified dinos I got a few months into this tank, but I don't think it's cutting it. I recently got a replacement bulb just to see, and I am getting the same results.

I have a 75g tank with ~ 90 gallons water including the sump.

What is a larger UV that I can push more water through, that is a little more affordable?
 

theMeat

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Is the quartz/glass sleeve dirty?
A uv will only sterilize what’s in the water column, and only a part of that goes through the sterilizer. Would sooner look to add flow
 

theMeat

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For a green killing machine, replacing the bulb is the entire UV housing. Leaving only the pump
The bulb goes into a quart sleeve which separates the bulb from water. Bulb/electric inside sleeve, water outside sleeve. It can get dirty or cloudy. Especially if there’s air in there
 
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theMeat

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Would think 24 watt on a 75g is more than enough. Maybe the pump needs cleaning?
 
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Court_Appointed_Hypeman

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Would think 24 watt on a 75g is more than enough. Maybe the pump needs cleaning?
I will give it a shot, it did work before for a less suseptible dino.

I have always thought the floe should be faster, but I keep seeing posts saying the flow needs to be slower for ostreopsis. That's incorrect info right? Faster to turn over tank water is better since it's just a single cell organism correct?
 

theMeat

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I will give it a shot, it did work before for a less suseptible dino.

I have always thought the floe should be faster, but I keep seeing posts saying the flow needs to be slower for ostreopsis. That's incorrect info right? Faster to turn over tank water is better since it's just a single cell organism correct?
Never heard Dino needs slower flow. For algae or bacteria with a 25 watt bulb would shoot for 500-700 gph. Maybe go for the lower end of that if in fact Dino needs slower. But I suspect the problem is your pump has slowed down, as pumps do
 
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Never heard Dino needs slower flow. For algae or bacteria with a 25 watt bulb would shoot for 500-700 gph. Maybe go for the lower end of that if in fact Dino needs slower. But I suspect the problem is your pump has slowed down, as pumps do

That makes sense to me, but if you google "ostreopsis uv" most of those posts have someone who states it needs to be slower. I have no idea what the default pump actually runs at. I am going to citric acid bath it tonight, and run it quick to see how long it takes to move a gallon. The rate I see it at now of I pull it out of the water enough to see the flow, I would think it would fill a 5 gallon bucket in almost 2 minutes. I swore it used to be faster so I bet you are right on the money.
 

theMeat

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Post up your findings.
It’s amazing how many reef inquiries on Google lead you right back here to r2r.
Fwiw when I said in my first post “add more flow” to help combat the Dino, what I meant was more flow in tank, wavemakers, whatever
 
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Post up your findings.
It’s amazing how many reef inquiries on Google lead you right back here to r2r.
Fwiw when I said in my first post “add more flow” to help combat the Dino, what I meant was more flow in tank, wavemakers, whatever
I didn't make that connection, but happened to do just that last night!

My scape is probably not the greatest for dead spaces. I have 2 rocks with tunnels in tge back left and back right corner, and I just realized I should baste them to keep detritus out. I then was thinking, my jebao crossflow 120s have been at 35% for years, what it I crank them? I thought it would be too much for the fish, and it wad certainly too much for my duncan and other LPS when they wete frags, but I cranked it to 90% and it sent crap flying everywhere, but the sand and coral polyps aren't in distress, the fish come into the flow no problem, so this might just be how I run my tank now.

I assume I will see less dino powder, less globby strings, but a few super long ones. I will see the results when I get home from work.

Edit: just to add, my jebaos would suck in air 10 inches down from the water the way they were pointed before when I tried turning them up back whe. The tank was new, and throw water out, but now that they are only 7" below the water I have them pointing towards the surface, and this seems to have stopped the whirlpools they make from getting long enough to shoot bubbles through the tank. It could just be they need some cleaning too though, it's been a few months.
 

theMeat

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If you haven’t cleaned your jeboas in a while you’ll be amazed at how much better they will work
 

JustJoan

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Are you positive you have ostreopsis? Did you scope your tank? You should really go to Macks reef dinoflagellate support group on facebook. They are dino experts.
 
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Yeah I took some microscope video and posted an ID thread. It looks like a different species than what is usually posted, but other than looking different it had all the traits. Same shape and movement and cyst appearance, but cell looked looked different to me, almost looks like it had 2 eyes.

The macro characteristics mostly fit the description, but the strings it makes and mucus seem a little different. It also seems to be able to regroup under very very low light. Just ambient light from a hallway is enough for it to glob together when blowing off the rocks, I have to do it in the near complete dark to stop it from all getting stuck again before hitting the filter. And in darkness, it takes a couple days for it to release itself. It showed up in my fuge which was a much more massive growth due to lights being so strong and on for 16 hours, but when I turned off the lights, it had no change 30 hours in, but disappeared by 55ish hours.

So it's closest to ostreopsis, but, it's slightly different.


I didn't bring up any of my concerns about the micro differences as they know what they are doing
 
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How’d you make out with pump cleaning?
Noticeable increase in flow, but we went camping this weekend so missing an entire day of dosing nutrients and dusting off the dinos has been a setback. I ended up ordering Dr Tim's dino treatment that is a bottle of refresh and waste away, with dosing instructions for dealing with dinos.

I can't start the dino treatment until I am available to watch the tank for a few days, so we will see with the dustoff from last night what it looks like tonight, if it's back to where it was a couple days ago I may just hold off on all the bacteria additions.
 

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