Triton Method

Brian Mountain

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Anyone out there using the Triton Method, either fully or a hybrid? Thoughts? I'm running into issues with normal home test results and can't figure anything out. Ordered a kit and sending off, but wondering if anyone has experience.
 

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I'm planning on running the triton method when I get my system running. It'll probably be late this year. What are the problems you're running into?
 
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Brian Mountain

Brian Mountain

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I have all the normal test kits and everything is stable and within normal range, even if take water sample to LFS. Have good lights, flow, quality RODI, blah blah blah, but still have issues with coral (even the “east hardy” stuff) and fish. I’m thinking I’m getting some kind of trace element that’s way out of wack from something.
Sent my first sample off and should get results by mid week. Fingers crossed.
 

easternreefer

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check your pumps/magnets for cracks. Pest treatments? maybe something is getting into your tank via the air? just thinking out loud. hope you figure it out..
what lights?
 

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What specifically is going on with your coral? What test kits are you using (API, Salifert, RedSea)? Trace elements are seldom the root cause of "Issues". What are you using to test specific gravity? What are you test readings for salinity, calcium, alkalinity? Have you inspected for pests?
 
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Brian Mountain

Brian Mountain

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Using RedSea Test kits, make own RODI and have made sure filters/resin changed, using hand held refractometer for SG/salinity.
Salinity staying at 1.024
Temp 76
pH 8.3
Alkalinity 9
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
Calcium 400
Magnesium 1200

Coral look ok for day or 2 then just shrivel up and die or never open up and look good as did in store
fish vary, but always slowly acclimate, and then all seem to eat fine, don't appear to be bullied, last 1-2 weeks and then die. No apparent disease noted (spots, scrapes, cloudiness, etc)
Lights on the 120 are Ocean Revive T247. on for 7 hours
Light on the 13.5 are Kessil A80 on 7 hours
just started refugium back and appears to be doing well. Have a ESHOPS Curve LED light on it.

Current stock in 120 is 2 ocillarus, 1 foxface, 3 damsels(i know i know....they suck and can't get them out....was first fish i got) and some clean up crew.
Kenya tree is actually doing well and just put in recently

Current stock in 13.5 is a yellow clown goby and a tiger goby and some clean up crew. Have a little piece of pulsing xenia in there that is doing well, which was just recently added.

Thanks for all the input...
 

BlueDevil

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My thoughts aren't directly pertinent to the triton method but I thought I'd share them in case they somehow were tied to the issues you've been having. Since I set my tank up a year and a half back, I always maintained it as a ULNS. All my corals would go through the same downward spiral that you describe - colored up the day I added them to the tank, and over time gradually lost all color.

Over the past coupe of months, I have been keeping an eye on my nutrient levels, especially NO3, and maintaining it between 2-3ppm. PO4 is usually trace. Since I started this, my tank has done a complete 180. Colors are coming back in, and new corals that I have added have not any of their color. I am also seeing increased PE and noticeable growth as well.

Now ... this might just all be nothing more than a coincidence, but I like to think the nutrients played a part in the turnaround. I am not sure if the triton method by design is meant to be run as a ULNS or not. If it is, you can ignore everything I said :)

One other thing to watch for is your Alk level. I know that higher Alk levels, combined with ULNS can often lead to burnt tips on corals. It is suggested that Alk be maintained between 7-8 in a ULNS.

What puzzles me is the loss of fish as well. That certainly points to something in the water that is not right.

Just my two cents...
 
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Brian Mountain

Brian Mountain

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My thoughts aren't directly pertinent to the triton method but I thought I'd share them in case they somehow were tied to the issues you've been having. Since I set my tank up a year and a half back, I always maintained it as a ULNS. All my corals would go through the same downward spiral that you describe - colored up the day I added them to the tank, and over time gradually lost all color.

Over the past coupe of months, I have been keeping an eye on my nutrient levels, especially NO3, and maintaining it between 2-3ppm. PO4 is usually trace. Since I started this, my tank has done a complete 180. Colors are coming back in, and new corals that I have added have not any of their color. I am also seeing increased PE and noticeable growth as well.

Now ... this might just all be nothing more than a coincidence, but I like to think the nutrients played a part in the turnaround. I am not sure if the triton method by design is meant to be run as a ULNS or not. If it is, you can ignore everything I said :)

One other thing to watch for is your Alk level. I know that higher Alk levels, combined with ULNS can often lead to burnt tips on corals. It is suggested that Alk be maintained between 7-8 in a ULNS.

What puzzles me is the loss of fish as well. That certainly points to something in the water that is not right.

Just my two cents...
Thanks for the input! Has me stumped for sure. I'll update with the results when I get them back.
 

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Well, I don't see anything else other than the ULNS theory.
 
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Brian Mountain

Brian Mountain

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So here are the pics of the results and their analysis. Would love to hear everyone's thoughts

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