Trickman2's - 280 Gallon Upgrade

[andrewkw]

Looks great! Love the crosshatches.

 

[McPuff]

The fish look great.

Are you building/adding more of the LED cannons to the canopy?

 

[Trickman2]

The fish look great.

Are you building/adding more of the LED cannons to the canopy?

The light fixture is currently an Aquatic Life - 61" HYBRID T5HO 4X80W FIXTURE
The Big thing added this time was the frame/wall mount for the top. I wanted the light to look clean and yet allow for easy adjustment.

Not sure what lights I am going to add next. The cannon I picked up for cheap. If I find another cheap cannon locally why not but thinking of adding a couple of Kessils eventually.

 

[Trickman2]

05-09-2019 - Removed the Dolphin pump and Flow sensor. After my Dolphin pumps bearing gave way...I called the company and once again paid for shipping costs. 25 dollars to get the motor replaced. It had been less than a year and the company continues to blame the consumer for product problems. According to the flow sensor the pump was only producing 1100 GPH. It had been a huge huge headache the whole time and wasn't super loud but not silent. It was time to move on and the new Vectra's just came out. The Vectra is silent. The Neptune flow sensor was removed as I believe it costs me a lot of flow and was bulky. I might have left it in if it wasn't for those dang BSSP threading and making me redo all my plumbing. Replumbed everything and installed an Ecotech Marine Vectra L2. Seems to be doing the job just fine...seems to be close to the ampmasters flow but probably a little less. Pardon the mess but here it is installed

 

[McPuff]

Might want to check your pump feed lines... there is a rule about how long the straight section must be after a curve. If it's not sufficient you can get cavitation in your pump which would be bad. Based on the picture I can't tell, but it's worth another look to be sure.

 

[McPuff]

Might want to check your pump feed lines... there is a rule about how long the straight section must be after a curve. If it's not sufficient you can get cavitation in your pump which would be bad. Based on the picture I can't tell, but it's worth another look to be sure.

 

[Trickman2]

Might want to check your pump feed lines... there is a rule about how long the straight section must be after a curve. If it's not sufficient you can get cavitation in your pump which would be bad. Based on the picture I can't tell, but it's worth another look to be sure.

Interesting do you have a source on the rule?

 

[McPuff]

Typically pump manufacturers put stipulations like there must be "X" amount of straight pipe directly off the input before you can have an elbow... Perhaps Ecotech has some recommendations for their pumps? I'm not sure there... The reason behind this is any restrictions or changes to the diameter of input can affect the pressure of the liquid within. Cavitation happens when the pressure is low around the impeller and gas comes out of solution. The length "X" ensures that the pressure will remain constant going into the pump/impeller.

 

[Trickman2]

Interesting, going to be hard to tell. The inlet is 1.5 and outlet is 1.25 on this pump. Wonder if they did this to reduce cavitation problems. Only have so much space. But I guess I might be able to turn it sideways without to much rework. Would have to do some measurements. Have to think about it a little more.

 

[McPuff]

Ok, I found the information I was looking for. Came from "UNCLEOF6" a couple years ago. Dude knows his stuff.

"The recommended length of straight full size pipe devoid of any restrictions immediately upstream from the pump suction connection is 10 x pipe diameter. This allows the turbulence due to 45s, 90s, and sweeps to calm down before the water enters the volute . Restrictions also include valves and other fittings with an internal diameter less than the pump inlet diameter. This last part affects friction loss.

Another factor influencing cavatation is the length of the suction line and friction loss in the intake plumbing system reducing the suction head pressure available below the suction head pressure required. This is also a cause for cavitation; and in your second post, you indicate a 30" approach to the pump. That is a lot for a small pump. This second condition can be helped by increasing the depth of your return section and/or upszing the suction line."

You could probably keep it the way it is and see how things go. If you start seeing microbubbles coming out of the return then you know the cause will be cavitation (unless the pump creates a vortex, sucking in air). At that point you'd want to change up the plumbing.

You could be right about the 1.5" inlet vs 1.25" outlet. I'm not well-enough versed in fluid dynamics to know for sure. :0) Didn't mean to cause any worry... just thought of it as a precaution when I saw the pic.

 

[Trickman2]

Interesting as always but I don't seem to be getting any air bubbles. I will do some measurements and see if I could pull off turning it sideways. It's 8.5 inches long.

10x is a lot...that would be 15 inches.

Lol, you're making me think now . I have to be careful with thinking that hard...I could hurt myself ;Facepalm. The bulkhead is threaded on both sides. I could easily flip it around giving me 3 extra inches or so. Seems like it could be done, although I am not home right now to take measurements.

Ok, I found the information I was looking for. Came from "UNCLEOF6" a couple years ago. Dude knows his stuff.

"The recommended length of straight full size pipe devoid of any restrictions immediately upstream from the pump suction connection is 10 x pipe diameter. This allows the turbulence due to 45s, 90s, and sweeps to calm down before the water enters the volute . Restrictions also include valves and other fittings with an internal diameter less than the pump inlet diameter. This last part affects friction loss.

Another factor influencing cavatation is the length of the suction line and friction loss in the intake plumbing system reducing the suction head pressure available below the suction head pressure required. This is also a cause for cavitation; and in your second post, you indicate a 30" approach to the pump. That is a lot for a small pump. This second condition can be helped by increasing the depth of your return section and/or upszing the suction line."

You could probably keep it the way it is and see how things go. If you start seeing microbubbles coming out of the return then you know the cause will be cavitation (unless the pump creates a vortex, sucking in air). At that point you'd want to change up the plumbing.

You could be right about the 1.5" inlet vs 1.25" outlet. I'm not well-enough versed in fluid dynamics to know for sure. :0) Didn't mean to cause any worry... just thought of it as a precaution when I saw the pic.

 

[Trickman2]

05-16-19 So far happy with my new pump. Going start using Scripps water. Picked up a 275 gallon IBC tote and two large 50 gallon containers to get water from Scripps aquarium in San Diego. Which is free.

 

[Trickman2]

Some updates coming. Been slacking off on this thread.
Big things coming...a bunch of fish in QT now. 6-7-19 I added some fish to my QT. 4x in my Qt and one that my fish guy is Qting for me due to it's size.

 

[Trickman2]

6-30-2019 -
Big update- have been QTing four fish...3 where ready to go in yesterday. So without further ado...
Achilles tang
Chevron Tang
And a orange shoulder tang

 

[Trickman2]

 

[Trickman2]

 

[Trickman2]

 

[Trickman2]

 

[Tuffloud1]

Finally finished up my canopy

Awesome light mount!

Where did you get the parts to make that? What is the weight capacity of the wall tracks?

 

[SkiCatTX]

Awesome!

 

[vikinglord13]

Nice! Tangs are a favorite of mine